1st Gen Haltech ECU Discussion

And that's w/o any redundancy... I'd like to have at least a TPS or 2ndary pedal input for safety, aka limp mode

btw I just measured, the factory TB bolt spacing is 65mm.
I'm not sure I'm reading this right.. Is it 68.5mm for the bolt holes?

 

Throttle bodies are usually measured by the blade. But I'll measure one of the bolt patterns of the 60 mm Bosch unit when I get the opportunity

 

Sorry, updated right after you responded

 

Here I got you the hookup. It's only a little bigger you should be able to make it fit

 

Got both a Bosch 0280750151 (60mm DBW throttle) from Amazon and a 0280755051 (acceleration position sensor pedal) from Australia on da wey (+connectors)

 

Think of all the fancy features you can give yourself, cruise control is really the only one that comes to mind but I suppose you can have blip shifts and stuff too. The only thing you're going to have to figure out is how to do automatic transmission pressure cable which is why I suggested the crazy pedal position thing from Honda versus a pedal mounted style one like a modern car would use

 

Hmm tbh I missed that, crap
CC would be nice to have back, I did think about that haha... But more inputs

I would really like to have 100% throttle at part pedal though, that's really pushing me

 

I really think something is still pretty messed up about how your boost control works that that is even a consideration. But yeah you could have cruise control just get or make a CAN keypad. But you're going to have to do something for the automatic. I vote for throwing the auto in the garbage can, It's not good for power anyway.

 

Rip my 3/4 done 4x4 conversion

 

I thought you finished that. The good news is you don't have to move the cross member to put in a manual

 

I never did the wheel bearings lol. I've just had 2LO with rear diff lock

 

Ah fancy haha. The bearings aren't as bad as everyone makes it out to be if you have a press. Certainly not my favorite job but still got it done pretty quick. Had to make a press tool for the bearing though.

 

Think I'm going to have to try to extend the Bosch main shaft and adapt the cam ring to for the transmission to it. Probably same amount of work as adapting that Honda position sensor.

Technically another option is I could use my spare cruise control actuator and mount it under the truck and control it with the Haltech as well.

But curious... what would happen if I just ran the transmission line pressure at full throttle all the time?

 

It would shift hard and may prematurely wear out internals. You could probably get away with it though, I think some have. The possibility for putting in the electronic pressure control valve body exists as well if you could find one

 

Significantly more so than the Sonnax shift kit?

 

The sonnax kit shims the pressure valve and reduces restriction on the paths that provide engagement. I don't know that you would reach the same level of firmness. But the sonnax kit also just increases the ramp at which those shifts feel firm it doesn't entirely raise the pressure across the entire range which may or may not affect the life of the pump as well if you were to raise it all the time. The sonnax kit avoids raising the pressure to extreme levels by reducing the amount of restriction provided to each clutch engagement path.

 

Idk if I'm looking with the wrong search terms or what, but phrases like "throttle body linkage pulley" or simpler bring up almost nothing. Did find some from efihardware.com but cheapest is like 50 bucks. I'll probably have to fab that myself using some sandwiched plates since I don't want to trash my OEM one

 

I don't think the TB is going to appreciate actuating more load, that and its full travel =/= the travel of the auto cable. I don't believe this is the right solution. I'd go the remote cable actuator route with the Honda bracket or the electronic valve body route from an 03-04

 

We'll see. It just seems silly to go from this to what's basically a dual TPS

 

That's what all modern DBW systems are anyway. Making a pedal that you have to mount that has a non-changeable TPS inside of it doesn't change the fact that it's still just a TPS that calls itself a pedal position sensor. That can't possibly seem sillier than what you just explained doing to the drive-by wire body. The most elegant looking solution I agree is an all in one pedal but it still has a pedal position sensor in it and you still have a old-fashioned transmission with a cable. The way you make this not silly is by putting the electronic valve body in. I can pretty much guarantee you that you will have drive-by-wire error codes frequently if you follow through with your plan to extend that shaft and have it directly pull on the automatic transmission cable