First Tacoma

if you are going 3" it will be enough to easily go with 33" (but you will need tune at least because of the tire's weight). just avoid some cheap things like Rough Country. you go with fox\bilsteins\donisons as shocks and a lot of different things as leaf packs.

 

You are jumping way ahead of yourself - a Tacoma is not an F150. This reminds me when I was still in the Army and people would say . . . "in the 82nd we did it this way or, when I was in the 101st we did such and such." STOP! you don't have a F150 you don't need a 4" lift let alone a 6" lift.

Start with; you want a daily driver that can go off road and do Moderate rocky trails. Fine - a 2" lift with 33s will fit the bill perfectly. Once you go beyond 33s you need to do a $3K plus re-gear . . . . or should. Even with 33s you should get a tune like OTT, but there are others - I personally prefer OTT - as a matter of fact I would get a tune even if I was keeping my Tacoma bone stock.

Something like Bilstein 5100s and AAL is probably the least expensive good quality way to go and a good entry level off road suspension that can do the kind of trails you want to do - I know because I went that route and that is fine. You could go up from there . . . Bilstein 6112/5160 and a leaf pack (plenty of good choices there). You don't need to go overboard and get $6K $8K and up rock crawling or desert racing suspension - It amazes me how folks who don't do more that than some moderate off road trails buy waaaay more capability that they will never use off road . . . because it's soooo cool.
I would recommend an UCA that would allow for a more flexible alignment though - I personally like SPC, but again everyone has an opinion on which brand is best. Be careful with wheels - off set - especially too much negative off set can be nothing but rubbing problems. So not too negative and not too much positive. 0 off set seems to be the sweet spot. As far as tires . . . hold on to your hat - everyone has a favorite tire. All I would say is you need an AT tire not a Mud tire. I like KO2s and I'am interested in the new KO3 but I guarantee - you will here that KO2 suck and such and such tire is the greatest tire ever made blah blah blah. So good luck with that - you have had trucks off road so you already probably have a tire preference.

The last thing I would say get a CMC (cab mount chop) ~$ 300 any decent 4x4 shop can do it. You may need some minor fender trimming in the front which is pretty easy to do yourself - plenty of YouTube videos on that - or you can get a viper cut and be done with it - ~$200 unless you feel confident you have the cutting skills with a Dremel .

 

All the advice about cooling your jets and driving and using it for awhile, then do thorough research before actually doing something , is #1.

 

Tailgate lock from @christian06 or StaBellCo to avoid theft. Truck bedwall stiffeners for offroad twisting. H9 bulbs to replace the H11 halogen low-beams (remove the green inserts). I would get belly-skid plates early as well. All of this is simple "defense", not lifts or large tires or ...

 

This is just pure fear-mongering.The dude has had lifted trucks before, it sounds like he knows what he wants (F-150 vs Tacoma does not change the physics of it one bit). If one doesn't want to cut their crossmember (which, BTW, is NOT irreversible if you save the piece), that is fine. But to suggest lifts that do cut the member are no good and have all these other "issues" is flat-out wrong. BDS and Fabtech both offer great quality kits (with excellent shock options that don't use spacers) that will get the job done offroad.

Maybe OP needs to better describe what these "moderate rocky trails" are that he intends to go on. Rocks are certainly where one would benefit from more clearance.

 

As a daily driver, your ride will suck, and be dangerous on the highway, but you've probably encountered that on the Ford.

I'm soooo impressed with my 2" Lift and 33" Pizza cutters. I've got lots of clearance.

 

don't go with Icon AAL - it is not working (maybe if not taking out overload leaf it will )

 

Lifting your truck will give you no gain in ground clearance unless you buy portals. It can only help approach angle and departure angle. Bigger tires = more ground clearance. Lifting also does not help you clear your bigger tires. It makes it easier to clear them at “ride height” but as soon as the suspension cycles and your wheel is turned you will find out where it is rubbing. You will always need to cut what is in the way or buy products moving the knuckle away from areas you are rubbing. That being said a 2” suspension lift, some nice tires, and maybe some nice armor sounds like it would suit your needs great while being functional and also look badass doing it.

