TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Ah right. Well to you both then, @Athlaos @SUMOTNK it wouldn’t have been possible lol.
I think I’ll save them for if I need them.
The truck has been too unreliable in the sense that too many mod parts aren’t meshing as I’d like and creating small problems every few months for the better part of this year.

 

I went the opposite. Replaced the S/C crank and water pump with the NST. Stock belt with Roush tensioner. Will be throwing on the Detsom studs on the next version here. But I have some more miles on mine. If your eyeball check looks good, I wouldn't worry about running them 100k.
At 20k miles the nut-bolt check seems key. I'm at 40k in the s/c. I just want to keep this thing running reliably as well. Loctite anything that vibrated loose and send it.

Checked mine at 20k as well but looked mint to me.

 

I'd swap the studs. They break. No one knows why exactly, and no one knows when. Better than having to drill and easy out a broken stud later on.
Also, while you're rooting around in there, check the coolant hose between the SC and the firewall if you haven't already. The hose clamp if positioned wrong can rub a hole in the SC body.

 

That was my 1/2 brain to change them. I bought the SC used and don’t know how many miles are on the studs. I’d guess 120k + maybe, as I had to rebuild the supercharger when I bought it. Then put 20k mi on.
I’d much rather extract the regular studs however. I know both have broken. I think loose studs may be the ultimate culprit.

I picked up the NST pulleys for a good price, other wise $250 for the set and another $250 for the single SC crank doesn’t seem worth while to me. But maybe I’ll be pleasantly surprised !

 

I did read about this when installing mine. I put it in a good spot and check it every oil change. I have the hood open more than that though lol

 

I forgot that you had to rebuild yours. Yes it's a good idea then. Leave old studs for spares in the box. Replace it! Replace it all!

 

Free belt, north dallas pickup.

$5 shipped

Clearing out the parts bin from vehicles I don't have anymore

 

$5? I'll take it!

 

Various fueling parts also, just pay shipping. too lazy to grab the images, they're over here lol

https://www.tundras.com/threads/general-supercharger-thread.85513/page-627#post-3750695

Edit: fueling and belt all spoken for. thanks!

 

Has anyone put the 70mm throttle body on their truck? Did it have a high idle afterwards?

 

I recall the higher idle + larger bore TB being discussed but idle does return back to normal. Personally, I don't experience a higher than normal idle speed with my 76mm TB.

I also recall @PhoS posting about a Throttle body reset procedure... need him to provide details on that.

** @rheath08: I'm assuming you've sprayed around that work area to check for vacuum leaks, etc..

 

It’s expected at first install, as the ecu and subsequent airflow tables are calculated and calibrated to a 65mm TB effective area.

Moving up a TB size will require the idle airflow trims to adapt.

 

what @JustDSM and @SUMOTNK said. i just swap the 76 for 65 every couple of years and never had issues or noticed anything too out of the ordinary. maybe initial couple of days.

 

Okay, I'm getting some funky EAP errors. I checked the gas cap, which seems fine. I had someone install my AEM pump while they were boxing the frame since it had to come out anyway. My hunch is that there is a leak somewhere from that installation. I can't imagine any other issues. Trust until it's a hair under 90k. I think the code was 0456, pointing to a small EAP leak somewhere.

What are the likely candidates for having evap issues after a fuel pump install? My MPG has been getting really bad since the pump install, and you're noisy as well, which makes me think it could also have a leak that's pulling air into the system to make things more fun. When I'm regularly driving, I'm getting 9mpg, which is really bad.

The pump did sit for a couple of years. Is there any chance the pump itself could be bad? I'm super green when it comes to the fuel side of things. I will see if they look at it, but if not, I may have to tackle it myself. I was hoping to get some action in the truck again, but it's been one thing after the other (also having some funky front-end issues).

Could the SAI point to any issues here? I had to move it installing my HOWE / JD Steering setup and frankly its not in a good spot up front and prop sucking in dirt (plan to move that at some point).

 

Sounds like the pump is working tho (it’s relatively stupid and either works or doesn’t), and SAI is totally separate. Sounds like you may have a leak somewhere.

 

How often do you get a code? I think that’s the same code my truck throws. It only does it like twice a year randomly. I usually just clear it and give the gas cap a few more clicks and it goes away until it randomly pops up again.

 

The idle will relearn by itself but can take quite a while. You can speed it up by doing the following procedure.

**The truck needs to be fully warmed up before doing this, and turn AC off.
-Turn key to the ON position without starting the truck then turn it OFF two times .
-Start the truck, put it in drive and wait 5 min, shift back to park then turn it off.

 

I had the same code (p0456) after I did my pump, it was leaking at the tank cap gasket. I replaced it and it went away. Did they replace the tank gasket when doing the pump? I doubt the MPG has anything to do with it though..

 

I want to say I had the p0456 when I had an issue with my evap can and the pump there behind the tank.
I believe I had few others too so I replaced the whole canister with the pump and filter.
I’d check that all those lines are correct and secure. In general, all the tank connections and hoses before ripping stuff apart and replacing stuff

 

Bought a new canister? Ouf those things are pricey.

I'm not 100% on what you need to disconnect on the Taco to drop the tank but if hoses were disconnected during the pump install that could easily contribute a small leak. The plastic elbows on the lines are also easily cracked/broken if mishandled. The evap system does a pressure test shortly after the vehicle shuts off and that is when the code would be generated. There's a procedure in the manual to pressurize the evap system via the air inlet and use soapy water to check the connections. I'd probably start there.