Long Travel BS Thread

Gracias. I am done with the truck for today but I'll hook up a voltage meter tomorrow

 

Actually it should be putting out around 13.6 on charging voltage. On OEM alternator.

 

Broken evap may cause lopey idle. It's connected to the fuel system..imagine if the gas cap is left open..may or may not cause some noticeable symptoms. Did you fix the broken canister connection yet?

1. Check the battery voltage: The voltage should be around 12.6 volts.
2. Start the engine: Start the engine and rev it to about 1500 RPM.
3. Check the voltage again: If the alternator is working properly, the voltage should increase to around 13.8 to 14.4 volts
4. You can also test your alternator by removing the negative cable from the battery while the engine is running. If the car stalls, the alternator may be bad.

 

p0500 is one of your Speed Sensors. Make sure they are properly connected or that there isn't any wire damage

the P0453 is your EVAP Canister Pressure Switch Circuit, check that connector as well

 

Has anyone cut out the flimsy x crossmember in the back and replaced with tube? Thinking since the bed is about to come off and frame gets boxed I would attempt it. 1.75 .120.

Would be more of an esthetic but as long as it's at least as strong as factory would be ok.

Is there any harm in making the frame as rigid as possible? I know the flex will just move to softer areas but I don't want to create issues by trying to make it too solid.

 

i did, but i also hang my fuel tank from it too.
I used rod ends to allow the K member to minimize bind into the frame under twist, but a year later ended up boxing the rails and adding a doubler plate to the outside so it may not have mattered in the long run.
local stiff areas on a flexible frame could for sure cause high stress concentrations elsewhere which can cause issues. (cracks)
but if you have a reasonably designed cage your chassis will most likely be stiff enough it isnt a concern at all to stiffen crossmembers.

 

You can do it. But you won’t notice a ton of change. I boxed the entire C-channel of my frame to the factory boxed front. Marginal gains at best.

 

Certainly looks badass

 

My 2020 Tacomas been popping in and out of limp Mode. My fuse is not secured very well. I’m assuming wires are getting snagged and pulled. Codes I’ve been getting are P2135, P0123, P0122, P0505.

 

What are your thoughts on an engine cage without a roll cage?

 

After you jump start it, what’s the voltage at the battery?

Lopey idle sounds like a vacuum leak maybe.

Codes it sounds like a speed sensor wire is disconnected or pulled… likely the case in the front or rear as you’ve been cycling stuff.
Evan code sounds like you know why? Canister disconnected still?

 

Anyone know of some good homebrew cantilever kits? Or some parts kits that can be close to universal? Maybe MCM tundra rear?

Looking at options change up the rear on my third gen 4runner. Any opinions on cantilever with coilovers, trailing arms with coilovers, or trailing arms with coil springs and bypasses? I would prefer to ditch the coil springs because options are pretty limiting. It is more of a crawler but I like to drive fast so bypasses would be cool.

The only option I see more travel out there is 4wu cantilever ~$5000 for the kit with an integrated sway bar. I would prefer to keep coilovers inside the frame for tire clearance especially if I make a setup then I can use the sway bar I have.

Would be a 3 link and I would like to get atleast 14” of travel if I’m doing the work, ideally 16ish. Bypasses or coilovers on a trailing arm will be tight to fit and I would need to get into the body to fit anything more than a ~17” compressed length shock. I would probably want a 12 or more to be happy with travel, hence exploring cantilever.

For uptravel I’ll have to open it up for tires anyways though so I can just do all new wheel wells with shock clearance.

 

I don't know of a universal type kit, cantilever is so application specific I think you'd be better off making friends with someone that has a plasma table to cut out arms you could weld together yourself once you figure out the lever ratio and space constraints you're dealing with.

 

Either all or nothing is my opinion on it. Boxing the frame made for a bad ass base to build a cage on. I will say that much.

Engine cage with no roll cage, I wouldn’t want to be in a frontal collision. Roll cage without engine cage, same.

Any time you brace one section, you weaken another as the energy has to go somewhere. The next non rigid section is that place.

 

The thing about that is that the frame is flat, so you can only prevent it from twisting so much without adding another plane of structure. Which you have started with the bed cage, now you just gotta think about how it ties together to get the most out of it

 

My rear was boxed and had a bed cage and still danced like a mofo. It only stoppped when I caged the truck. The rear is flimsy no matter what you do until you tie it into a cab cage

 

So cage=stiffness=suspension performance=rattles and headphones?

 

pretty much all that, except mine is fine without headphones

 

Yes. I will say though, I have less rattles with a cage than the wife’s without. That is, until this time of the year when my uniballs, heims and axle bearings are effed. She sounds like a true shit box right now lol.

 

Any opinions on this setup for 3rd gen with a +2 kit? Will it require a lot of custom fab to make it work? https://www.marlincrawler.com/product/heavy-duty-center-mount-for-marrack-steering-rack

https://www.marlincrawler.com/product/double-shear-mount-for-marrack-steering-rack

https://www.marlincrawler.com/product/jam-nut-tie-rod-200-series

https://www.marlincrawler.com/product/tie-rod-jam-nut-for-7-8in-14-thread