 

Drive the truck stock and see where it needs improvement after the fact, if anywhere. Chances are you’re going to be able to get anywhere you want to get with no lift at all and with stock tires. In all honesty, there is very little functional reason to lift an IFS truck. It doesn’t clear larger tires appropriately. It negatively affects driveshaft, CV, and steering angles. It subjectively can make the truck look cooler, and can help approach/departure angles, but that’s about it.

Definitely stay away from the drop bracket lifts.

 

So not true. I put 285/75R17 tires and didn't have to trim any part of the fenders, body, cab mount (I only had to remove the air dam). All what you say is only true of kits without drop brackets.

You forgot breakover angle (makes a huge difference there too).

 

Fear mongering - what on earth are you talking about? Lifting a F150 4" to 6" may make sense - I don't know - but lifting a Tacoma that much for 33s does not - and it absolutely does change the physics - a 4" to 6" lift will change the center of gravity significantly. What is this business about cutting the cross member - where did that come from? - what are you even talking about? And who suggested spacers ? So you like BDS and Fabtech . . . good for you - everybody has their favorite. You need to calm down.

 

You didn't specifically mention spacers or crossmembers, but that is the general attitude here on the forum. And no, it does not change the physics of lifting a truck whether its an F-150, Tacoma, or any other make/model. A higher lift gives you more clearance, and raises your CoG just the same. It's a trade-off between those two. The higher CoG can be compensated for to an extent with wider wheels, but at 4" lift it's not an issue.

Drop brackets do solve the issues of poor front suspension geometry (and the problems associated with it) brought on by stuffing big shocks under there and trying to crank them up to 3½", 4", or more lift (how many times do you see it asked "How bad is it if I go over 3" lift?" or some variation of that? 2" isn't enough for some people). But with all the parrots out here repeating things about DB kits that simply are not true, it makes it difficult for anyone to find factual information on them.

Cutting a crossmember is a requirement for the front axle housing to fit after it is lifted (and is something I always make clear to people). Every DB kit comes with a new much sturdier crossmember that replaces this. If you save the cut piece, it can always be welded back in should one decide to change direction with their build. Beyond that, these kits have very much to offer for the offroader that needs them.

 

allthough technically true because the rear diff doesn't get raise. you cant just act like the rest of the truck doesn't have its clearance gained. also db lifts that op wants do help clear tires easily.

 

I think we are misunderstanding each other here but let's not accuse others of fear mongering when our opinions differ. I get it you do not agree with the "general attitude" on the forum concerning off road mods . . . actually in a way I agree - I have seen a lot of bad advice on this forum for sure. One of my biggest pet peeves is the attitude of "how I have done it or what brand of suspension or tires etc. I like is the only smart choice." Keep in mind the OP is asking about using his Tacoma as a DD and to do moderate rocky trails - that is exactly the trails I do here in NC almost every weekend.

You are right - the laws of physics apply equally to F150 as they do to Tacomas - my point being Ford people may go around lifting their trucks 6" - good for them . . . I guess, and maybe they have ways to compensate for the high CoG. Honestly I don't see any 6" lifted F150 out on the trail though. But everything that I have read, researched, been told ect. indicates getting upwards past 3" for Tacomas is not a good idea for many reasons - CoG just one as well as the stress put on suspension parts etc. So yeah we disagree that a 4" lift IMHO is an issue for a Tacoma DD that wants to only do moderate rocky trails. 2 to 2.5" is what is recommended, actually ideal when talking about going with 33s - again I get it - you don't agree - but it works for me and many others in Tacomas as well as other Toyotas ($Runners etc.) based on advice from some pretty experienced off roaders. I have gone on some difficult rated trails and over some difficult obstacles with a 2" lift and 33s albeit with some pretty good knowledgeable spotters. Moderate trails are a piece of cake with a 2" lift and 33s - that's all I am saying. And there is more to clearance than simply suspension lift, wheels and tires have a major role to play.

