Long Travel BS Thread

I'm cycling a hair under 17"

 

Noice. I'm currently at 12 and most of that is down.

Are you light duty pack?

 

You’ll get 18 or so with a frame notch but will be negative arch which wears out the leafs faster.

triangulation and bracing is never a bad thing on these trucks.

 

Same driveshaft on mine. Driveshaft will not limit you at 17-18 inches, unless you get some wild spring wrap that pulls the slip yoke out. But I doubt you'll do that. U-joints cycle those numbers just fine.

 

I honestly have no clue. Lol

 

These 4.5s make my 2.5s look small

 

that’s the guy she told you not to worry about

 

Time to change it up for 5s up front.

 

16.5-17” max. I cycled my old kit a ton and fixed a botched install on a buddies.

 

That’s not fully true. Driveshaft starts to become a concern at anything over 17” depending on geometry. I’m bumped/strapped at 18 and moved my axle back a bit over an inch. I have maybe 3/4” of slip left.

Assuming the original front hanger position was proper (it was a bolt on kit originally) it NEVER would have cycled over 17. But again. A LOT comes down to geometry. The driveshaft is at its shortest at full droop.

 

how was it botched?

 

That's true, I wasn't considering that leaf springs shorten the distance between the pinion and carrier that much at drop.

I've really only studied link geometry, but id assume that running a longer pack and moving the front eye further forward would lessen that effect? Similar to why I put my lower link mounts close to the u-joints just behind the carrier bearing. Makes for incredibly low slip yoke movement throughout the cycle.

 

I honestly think you would only worsen it with a longer pack. The amount they swing is a LOT! It’s just a leaf thing!

 

Yeah, that's a complex cookie to crack.
Even if you math'd it up like links, using the axle center to forward leaf eye as the "link" length to get your mounting points right for minimum yoke movement, now all of the sudden your 'link" starts changing length as you cycle.

 

East coast shop that doesn’t build desert trucks built it. Shock mounts and bumps were just way in the wrong spot and limiting him to like 13” of travel. After I rebuilt mine for the 2nd or 3rd time he asked me to help him with his. My only issue was playing in the rocks I bent the shackle hangars. Had to rebuild them/reinforce them a few times over the years. Between cycling mine a ton over rebuilds always trying to get more, and then doing his, if you’re getting more than 16.5-17” then you did something really special. Talking with Tim about it as well that’s what he designed it for. At that point his kit starts to have leaf separation. So notching the frame you can get an inch or so of up travel without too much additional wear on the springs. But they’re going negative at that point.

 

Mine was cracked at same spot not fully broken off. I used a bondo to seal it back up. No codes anymore..knock on wood

 

Hey all, long time lurker. I am currently getting parts together to LT the front of my truck and have an opportunity to buy some brand new(to me)/never used gen 1 fox bumps. 780 for 4 all 2x2. I have a buddy who wants 2 for the front of his truck and I want to other 2 for the same reason. Seems to good to be true though. Are there any problems with the gen 1 bumps? Thanks for the help.

 

Anyone that can help me out would be greatly appreciated.
So basically this morning it was 27° and I went to start my truck. Battery dead, brand new red top. Jumped it, died after 10 minutes of idling. X4. Went to my shop about 2.5 hours away and 70°, battery is dead. Truck needs a jump, and dies after 10 minutes again. Interior lights shut off, and truck just sounds like it has a fat cam in it, no mis fire. Brand new red top optima, was not giving me issues prior to this. Any idea if my alternator might be fucked? Or something I can do to diagnose it?

 

To add into the previous message, I have 3 p0500 codes, and one p0453 codes, that being the evap of course

 

Pretty much for sure the alternator. Check voltage with the truck running, should be around 14.6v I believe