1st Gen Haltech ECU Discussion

Yea I have an innovate one in the clock spot, but I have to move my head everywhere I wanna read what it's saying. Same feeling about the A-pillar location, don't wanna loose my RAM phone mount that I have there currently.
What about a spot on the top of the steering column.

 

That's not bad, have to see how low profile I can make one I guess. Maybe I'll use the smaller 1" screens for that instead. I have been using the larger screens on the gauge pods thusfar.

I actually have 3d printed standard 2" gauge pod faces for these now, this pic was taken during a mockup of the electronics, but it helps so you can see the size of the displays and the boards for them


The screens I use in the pods could work on top of the column too but you'd fit less of them and they're taller so they obstruct a bit more of the cluster.

 

Ya if you're only trying to display 1 parameter, a smaller 1in screen could work good.
What board and electronics are you using for those? Looks like a homebrew setup?

 

Totally homebrew, using Trey's code for Haltech CAN reading/displaying with an Arduino Nano, MCP2515 CAN board, and some SPI displays. The rest is just some 3D modeling to figure out what I like and don't like in the cab for positions haha.

Here's his GitHub page for it...
https://github.com/treyus30/HT-101CBR

 

Oh sweet.
Got any pics of how you packaged all of the electronics back there? Do you need 1 arduino per gauge?

 

I probably have a picture of the electronics somewhere. You only need one Arduino Nano/CAN controller for up to six gauge screens.

 

Just putting this out there because it was kind of the direction I was headed before getting pulled away from it... The bezel around the OEM gauge cluster is quite loose and you can not only tuck cabling in there to route & conceal it, but it could be easy to 3D print a display housing that clips to it and just have a row of them on the bottom of the cluster

 

Hmm well I'll have to look into that when I have some time. Thanks @treyus30 for putting that together.
I thinking keeping the gauges as close to the existing cluster would be the best placement, so I like your idea of having a row of them along the bottom. Shouldn't be too intrusive with the smaller 1in display.

 

I was happy with my guage down here in front of the transfer case shifter. When I get around to replacing it ill keep it in this location

 

FYI. The stock engine coolant temp sensor on the 5VZ (

$29 89422-35010 Water Temperature Sensor

89422-35010) is the same sensor used on the Toyota 1FZ-FE engine, which has a calibration file preloaded in NSP. There was a 3 degree difference in temp after I "recalibrated" my sensor. Not sure if this has already been shared.

 

lol jk
eh, margin of error, but good to know

 

Yup, I initially had the gabe calibration loaded. LOL

 

The threads on the 5VZ intake manifold, and most toyotas really for the temp sensor are the same for an LS engine as well. I used a AC Delco temp sender and loaded that config from haltech instead.

 

I wonder what mine reads compared to the 1FZ-FE since we left my stock sensor alone

 

*sigh*
Nothing like swapping knock sensors to require $50 in new gaskets

Tried getting away with some gasket maker on the intake manifold gasket around the coolant chamber and the bitch just leaks like crazy when up to temp

 

Did you go back with OEM sensors, or a different style?

 

Bosch wideband. Haven't gotten to calibrate them yet though for knock control, just got re-registered

 

Nice. Installing them in the stock location?

 

Yep, they're installed with the Toyota studs. Have to go back in though after the new gaskets come in :/

 

Don't forget to drain the engine gooch or it'll rust up pretty bad and eventually spill onto the timing belt components