Again keep in mind what the OP is asking. Why are you bringing up drop brackets at all - the OP is asking about setting his Tacoma up to to be a DD and do some moderate trails with 33s not to be a rock crawler. The OP does not have to stuff huge shocks and springs under his rig. 2-2.5"is plenty for what the OP wants to do without causing issues with his suspension geometry.

This is waaaay to extreme. No you do not need DBs let alone to cut the cross member to lift a Tacoma 2-2.5" to fit 33s. You are getting into BIG lifts for huge tires to do some serious rock crawling - that is way outside the scope of what the OP is asking.

 

it was op himself that wanted 4-6" of lift not 2.5 or 3"...

 

True about db lifts clearing larger tires

 

It is possible our misunderstanding is over the OP's description of "moderate rock crawling" and what we view that to be (and is why I said above maybe he should clarify what trails he considers to be moderate).

To me, Miller Jeep Trail near Frazier Park, CA, and Gold Mountain Trail above Big Bear CA are "moderate rock crawling", both of which I've recently been on. It certainly is possible to run these trails with less than 4" lift / less than 33" tires, but you're going to have a far easier go of it if you aren't dragging parts of your undercarriage all the time.
I realize some here probably haven't been on trails like these, so maybe they are wondering what "extreme rock crawling" is like? Check this one out (of course I've no intention of taking my Tacoma there).
(Videos are just random examples of each I found on Youtube)

OP here should better describe his use case (maybe find his own favorite trail on Youtube and post a link). That, or put this whole entire thing to rest by saying he's not going to cut his crossmember.

Thats the issue, what people read on forums and social media and what is reality are not always one & the same. Its like anything else , fear (in this case, of the crossmember) causes someone to say something negative about something, and as that gets passed down to the next person, more and more things get added by each individual repeating it. Eventually we get to where we are now where almost everyone is saying the same (untrue) things about it.

Mine has a highly modified RC DB kit with Fox DSC shocks at each corner setup for about 4.5" lift (25.5" front hub-to-fender). The truck rides much better than it did stock (which really ain't saying much, those TRD Sport shocks were awful). Handling is maybe a bit for the worse, only because I took the sway bar off. I'd be more than happy to hook up with anyone local to So Cal who is curious and take them for a ride in it.

 

Daily Driver + 4" lift and 35 tires......

 

although you may have done those trails with a db lift, I would not say that having a db lift provided much benefit or even to recommend one to OP for trails as such. Typically db lifts are for street driven trucks. They are not meant to hold up to “rock crawling”. There is a reason why lots of people say this as well it’s not just because they don’t have one on their truck. There are unnecessary parts attached to your suspension that can bend and snap… the minimal gain in body clearance is not worth it on the trails to me. You are also more prone to a roll over those few inches will make a big difference on a moderate trail. Not trying to bash your build at all I’m sure it is a rad truck and if you like it and it works for your needs that is all that matters . But I would only recommend db for street trucks. Some nice skid plates and sliders would be more than ideal for most to counteract the “lost BODY clearance” from not using a DB lift. Everyone has their own wants and needs so OP can use all this info on the different types of suspension lifts to make his own decision. I highly recommend checking out some forums on accutune off road website they have great info on different types of lifts and a great suspension selection once you choose one you prefer.

 

What the OP wrote: "I will be using the truck as a daily driver and to go on moderate rocky trails and sand"

I will defer to your expertise when it comes to rock crawling and the benefits of BIG lifts i.e. >4" , DBs and cutting out cross members and so on.
Running off road trails (specifically rocky ones rated moderate) , rock crawling, overlanding, dessert racing etc. are all different and require different approaches. The problem here as I see it is the OP is talking about having a daily driver in which they can do some moderate off road trails and some sand and you are talking rock crawling which is something completely different.