Starts and idles but bogs when with throttle

If you can try unbolting your cat and see if it works. Go back through your plug job and check for any crossed or pinched wires, corroded, or loose connections. If you can get a hold of one id also try replacing the iac, though usually the issue is the opposite

 

Yeah me too :/
But yeah I’ve checked the fuses a few times actually

 

Nope, that’s not it either. I unbolted it upstream of the cat today and no change, other than breaking off one of the studs due to many miles and many years of salty living, so I’m now down to just two studs holding that thing on

Same thing happens if I slowly open the throttle, just happens a little slower that’s all.

 

Yeah I unbolted upstream of the cat today and no change, and I’ve been through all the wires and everything so many times, each time thinking I’ll see something I’ve missed before, but still nothing. Maybe somebody can send me the plug wire diagram again, is it possible some online are wrong? even though I’ve checked and double checked that, and it seems like it’d be impossible to mess them up since they’re different lengths too, it’s just acting like the plugs wires are just off or something. I first just assumed that was the case and thought this was nothing, “oh, I must have just crossed two of the wires to the plugs, no biggie” but weeks later now, I’m still here, and completely stumped

I wondered about the IAC, just cause it’s back in that area where I was disconnecting stuff to remove the intake, but I dont really know anything about those or potential problems with them. Even used on ebay I’d be lookin at about $145. So how likely do you think that is? and is there some way to test it? kinda seems like something that would throw a code if it was malfunctioning, but that’s just a guess

 

Yeah I don’t understand this enough to know what the backfire was all about. That has only happened a couple times, when I’m kinda pushing it, trying to force it to rev up a little bit. Was kinda hoping that would be a clue for someone else that knows more than me.

The fan was definitely pretty loud blowing a lot of air on the recording, it seems to be idling ok at a least.

 

If you have tried everything else then your injectors aren't getting a signal to increase the fuel when you open the intake butterfly. Are you sure you didn't accidentally knock off a connector somewhere or miss one?

 

I think you mentioned a new fuel filter?
How about cleaning the injectors? Is the fuel pump running correctly?

Edit: I'm thinking that if it's not the fuel issue, then I would also swap out all related fuses and relays, one at a time, for a new one

 

Hmmmmm
your original code

 

The backfire confirms fuel issue
More so fuel delivery signal from a sensor

appears you can cross out causes #1 and #4 bc u addressed
(IMO not FP bc engine runs)

#3 cause O2
This would be 1st rpr choice
Front O2 mainly controls idle fuel/air mixtures
You can test O2 sensors with Ohm readings
Tons of short vids out there

#2 MAF
1st would be to clean MAF
Don’t skimp and buy that expensive stuff
Brake cleaner will dmg MAF
That cone filter scares me
Lets in tons more air….but Unk if MAF can keep up with air/fuel ratio

start with front O2 (test/replace)and clean MAF
Let everyone know what results are!

 

Yes I’m sure on that. I’ve been trying to get this going for at least a couple weeks before posting on here, so i’ve taken it all apart and put back together many times. I’ve also confirmed i’m getting power to all the coils…

 

I put in a new fuel pump, fuel filter, and did the injectors, maybe a year and a half ago, so I feel pretty good on all those. All fuses are good, but do you know which relays would be effecting fuel delivery?

 

I regularly clean the maf sensor with, yes, proper maf sensor cleaner.
I’ve been running those same air filters since 2015 when I put this motor in, and it’s driven with those to the bottom of argentina, and back, without problems, so while I’m no expert, and maybe they’re not the best? I don’t know, but I feel pretty confident that it’s not part of this problem. (usually it has a filter-wears brand cover over it, but it’s off since I keep taking it all apart).

There’s no way I can remove the o2 sensors without cutting them out at this point due to rust, but that wouldn’t cause it to be this bad (undrivable) would it? and that would definitely be throwing codes I’d think.

I reved it best I could today for a while to get it nice and hot and still no codes

 

While I’m still totally stuck, I wanted to express my utmost gratitude to all of you. So many of you have been responding, being si helpful all with really good ideas, and important things to check, and you’ve all been so nice and respectful all while selflessly helping me. Thank you all so so much, I really really appreciate it

 

If you haven't checked relays, that would be my first go to. I don't know 1st gen, but there have to be diagrams on tw somewhere. And by checking relays, I mean replacing them with a new good one, one at a time. I imagine it would only be the one - fuel pump relay, but maybe there are others

 

It’s my understanding that if the relay is bad the fuel pump won’t run at all, am I wrong in that?
I have a hidden fuel pump shut off switch I wired in, and if that’s off, it won’t even start, zero fuel.

 

Can u post a pix of the rusted front O2 sensor/bung/surrounding exhaust pipe?

hypothesizing here
But if E pipe is “weldable”
$75 to weld new o2 bung(muffler shop(I don’t have welder))
Leave the old one…..install new one/new bung

 

I do have a welder, but a couple problems with that are: my welder is in oregon, and I just crossed the border so I’m in new mexico, but rural new mexico, and of course the truck doesn’t drive, so it’s not super easy getting it to a place that I could do that at.

So… how likely is it that that is the entire problem? I could get it towed one way probably, but if that didn’t fix it then I’d be in a worse situation than I’m in right now.

Could that really cause this without throwing any codes? and happen all at once, making it completely undrivable?

 

Ok I see logistics are an issue

what about this…..to rule out too much fresh air metering for MAF to handle

take off cone filter
And then tape up round inlet and only leave a slit top to bottom Greatly restricting amt of air
As a cheap test to see if changes throttle response

 

Couple sensor question, considering these symptoms, and still not throwing any codes…

This couldn’t be an issue with the IAC, since it idles fine, is this correct?

What about the throttle position sensor? any easy-ish way to test that?

Someone mentioned it could be the cam position sensor, does that make sense with these symptoms? and again, still no codes ¯\_(ツ)_/¯