Wisconsin Tacomas and bad financial advice

And... you see a problem there?

 

So, they have Moog balls. What kind of life are you seeing with them? Any option for Uni Balls?

 

I can't afford this forum anymore.

I joined BWW ,,,,

Big Wheel World

I have experience at axle removal on a Big Wheel.
Brakes, just wear shoes.
Doesn't need a winch.
Steering is manual.
20s fit on the rear.
No frame rust.
No hood scoop to block my vision.

 

The second gen guys I’ve wheeled with on IFS and 37’s could pretty much break/bend tie rods on command in the rocks. Like carry 3-4 spares level of breakage. The fix is going to a clevis on the rack, a heim for an inner, 1.5” tube and then a GM 1 ton outer.

CV’s were about an every trip thing too. They could swap in about 10 minutes because it happened so often.

 

No need to apologize! We look forward to living vicariously through your build.

Not at all. I just need a second job.

 

I think the real takeaway here is that @pearing needs trailing arms.

 

No uniball. I replaced mine with OEM LBJ, I import them from Japan. Have about 5k miles on them and probably 1000 trail miles. Still seem happy.

 

@pearing for a rear axle, that's a complicated question depending on your end goals...

A 14 bolt is the lords axle. Relatively cheap to find in yards, super easy to setup gears in, and is as strong as they get. Downsides are that they are huge, so they require a shave to not make them a total rock anchor. And it still will be a rock anchor with anything less than a 37 or 40 since you're carrying a 10.5" ring gear.

An FZJ80 rear is a full float, fabbed housing axle that is a 9.5 ring gear that can be found for a couple hundred bucks in yards too. Downside is that they are 63.5" WMS compared to a stock second gen WMS of 64.5". Not a huge deal if you aren't outboarded on rear shocks and stuff.

A Ford 9" based rear is the fun option that you can choose your own adventure on with fabbed housings, unlimited gear ratios, and big strength and clearance. They require some research to put together though since everything is customizable.

D60 rears are the worst of all worlds. It's not as strong as a 70 or a 14b, but still heavy, plus they are a huge pain in the ass to set up. Stock housings require boring out to fit 35 spline axles. Or the aftermarket options are extremely expensive.

 

I mean, I’m not saying don’t spend it. Just saying spend more on a bigger kit lol

 

I looked a little bit for the FJZ option but I did not find affordable ones. 14 bolt is great I agree. What do you mean by shave? My brother builds race cars-Fords- and he would be a source for the 9 inch stuff.

 

Looks like they aren't as cheap as they used to be. $500-$600 is the going rate for one.

A shave is cutting the bottom of the cast section out and welding in new plate to increase ground clearance.

https://www.tmrcustoms.com/collections/14-bolt-shave-kits/products/15-bolt-conversion-complete-kit

The world is truly your oyster with 9" based stuff

https://trail-gear.com/axles/rock-assault-9.html

https://www.spidertrax.com/products/spider-9

 

9” out of a ford econoline van is my vote. Cheap, easy to find. Throw a truss on it and you’re gtg

 

supported

 

Reinforce your cam tabs. Everyone should. Mine are destroyed and it's.... Annoying.

Hammer hangers or someone's equivalent.

CVS: relatively easy to replace, not worth spending big bucks to move the weak point somewhere else. Don't floor it at full lock and you'll be fine. Maybe.

Bring tie rods if you're running 37s.

A lot of breakage happens when one component gets upgraded massively and other things are left alone. The other thing that causes breakage is silly driving. For example, flooring in while in full low to get up over an obstacle, this can end up having your front end spinning when you come back down and that is instant CV axle. Just an example, I'm not saying anyone in here is a bad driver or anything, when you're on the trail shit happens.

 

shock loading is when things tend to go kaboom

slow and controlled is the way to go but you dont get near as make likes on the bookface

 

So that means add a crawl box to the list.

 

exactly!

we could make this way easier and say for all your mod needs, shop the @Supr4Lo build thread

you better go get some affiliate links lol

 

Hammer Hangers and full cam lower area reinforcement done. I carry an axle. War Hammer tie rod supports for what they are worth.

 

That's why people call me Captain slow but I'm not the guy getting towed off of Trails. So...

For example, this past ATR, every single second gen in the group had issues. Big issues.

None of the third gens did. A lot of that boils down to age of the truck but also the driving style. Ironically enough one of the 3rd gen guys is a full send guy and one of the second gen guys is triple sticked and he knows all about the crawl gears. Lol

I've got the Warhammer tie rod upgrade on mine and I don't know if they have helped but they definitely haven't hurt and I've never been to tie rod while Wheeling so there's that. Plus they're super easy to maintain and deal with.

 

^ He also carries a 35mm........socket