4th gen Oil Change

Is everyone using

$52 0w20 oil Toyota/ exxon mobil Case of 6 Quarts Full Synthetic TGMO SN 0W-20 Oil

0w20 oil weight? I feel like it's too thin like water and not going to lubricate everything properly. I know manufacturers have moved to that weight for better fuel mileage. Thoughts?

 

That is what I use in all 4 of my rides.

 

due to higher temperatures and higher RPM you need

$52 0w20 oil Toyota/ exxon mobil Case of 6 Quarts Full Synthetic TGMO SN 0W-20 Oil

0w20 oil. engines run differently today. if you would put in an oil from the 1970's the engines would blow a crankshaft or a rod.

 

The people who designed the engine disagree.

 

There are other engines that have been around for a long time. You look in say an older owners manual it will call for a thicker oil. The same engine in the same vehicle just a few model years newer, and the oil they recommend is now thinner.

You know how many vehicles used to have a range of temperatures and which weight oil to use?

Now many don't show any, they just list 1 oil weight as if that's the best and only option.

 

I wanted to bring up that what seems to be missing from the discussion is oil filter torque. It seems to vary from filter to filter — the one I got from Toyota the other day says 3/4 turn after gasket contact — but the couple videos I’ve watched so far seem to have people being a bit cavalier about it and just making stuff up.

It pays to get it right. A filter not tight enough can come loose and blow all the oil out of your engine in a few seconds. One too tight can be really difficult to remove later or can deform the seal, causing leaks.

This may be common knowledge amongst some of us old hands, but the newbies around here might not know it and we’d be doing a disservice to them by not bringing it up.

 

I saw a video the other day where he just hand tightened the filter. I hand tighten, then the filter wrench for another 1/4 turn.

 

“Hand tight” means different things to different people. Like, I’ve found that most of the time, I haven’t got the hand strength to crank down an oil filter quite to spec, especially when the angle isn’t great. Except on days when I do. It depends. I can’t depend on “it depends.” To be consistent, it’s gotta be something I can quantitatively measure. Torque, degrees, number of turns, something more real.

I figure since it works for you, you’re probably in the range, which is good. Thing is, if you aren’t, your story could become tragic. Nobody wants that. The tragedy of somebody having to pony up for a new engine because they took a crack at changing their own oil and guesstimated the filter tightness is precisely what I want to avoid.

 

I didnt find any maintance besides oil. I watched some youtube and created a chart. This is for normal driving, for offroad and towing the oil change should be 5k instead of 10k and i assume that applies for the rest of the things. Am i missing anything here? this is just a rough chart for now. Got this list for thecarcarenut guy from youtube:

1. pcv valve (positive crank case ventilation valve) maybe after 100k miles ( turbo 40k-60k)
- Change the plugs at 40k, then next 40k change the plugs and pcv valve
2. Change WS Fluid every 60k miles (dont flush, just drain and refill). HYBRID 60k-90k. If hybrid has e-TRANSAXLE FLUID TE fluid clear color (not red), every 60k very thin fluid
3. Inverter coolant pink 50k miles
4. Hybrid battery fans, clean them, do not block them
5. E-transaxle: TE fluid, every 60k miles

 

I'm just scratching my head about your comment about a spark plug change being "difficult" with this truck. It looks to me like it's an easy 30-45-minute task—much easier than the previous generation. Maybe I need to take a second look.

 

Ah, majority info i got is from youtube .

**EDIT**
this dude has good info. im not sure if tacoma and hybrid have this (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j2gmE_zidjQ) i havent looked yet

 

There's no power steering fluid to change. It's electric.

The spark plug interval, according to the maintenance schedule, is 40k. I don't know why it'd be difficult. There's just four, and they're accessible right from the top of the head after you disconnect and remove the coils.

I'm not sure why rear brakes would be harder than the fronts. It's front and rear disc; there's no shoes or the associated springs, arms, and adjusters to contend with. I haven't done them on this truck yet, but most other cars I've done them on, the rears are easier. Everything is smaller and not so tight. I don't know how we're going to deal with the electric parking brake yet, but many cars nowadays have a motor that turns a jackscrew attached to the piston. You can use a scantool to back it off. Often, if you don't have a scantool like most of us home gamers, you can get away with popping the motor off, winding the jackscrew back by hand, then backing the piston off as you normally would. Last couple times I did it, it added about five minutes to the job. I also take issue to the interval. Unless you're driving like a complete toolshed or towing/hauling all the time, 10k or even 20k is way too short for a set to last. I'd inspect and lubricate them annually and expect to replace them every 30k or so.

 

awesome, thank you. i just noticed that i dont have torgue listed...

**EDIT**
found some awesome map and trackers

 

Some of these mileages are so fantastically short. Are you using reputable sources? 3k OCI and 10k brakes? For real? My 24/7 track day Tacoma?

 

this is still rough draft, im adjusting as i go. Youtube is not really reputable sources

 

My 3rd gen brakes went for 110,000. I don't expect to see anything different with this gen.

 

If you want to run 0w30 or 5w30, it won’t hurt anything. The difference is only 1-3 cst at 100C, by comparison cold 0w20 vs warm 0w20 is like 40 cst.

I run HPL 0w30 in my 3rd gen to provide a little extra protection from fuel dilution.

 

I don't understand the point of the exercise. Why not use the Toyota maintenance schedule?? Or at least use that as a starting point and adjust it to YOUR preferences - like a more frequent oil change interval, etc.

It seems like you are re-inventing the wheel using wildly unreliable sources.

 

0w20 will be just fine and you'll have many miles and years of trouble free motoring. Keeping up on the oil changes is the biggest thing you can do.

Many of us will deviate from the manual and also have no issues. I run 0w20 in a 0w16 specified Camry and ran 5w30 in my old 3rd gen.

Run whatever you want (within reason) just change it "often"



There, that'll rile some of yous guys up

 

Here's a true story for you all. When I was in high school, back in the years '68-'72, I worked part-time in a welding/metal shop. It was owned & run by a guy with a 5th-grade education. He was very clever and great with his hands but lacked many other human skills. Someone told him that motor oil never really lost its ability to lubricate, so all one should do is simply change the filter and top it off. Of course, the advice he received neglected to mention thermal breakdown, contamination, and consumption of necessary additives. (His Ford Econovans never lasted very long.)
If there is a moral to this story it would be: "Be very skeptical of weird advice (and don't be super cheapo)". (I also remember when you could buy re-refined motor oil at most stores.)