El Taco Diablo... Mall Crawlin, now with LT for tall curbs

Made it a couple steps closer to being able to use the Plasma Cutter.

The new cart is just for the welder and cutter. The old cart will carry all the tools, consumables etc.



Now I also have a place for both my bottles too.

 

That's the 3rd time, or 4th, that I've done spindle gussets. I can't remember.

LOL

 

We're taking these spindles up a notch this time though.



Decided to let them cool before I finished the welds. I'll weld them in around the bolts holes. Those holes are going to get drilled out and tapped for M12.

I'm also going to plate the outer sides of the arms.

 

should be a bit harder to snap the bolts off after that.

 

Don’t tempt him!

 

how ‘bout welding this closed?

 

Is there a need for it? Don't think I've ever seen that as a fail point

 

can those ears or tabs flex, even a little?
Either way it would strengthen it after drilling out for bigger bolts

 

@JTFisherman just bent an ear on his

 

Don't know how tight it is to your CVs but it may not hurt to weld it closed. My axles are pretty tight there though.

Also probably only bent those ears because the bolts failed so may not need to reinforce.

 

The way I'm reinforcing those ears, that's not an area I'm worried about.

In fact I'm going to weld a step on to the LBJ to act as a stop so the force from the tie rod to the LBJ, opposing the force on the the spindle, doesn't shear the bolts.

The step will be between my fingers on the LBJ so it nests in between the ears.

 

Made a bit more progress.



So, the ears are clad on the top, and outside with 1/8 inch. That MORE than accounts for the 2mm that will be removed for the M12 Bolts.

 

Next I need to add 1/8 around the sides of the LBJ body, to account for the 2mm, and make the steps.

Then I'll drill the LBJ body bolt holes to 12mm.

And then drill the spindle holes to the appropriate size to tap them at 12mm.

I ordered bolts, for the blind holes (that normally have the locator sleave) with extra long shoulder. The shoulder will act as the locator, and add additional strength against the shear force.



The difference between the M10 and M12 isn't a lot. But the M12 is about 30% stronger.



M12 is also a legitimate size of a wheel lug. I'm pretty sure they won't be breaking this time.

 

Awesome work I was wondering what hardware you'd use

 

You might consider drilling for M12 helicoil size and then helicoiling it. Be stronger than straight threading the spindle, and retain that strength after removal and reinstall a few times.

 

Totally agree with helicoil being stronger. I actually did just that for the third member bolts on the 9.5 axle. I think I actually already have some M12 helicoil (that's what I used for the axle).

Couple reasons why I don't think I'll do that though. Next post.

 

Jesus Christ my phone is being stupid! Took forever to get that picture to load. LOL

The inner holes (the upper ones in the picture). I built those out over 4mm, but I still don't want to remove too much material, causing the area around the bolt hole to be too weak. If I drill for helicoil, I'll be removing more material than if I just tapped that hole to 12mm.

On the outer holes (the lower ones in the picture) the first 5mm (deep) in the hole will have to be drilled to true 12mm to allow for the shoulder of the bolt (that will be the locator) then threaded the rest of the way. I'm not sure how I would do that with helicoil.

 

Now, I think I'm at a stand still though. Wasn't thinking about the uni balls for when I'm welding on the LBJ bodies. I don't have a uni ball press tool. So I'm going to have to order one. That way I can remove the uni balls while I'm heating up the LBJ bodies. (And I don't have to worry about spatter getting in and on them).


I do have a ball joint service kit. I wonder if I could use the cups out of that, or something. I'll have to look at that.