1998 Tacoma Intermittent Crank No Start Issue

Hey this is my first time posting on the forum hopefully this is in the right place.

The truck is a 1998 Toyota Tacoma 5spd Manual 4x4 with about 210,000 miles

I’ve been troubleshooting this problem for awhile now and I can’t find any other forums that have solved it. I have owned this truck since June and I have probably run into this issue maybe 6 times now? The truck will start every morning or whenever I start it for the first time of the day but sometimes after coming back and starting it it will just crank and sputter but not start. I’ve had this happen from a cold start, hot start, or die out while driving after 10-15 minutes and it won’t start til the next day. Whenever I come back and start it it will start up perfectly and run.

The only correlation I have found it that it happens more frequently when the outside temperature is above about 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Today I started it and it was over 90 outside then let it warm up and it was idling and running fine. I let it sit for about 2 hours and it started perfectly again. After about another hour I started it and let it come to operating temperature and it was still idling great at about 500RPM with the AC running, but the moment I put it in reverse and touched the accelerator it sputter and died and I was stuck with it just cranking and not starting.

it has thrown engine codes and I have replaced all the parts it was throwing codes about thinking it would fix it and then I would drive for 2-3 weeks thinking it was fixed just for it to happen again.

So far I’ve replaced the MAF sensor, Crankshaft Position sensor, both coil packs, spark plug wires and plugs, fuel pump and filter. All parts have been NGK or Denso besides fuel filter that is AC Delco.

The most recent time it wouldn’t start I disconnected the TPS and the MAF separately to see if it made any difference and it did not. But now after I came back the next day it’s showing code P0120 for throttle position sensor A circuit. I’m not sure if me disconnecting the TPS caused the code or if it is failing. However from what I’ve read online I don’t think it’s the source of my issue? I will try and include a video of it cranking but I’m struggling right now with uploading it on my phone :/

My idle has always been low around 300-500RPM so I was thinking of cleaning the IAC and seeing if it makes a difference. Other than TPS and IAC I am at somewhat of a loss as to what’s next.

Maybe a solenoid or relay that could cause this? i wanted to post and see if there were any common things people have dealt with? I appreciate any input .

 

Welcome!!

lots of potential fixes for this issue

try searching “hot no start”

when I got my taco with 212k…..after a drive…..crank no start
RM injectors from Motorwest(sent my Bad OE’s to them) rectified my issue

 

Ok thank you I will see what I can come up with. I’ve tried searching some forms but haven’t found a solution to my exact problem yet.

Another thing is that the idle will sometimes go down to 300 after sitting at a stop but won’t stall. Then it will blip itself back up to 500 and if you stay long enough repeat. Not sure if this is related at all or another problem for a future me

 

NP
When searching you will probably run into several of my threads trying to isolate the no start issue
Lots of help here!!

let everyone know what engine you have too

 

Hah yeah I think I already saw a post by you before making this one. Ah yes forgot the engine! it’s the 2.7L 3RZ.

Could I ask what lead you to the fuel injectors? Or how I could potentially rule them in or out as the fix? I’ve seen a good couple threads about the coolant temperature sensor being an issue and putting the truck into cold start mode and flooding the engine.

 

maybe try a new gas cap.....

 

100% change CTS firstly
After I changed mine, I was 120% confident I solved the issue
NOT

 

Update

Currently stranded at a friends house as this truck is still giving me issues. I drove here no problems and then let the truck sit for about 3 and half hours and when I tried to leave it’s just cranking and sputtering with no codes.

Since I last posted I have got my fuel injectors cleaned by Motorwest (1 injector had a bad coil and was replaced), replaced the TPS which removed the DTC and check engine light I had for it, and the coolant temperature sensor that broke when I removed it.

After all of these replaced parts that were broken thought I had figured it. But I am currently in the same situation where the truck just cranks and sputters but won’t turn over. It sounds like it might be misfiring while cranking? I will try and link a video of what it sounds like.

I’m running out of stuff to replace at this point and now wondering maybe camshaft sensor? Or just something I haven’t thought of or found online?

Any help is appreciated!

 

I second changing the coolant temp sensor. I had similar problems and it fixed them right up. No codes, cheap to replace with OEM

 

Ah yeah I worded that poorly.

I did replace the coolant temp sensor and it broke when I pulled it out. But that was not the issue :/

Here’s a video of it cranking.
https://youtube.com/shorts/c9fFlVTNFjI?feature=share

 

Update

I managed to get the truck started by bump-starting it down a hill. It ran super rough, and the air smelled like fuel, so its running rich. Once it idled roughly up to operating temperature, it smoothed out and would rev just fine. The only thing I noticed on the drive home was it stumbled a little bit under load.

Im guessing this has not fixed my issue, but I will have to wait until tomorrow to do anything more.

 

Have you tested the TPS and IAC?
Otherwise, I’d check the fuel pressure, sounds like a dying fuel pump.

 

Had similar..... hot no restart, completely random, and had to sit for a while.

Finally figured the head gasket allowed cyl 3 and 4 enough water to foul out the plugs.

When I ran into that no restart.....I would always change those two plugs, and she'd fire right up..

when you get that choking.....its either water, fuel, or both fouling plug(s)

sometimes the 2rz/3rz can overcome the water and burn it off.....if its just one cylinder


OF course a new head gasket was the ultimate fix

 

The TPS is a new Denso part, but I have not tested it. I pulled off and cleaned the IAC with intake cleaner a few weeks ago, and it didn't seem damaged. The fuel pump is also a new Denso pump; maybe the regulator lets too much fuel bypass it? I have not checked the pressure in the fuel rail yet.

 

Interesting. From how the truck seems to me, I think it's over-fueling. There's a pretty heavy fuel smell, and I did find the plugs fouled and smelling like fuel when I pulled them, but I wasn't sure if that was my issue or a consequence of the truck cranking a lot and flooding. After blowing out the cylinders, getting the plugs dry, and reinstalling them, it still just cranked. What led you to the head gasket? Just every time you would change the plugs around, it would start?

The other thing I've noticed now is that the last 2 times it hasn't started, it has been cold outside rather than hot, roughly 50 degrees or below. I wonder if the ECU is over-fueling for a cold start and causing issues.

One last thing I should add about the truck is that I recently checked my Valve clearance, and it's pretty bad. Specifically, cylinder 4's tolerance is far under spec on exhaust and intake. Im not sure if that could cause my issue or if it's just another thing to add to the fix-it list :/

 

Never mentioned if your RR’d CTS
??

that video sounds exactly like my taco b4 I changed CTS

 

Coolant Temp Sensor? I replaced it and found the old one broken, but that didn't fix it. From videos online, it does sound the same as a bad coolant temp sensor, so maybe the replacement I got is bad?

 

The sensor at back of head?
Mine 2RZ
Not positive where on v6

 

Funny you should mention “bad new sensor”
IMO…….possible bc mine newly installed CTS failed after few months

thanks to members here
The issue was solved

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/no-start-after-coolant-flush-new-rad.839087/

 

Yeah, mine is a 3RZ. I replaced the sensor on the back of the block, not the one in the front that sends the temperature to your gauge. The sensor broke when I removed it, so I thought I had fixed the issue, but apparently not.