1st Gen Haltech ECU Discussion

Gotcha, ya I'll have to pull out the shop vac. I haven't noticed it coming out the front, but certainly out the back.

 

I was planning on swapping out the knock sensors for the Bosch donuts as well, and tapping the lower manifold for an IAT sensor (supercharged), but worried about burning the sensors to a crisp in there. I wonder if removing the heat shield below would provide a little relief.

 

Sensors should survive fine in there. Could live them to the outside of you wanted but I don't think there's a great bung location. There's no conjoined plenum area in the lower intake, I'd consider putting your IAT in the SC chamber right before it turns to individual runners

 

Truck is back together and knock control enabled. It has already started advancing timing and I think I need to close my idle screw a bit since doing the 10* advance test raises idle RPM and it's already at minimum % (4%) active, so I can gain some efficiency at stop lights I suppose.

Biggest thing now is figuring out what dB thresholds are practical for this engine.

 

You're probably going to need to make yourself some knock ears to figure that out. You need to figure out what minor and major knock are, and human ears are pretty good at figuring out which one is which

 

dangit

 

It's a pretty important step and it's usually done on a dyno for a reason. Especially if you're using it for advance capabilities as well. It's one thing to use knock control to retard a tune that is already proven to be pretty stable it's another thing to let it advance the timing on top of that so you need to make sure it's on point with its calibration

 

Would be nice if the haltech included a headphone jack lol

 

That'd be a good one for the suggestion box actually haha

 

Hey Gang! I have a 97 tacoma 3rz that I just did the haltech 750/boomslang pnp and wideband kit on. Install went well and I got it running sort of, it smoked really bad off the 3rz boosted tune I was able to find online. ended up fouling a set of plugs.

I grabbed a new set of plugs and have the long term fuel learning and short term fuel learning on. I'm picking up all the knowledge I can off youtube etc.

Does anyone have a 97 3rz basemap tune they can post or send me lol? I really want my truck going.

Supercharger should be here soon too! very excited.

 

I'm happy to help get you set up if you let me know what your setup is, and shoot me your tune file. Just need to know what your fuel system is, if you are coil or distributor, and what your goal is!

 

Ooof. I have had to tweak so many of those now for some WEIRD quirks. Random fuel pressure settings, pinging on lower load cruising, bad start up settings. Craziest thing, is that every single one is different in ways that they absolutely shouldn't be.

 

The iat is good data to have to help, but it's likely just timing causing your ping issues. Or fuel octane. What do you target for cruise and idle for afr? I'm 5.29 on 35's and I'm consistently getting 17mpg even running 3200rpm on the highway. Shouldn't be too bad to dial a decent little bit more economy in there, and get rid of the pinging so you don't have to drive around it.

 

I believe a starting point for the knock frequency can be calculated.

https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/webinar-questions/show/083-understanding-knock-1

 

Factory are calibrated for 7.1kHz
Common formula yields 6.1kHz

My issue is defining reasonable magnitudes

 

Shouldn't be octane. Always get 91 from "name brand" stations (Shell, valero, Chevron, 76, etc)
You're probably right about there being some additional cruising efficiency tuning to be done. Idle is 14.3 and cruising is anywhere between 14 (-7.4 & 2500rpm) and 12.3 (0 & 2500rpm). It wants to idle at a richer afr. I previously couldn't get it to idle at 14.7 without it surging. Could probably target leaner cruising rpms, but I fear that would induce more knocking around that range and then would have to pull more timing.

I haven't messed too much with the timing because I have a hard time finding exactly what cells need to be changed that are pinging after a test drive. Wish I had a knock control to lean on for that.

 

Dunno if I have a vaccum leak now somewhere (doubt it but no other ideas) but suddenly I can't get my no-load idle below 1100rpm. I'm even removing an extra 10* of timing

 

That sounds like a vac leak if your IGN cyl 1 timing is between 5-15°

 

It is. But my manifold pressure is also the lowest I've ever seen it other than decel, at -21.0

 

That's typically how vacuum leaks work