Braking power

Just kind of curious if I'm dealing with an issue or if it's just the truck. I have a 2000 Tacoma sr5 4x4 v6. The brakes are extremely underpowered. I get it, it has drums on the rear and isn't a disc brake. I'm not really sure how to compare it, but I can compare to a plethora of different vehicles I've owned Sierras, Silverados, four runners, f 150s. The tacoma has far less braking power. I've replaced pads, rotors, drums, and brake shoes. Is there anything else, I need tobe doing? I know about the Tundra brake upgrade which will likely be my next stop. I just bought new tires maybe 8k miles ago, and would love not to have to replace them so soon. My tacoma has 15" wheels, and from what I understand I'd have to replace the wheels and thus tires todo the brake upgrade. Do these first gen Tacomas just suck at braking or do I need tobe checking something else?

 

Make sure the shoes are adjusted properly.

More questions:
Is there a lift?
Tire size?

 

I have been driving a 2000 Tacoma 4x4 for the last 16 years. I always thought the brakes just sucked until I did the Tundra brake upgrade. Yes, you need 16 inch rims. It was worth every penny I spent.

 

Check your LSPV that controls rear brakes

Found out mine failed
Taco was stopping on 100% front brakes….barely
Did a LSPV delete
4 wheel skid now

 

Generally, I find that those who are running into braking issues are running into one of the problems below, generally in this order:

1. The rear brake shoes are not properly adjusted. The rear shoes are *supposed* to adjust automatically with the parking brake, but a lot of times they get gunked up and don't adjust as they should. You can learn how to clean them (so the parking brake adjustment will work), and adjust them manually, here (note: you don't have to replace them, but the write-up covers that as well): https://adventuretaco.com/guide/step-by-step-tacoma-rear-drum-brake-shoe-replacement-also-4runner/
2. The brake proportioning valve is not correctly adjusted. This can happen frequently if there is any lift on the rear of the truck, and without proper adjustment a lift decreases the rear braking, thereby forcing the front to do more work. The LSBPV arm needs to be raised the same height as your lift, so if you're up 3" in the rear, you need a 3" riser for that arm.
3. The brakes need bleeding and/or the brake fluid is old. Toyota says to bleed from furthest to closest, so LSPV, RR, LR, RF, LF is the correct order. Do it until there is no air coming out, and then bleed about 3-5 more cycles. Brake fluid should be a very light honey color - almost clear. If it's a darker green or grey or blue - that discoloring means that it's saturated with water (which it picks up from the atmosphere). Water compresses (and boils) much more easily than brake fluid, causing that spongy pedal feel and lack of braking. Get all that old brake fluid out - which means bleeding a lot through each corner - and things will be a lot better.
4. The brake lines between the frame and spindle are the (usually old/original) rubber lines. Using braided stainless steel lines is a really good idea. These are great lines that work with the Tundra Brake Upgrade as well: https://adventuretaco.com/product/4runner-stainless-steel-brake-lines-for-tundra-brake-upgrade/

Given all that, the Tundra Brake Upgrade can really help - as @mechmn1 mentioned - especially if you're finding that you're warping your front rotors. This page has a great step-by-step guide (with pics) on the upgrade, as well as links to all the parts needed (at varying price points). OEM is best for the pads, but for the calipers you shouldn't pay the premium. Get them from your local parts store (ideally) or Amazon, which will give a lifetime warranty in case you ever need to replace them. And don't forget the upgraded lines, they make a big difference with the larger calipers.

 

Jordan take a look at this video, it applies to 1st gen Tacoma’s too, Timmy makes great easy to follow videos.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=P8zy-j4UBUo&pp=ygUiVHVuZHJhIGJyYWtlIG1vZCB0aW1teSB0aGUgdG9vbG1hbg==

 

^ What @turbodb said. Did you bleed your old fluid out when you did all the changes? Does your truck have ABS? If so you may also have air in the ABS system. You can try to bleed air out of it by driving, slam on brakes to engage ABS, go home bleed. Repeat that a few times. Only way to bleed ABS while parked is through the TECH software at dealership.

 

Yes there is a OME lift w/ Dakar leaf springs. Tires are 32x11.5x15

 

Yep, then check those things I listed above. I bet you've got some brake shoe adjusting and LSBPV adjusting due to the lift that needs to go on. And of course, the TBU will help as well (but it shouldn't be absolutely necessary unless you're heating up your front rotors and warping them).

 

Awesome thank you, I'm about to try this!

 

Just to follow up on this - I recently removed my LSBPV when I installed a new setup in the rear, and I happened to run across the riser that I used for it when I was out in the shop today. You can see how it raises up the anchor that the arm attaches to in this photo, where the two bolts would have originally attached where the riser attaches to the rear diff housing, and are now a few inches higher up on the bracket.



You can use anything to raise up the "anchor," but I'm not using the BAMF riser shown here anymore. Happy to let it go for $10 + shipping, just PM me if you're interested.

 

Man, I appreciate it. I actually just ordered the bracket from BAMF slightly before you posted this. I appreciate it.

 

I did a brake flush with a pneumatic brake pump kit. I was barely getting any fluid from the LSBPV. I'm wondering if it's malfunctioned, Im going to try the bracket first and see if that corrects the problem. If not, Im guessing I either need to replace the valve or delete the valve all together? Sorry I'm not a mechanic and this is all new to me. I just want to make sure I'm on the right thought process here.

 

When installing that lspv bracket make sure the lspv linkages are free. I took mine apart and cleaned/lubed them

 

work the lspv linkage. It might be stuck

 

I have the same issue on my truck. found out on steep ass hill that I stalled out on and could not hold the truck with parking brake and pedal slammed to the floor. Went home to change my underwear with the radio off.

Has anyone done a write up on how to check the LSBPV? Also is switching the drum brakes to disk worth it?