Abs and traction light

I have an abs and traction light. And idea what the cause is? I had codes Ran and both right side speed sensor is the issue. But I replaced sensors

 

Bump

 

Either a wiring issue or a bad ABS module.
When I get time, I can post the diagrams and testing procedure.

Have you had any recent work done to the truck?
When did the problem happen? All of a sudden? or after something happened?

The front and rear sensors are not directly connected.
So this is kind of an "odd" issues.

 

I replaced tie rod ends,drive shaft and lower control arms but that’s only after the lights came on. So maybe some rear tire skid going on a turn on wet then dry surface

 

Did you hear any "skidding" around tighter corners or feel any kind of resistance when that was lit?

I had those come on along with my RR Lock indicator on the Highway a while back, and have had the e-locker engage on its own without any indicator lights when I've got above 70 mph recently. No idea why or how that's happening.

I do also have some wear in my rear ring/pinion setup, as indicated by the "howl" that comes from the back end under power at highway speed lately.

 

The first step would be unplug the right side speed sensors.
Turn the ignition switch on.
The check power on the following.

Black wire or Right Rear speed sensor = 12v (battery voltage)
Blue wire in the Right Front = 12v (battery voltage)

 

Yes the skid happens some time depends on surface

 

If it's coming from the rear and happening only on cornering, it's likely that your rear diff lock engaged without being told to. You won't notice it at all when driving straight since both wheels will want to turn at the same rate anyway, and curves on highway are usually pretty gentle unless you're in the mountains.

When you intentionally lock the rear diff, it deactivates the traction control, and the traction and ABS lights will come on along with the rear locker light. When it comes on unintentionally, the only thing I've found that'll deactivate it is to kill the engine and re-start after a five count. That will generally require being stopped if you're in an automatic, but it could be done while coasting in neutral in a MT.

I don't know if it's some issue in the rear end, or if the 4x4 ECU is on the blink. I'm not sure I want to take it to the dealer just to have them start replacing parts in reverse order of profit margin until they find the culprit. I know that I at least need to get the ring/pinion gears in my rear diff swapped out at some point, and I've been putting off checking/replacing the diff oil since the issues started due to a combination of weather, laziness, and having another vehicle that's usable for longer drives. Been thinking about swapping to an air-locker anyway since the e-lock is kind of finicky on the trails.

 

these are the lights

 

Those two along with the RR Lock indicator are the ones that come on when the rear e-lock is engaged, if you have one.
If you're getting "skidding" sounds when you're not turning then it's probably something other than a locked diff though.

After the first couple of times, now when my rear locker comes on on its own, I don't actually get any warning lights, just the resistance and noise the first time I try to make a tight turn with it engaged.

 

This is the error codes I’m getting. Any idea to what the cause is? I changed brakes and rotors. And bled them

 

You can google those codes and find out as much as I can. Looks like those codes are all associated with the ABS system (C1407/C1408 come up as short/break on a wheel speed sensor circuit

The issue I'm having with my rear e-locker isn't causing any CEL light or OBD2 codes to come up. I'm just having my diff locker engage without being told to. Now that it's not causing the light to come on or the associated ABS/DSC mode changes to activate (or at least the indicators aren't coming on), I'm thinking that it's maybe some kind of mechanical issue; maybe a worn/stretched return spring on the actuator? If the mechanism is oriented the way that it appears to be, then it could be in my case that it's some kind of centrifugal effect with a spring that's somehow lost some stiffness since it's seeming to be associated with spending some amount of time above a certain speed.

 

Hard to imagine taking out a bunch of speed sensors all at once. Me thinks it is something common to the system. As mentioned, ABS module might be suspect.

 

I'd think that the 1407/1408 code would generate due to a wiring issue on any one of the speed sensors. All it takes is one corner to generate all three codes.

I've heard that with longer-travel shocks, it can be easy to accidentally have the ABS wires get pulled tight if you jack up the vehicle by the frame and let the rear axles go to full droop. If you're lifted enough, it might be possible to damage the wired just changing/rotating a tire if you're not careful.

 

Interesting. I did not know that. You sure? Why then have the codes designate a specific location?

 

I didin't know the codes were location specific. All I did was a google search and read the names of the codes without looking any deeper.

If you already know that the codes are location-specific, then you know more than I do.

I saw one search result which mentioned something about rust in the sensors/connectors causing those codes, so if you're doing a lot of water crossings or mud driving, it's possible you could get similar levels of corrosion around the same time at different wheels. Or is could be an issue in the harness somewhere along the way; if the codes are for both rear wheels, there's probably some length of run where the two circuits are running in the same harness.

A mechanic with eyes on the vehicle is going to be a lot more useful than anyone on the internet trying to guess at what could possibly be going on based just on an OBD2 code

Like I sad, I had those lights come on in my truck because the e-locker was engaging at highway speeds and there was no CEL or code associated with it.

I'm also having the VSC and Traction lights coming on in my 4Runner now, but it's connected to a knock sensor code which has nothing to do with whatever issue you're having.

 

The solutions that fixed those codes was that the wheel hub bearing was messed up. I replaced the hub bearing. And codes when away.