Do I have this right? Clutch replacement....

With all the CM/Tilton/OEM Sleeved, I'm getting a little confused. Written off the CM for obvious reasons. Tilton seems overwhelming. I really just want to install a new clutch and be done w/ it. I'm hoping for 5 more years out of this truck which currently has 222k on it. Still original clutch and all associated parts. TOB chirp is almost non-existent any more. Maybe it gave in when it knew I wouldn't replace it just b/c it was noisy. I did change to the TSB slave spring many years ago. Maybe that gave me some extended life.
1. Again, if I have it right... the quill might be worn down so bad the URD sleeve won't work, is that correct? Obviously no way to tell until the trans is down though.

2. If it is worn to oblivion (how do I measure that anyway?) is my only option to replace the entire transmission b/c the quill is not replaceable on this one?

3. If quill seems visually ok, would this be an accurate parts list?

Slave Cylinder
Toyota
Product ID: 31470-35181

Support, Release Fork
Toyota
Product ID: 31236-35050

Transmission Clutch Pressure Plate
Toyota
Product ID: 31210-60280

Transmission Clutch Friction Plate
Toyota
Product ID: 31250-35452

Clutch Release Bearing
Toyota
Product ID: 31230-60241
---OR---
https://urdusa.com/throwout-bearing-upgraderepair-kit-2005-tacoma-v6-6-speed/

And that sleeve kit comes w/ a larger diameter TOB to accommodate the sleeve compared to the OEM release bearing.

Oh, and a new flywheel. I think I'd prefer a lighter weight compared to heavy. But regardless of whether it's this one, oem or urd heavy. As long as I go w/ one of them, it's all the same otherwise as far as compatibility and fitment, right?
https://urdusa.com/lightweight-steel-flywheel-for-1gr-fe-engines-with-6-speed-trans/


4. Am I missing anything? Flywheel bolts 90105-10294?? Rear main seal 90311-A0006
?

 

Wow.didnt know about a TSB spring. Of course. I need to check.

there seems like a significant amount of dead zone play when I first push my pedal before it actually starts to get into the working zone. Not sure if that has anything to do with it. Or if my plastic pedal cup hole is worn out versus something like FJ metal.


That being said I don’t see what’s overwhelming about the Tilton kit. Guy on here has a hardware kit for it.

I got the URD heavy flywheel back when they had it.
LuK is a good brand. RockAuto has it for cheap. But I’ve heard it doesn’t play well with starter engagement.
Resurface is another option.

were all in the same boat. I’ve pulled my trans twice. I’ll probably do it a third time with my eyes closed. Current setup is

-CM
-URD heavy
-URD stage 2
-new factory metal slave
-pressure bleed DOT4LV
-Lucas trans oil
-replaced plastic shifter cup
-AJT designs knob
-so many clutch rod adjustments I stripped the nut

funny story. Know a guy who put CM into a new Supra. Said it quickly took a shit.

 

It was for the slave cylinder... this guy. placed it next to the original for comparison....

 

A couple of things. I would recommend the URD quill sleeve even if yours is not worn. I would also grease it lightly with a good moly pilot bearing grease, such as Honda M-77 assembly grease, available on Amazon. The stainless quill just works more smoothly. Also, the TOB they use is actually an OEM unit that is precision ground to fit over the sleeve. These are good parts. Also, do you really want a lighter flywheel? Unless this is a race truck we are talking about, that is not used on the street, I would suggest that a lighter flywheel is a mistake. I would not go lighter that stock for a daily driver. URD used to make a heavy one, it might be hard to find now. Centerforce makes one even heavier. I have used both of them, and prefer the CF unit for the added weight. My use is offroad, lots of highway, and some city driving.

 

Thanks @badger
Noted on the moly grease!

I was under the impression the sleeve won’t work if the quill is worn excessively. Is that right? Or can I put it over just about any condition quill? If mine isn’t worn this was a guarantee that I’d be using it.
As for the flywheel; I don’t race the truck but I also don’t off road anymore either. Gravel roads and some FS/BLM land is about the extent of any off road if that I do these days. I guess I was just hoping for some improved acceleration and more room under the tq curve. But I’ll give the heavy one more consideration

 

Chris,
You won't gain enough acceleration to overcome the aggravation of killing the truck or over revving to keep from killing the truck when you take off. The lighter FW will also require more precise shifting to be smooth. Heavier FWs are more forgiving. Probably the stock FW is a good choice for you. Not a sexy answer, but stock is pretty damn good in most cases. You would appreciate the heavier FW if you find yourself starting on hills a lot, or if your truck is much heavier than stock. The heavier FW actually makes the truck feel like it has more torque, but a little bit slower to accelerate.
Edit: regarding your worn quill question: I don't know. I guess it could get that bad, but I haven't seen one like that. Unless the sleeve is flopping around it should be OK. It is a very high tolerance fit over the quill.

 

thanks man.
Appreciate the insight!
I’m gonna order most of the stuff tonight. At first glance, you see anything I’m missing to do the job?

 

With 222K on your truck, it's always a good idea to replace the engine rear main seal. I see you have that listed at the end. It's cheap and easy with the transmission out. You'll be kicking yourself if it starts weeping a year later! Other than that, you might consider a new clutch master cylinder. That way everything is new and you shouldn't have any trouble for another 200K. At least the master cylinder is easy enough to replace later if need be, but at 222K, how much later is later?

 

Thanks for the help Badger!

 

What about spaceship grease

Aka krytox
More affordable in small quantities
Used included but not limited to Mercedes dealer sunroof squeal repair

it claims to solve all grease related failures

 

I don't know, never used it. I do know that the good moly pastes work.

 

I always go to BITOG if I want a general consensus on oil/grease and even metals sometimes. It's a great resource.

 

Looks like URD has a heavy fw in stock now too
https://urdusa.com/urd-torque-u-heavy-flyweel-1gr-fe-4-0l-v6/

 

just a heads up I also see they don’t list any clutches under Tacoma

compared to in the past when there was multiple including their stage 2 that I got

 

I noticed that. Likely just going to be an oem clutch at this point w/ the URD flywheel if not oem there too