Tpp4's No Nonsense Guide to Kicker Key T-Harness (16-19)

Thanks. Try again this weekend. Had to button it all back up as no more days off.
Quiet isn't an issue. I live in the mountains in big sur. Nobody around.

 

Bone head lack of tripple checking
When I went to do the test with the blue wire @destin_meeks suggested the dips had all been put wrong. Either I sleep walked and messed with them all or one of my 3 monsters was messing with it while I was soldering the harness and I did not re check. First dip was already set to 12v. Just had to shake my head.
Dis I say monsters? I meant angels.

 

It’s always the simplest thing! So simple, we don’t think to check!

 

You need a silent environment. I went to a quiet little park with no traffic or ambient sound and got it to work. Or you could try your garage.

You can't even talk loud when it's doing it's thing, it's super sensitive

Turn gains up to where you can barely hear the white noise too

 

Someone build me a harness. Thank you

 

Not knowing much about this stuff, is it a bad idea to use an in line fuse ? on the red wires going into the amp. Thank you all for making this great post. I would not be able to even consider doing this without help like this.

 

You are required to use an in-line fuse. The key even comes with one, but any amp wiring kit is also going to come with one.

 

Hello All, Can this "Red 12V Switched Power" be used to attach to the "Blue" Remote Turn On wire on the Kicker Key. To be used to turn on the Amp when ever the HU is on. Thank you for any help.

 

@TPPove OP. Thank you very much for taking the time and effort to make this post. Without it I would not have tried it. The post gave me the information I needed, thank you.

@destin_meeks Thank you for answering my questions and informing me about the Kicker Key amp. I didn't know it was as good as it is, and helping me with the Tweeter wiring,,, I would have NEVER figured that out without your help.

I also got help from others reading here and there about things. Than you all for your tidbits of information.

 

Howdy. I am planning to install the Key 200.4 into my 2019 SR without the JBL.

My goals are:
A. To not cut any factory wiring.
B. Configuring the Key in Bi-Amp mode to power a set of Kicker KSS269 components for the front stage.
C. Run new speaker wire directly to the dash speakers but use the factory wiring plus the

$18 72-8104 Speaker Wire Adapters for Select Toyota Vehicles - 4 Total Adapters

72-8104 adapters for the door speakers.
D. The rear speakers will be powered by the factory HU.

My questions are:
1. Does the factory radio still output voltage on the remote amp/antenna pins (blue wires) even if those remote wires are not present in the factory harness?

1a. If so, should I remove the looped blue wire on the

$8 70-1761 Radio Wiring Harness For Toyota 87-Up Power 4 Speaker

70-1761 or not bother?​

2. Am I correct that I will not need to use the small harnesses from either the 70-1761 or the

$12 71-1761 87 - 94 Toyota Vehicle Harness

71-1761 and can just plug the factory harness into the HU?
3. Will the door speakers will still work even if the dash speakers are not connected to the factory harness? I believe they're wired in parallel at the harness, so I suspect I should be fine.
4. About what gauge are the two power and two ground wires from the Kicker Key harness once twisted together? I suspect 14 gauge?

I have attached spreadsheet of my planned wiring. Please let me know if you see any problems.

 

Okay, I completed most of the wiring. The amp power, amp ground, and tweeters wires are still pending to be run through the truck. Everything else is crimped with non-insulated butt splices and sealed with adhesive heat shrink. Still wondering if I should remove that loop on the female harness.

 

The loop is fine to leave

 

^ knows what he is talking about.

 

10Q, sir.

 

Just wanted to say thanks for this in depth thread. Just got done installing in my 2017 DC. This thread was incredibly helpful. I extended using speed wire to put the amp under the passenger seat and all worked great. Thanks again.

 

I answered my questions during the install:
1. Yes, it outputs voltage on those pins even if there was no factory amp/wire.
2. It was not needed, but as the large harness and small harness are bundled together from the factory I needed to cut open the plastic wrap to separate the harnesses and give myself clearance.
3. The door speaker will NOT work without the factory tweeter/dash speaker installed unless you use a speaker harness like the

$8 metra 72-8110 METRA - subaru/toyota 2008-up - speaker harness (72-8110)

metra 72-8110, which has the loops to connect the factory door speakers in parallel if that is your intention. I didn't connect the dash speakers to the harness, I just installed the harness and bundled it up with some tesa tape to keep it from rattling.
4. The two cables bundled together were about 12-10 gauge.

 

Simpleton here... Bear with me for a minute...
2023 DCLB Sport w/8" entune HU, non JBL.
I'm planning on Subaru tweeters,
Kicker 51KSC6904 up front, and either
Kicker 51KSC6704 or

$80 43DSC6704 Kicker DSC670 6.75" (165mm) Coaxial Speakers, 4-Ohm (Pair)

43DSC6704 in the rear doors. I'm also planning on the 200.4 Key amp. No sub at this time.
It looks to me that to add the Key amp, I need the Red Wolf add an amp harness. I believe I need to:
* cut it in half,
* splice the male connector end of it to the 8 pin connector that comes with the amp (after removing the RCA Jack's)
* run that assembly from the HU R51 connector to the Key
* Then the 14 pin connector that comes with the amp gets spliced into the female portion of the Red Wolf, and that goes from the output of the Key to the connector that originally was plugged into the HU. Of course that 14 pin connector also has power wiring that needs to go to the battery and ground. That I understand.

Is that it? I guess I'm second guessing myself because it looks like the older radios need a T-harness with something like 8 connectors.

About the rear speakers, will the DSC's be a good match given that they'll be "equalized" by the Key? It's only $30ish bucks difference between them and the KSC's at Crutchfield, but I'm sure I can find a use for $30 if I try

Thanks!

 

Stick with the KS. I had the DS in my jeep way back and they are HARSH. Which worked well for piercing through wind and road noise with the top down and doors off, but not ideal for a truck. The silk dome tweeters in the KS are much smoother.

as for the install. You’ve got it.
Cut the harness in half, then it’s out of the radio, through the amp, and on to the speakers. Doesn’t get much easier!

I would suggest leaving on the RCA tips and splicing into those wires, instead of cutting them off. These can be helpful for adding additional amps down the road like a subwoofer. Saves an extra step and additional splicing.

 

Thank you sir! Most appreciated.
Are t-tap connectors OK to use? Seems quick and simple.