Need a good wire routing in engine area to frame

Let me preference by saying im not an engine/mechanic by any means so forgive the ignorance.

I need to run a small wire direct from battery to the bed for some lights. My plan is to go down the drivers side as that is where the majority of my factory wiring is underneath so i will attach to that. Then come up into the bed by the tail light area.

Im good with everything from the tail light area up to about the driver's wheel well. Im just trying to pick out an ideal location to drop down from battery in the engine area to the wheel well without exposing to high heat / vibrations / suspension stuff pinching / whatever other hazards may lurk. I thought i would see something ideal to follow down but dont.

Everything i have done previously (amp / tailgate lock /etc)has always gone thru the firewall/grommet into the cab so this is a little different (ie...amp / tailgate lock /etc). Sure im overlooking something simple.

Anyone got a good suggestion of an area to drop down?

 

Just a thought, wouldn’t you want to go into the cab and install a switch before the battery? Then just pick up power from there?

 

I was going to use a switch near tailgate so i can turn on/off without having to hop in the cab etc. I do a lot of night fishing so it be handy to be able to turn on for a minute or two to grab something from the bed. I dont really need a tailgate activated version or anything automatic with other lights etc.. just a plain ole manual switch.

 

Bring it up at the firewall and run it close to the fender inside the engine bay. Tucking it under the plastic in that area. Then run it horizontally to the battery (with a fuse)

 

Follow the factory wiring down one of the sides. It’ll be close to the exhaust on either side

 

Run it between the battery and fender and right under the master cylinder. Plenty of room and you’ll link up with the factory harness right about there.

 

I just did this while installing a gate Pop&lock. I installed a power block with a #6 2’ long connection from battery yo power block. I then connected a fuse connection from one of the 6 positive back to the bed where I installed a switch to bed lighting. I also ran a negative connection to the bed the same way that also came off a power block connected to a battery frame connection shared with the battery.
I think I used 12 gauge back to the bed wiring

 

No matter how you route it be sure to fuse the wire near the battery.

 

I am planning on the same setup. I would like more lights in my topper and be able to turn on and off, and dim, while inside the bed or standing at the tailgate. I also plan a selector switch for the power input so I can run them from the truck battery or an external power pack.

 

I do have a fuse inline. But for sure, good advice for anyone following!

I more mechanically challenged than i am electrical but no engineer in that dept either

 

This is the way. Was able to snake it thru with a piece of stiff wire to help guide it out along side the factory. Much easier than i thought after initial look.

 

Im not concerned with dimming etc but surely doable. Hell you could probably run a esp32 w/ wled and go crazy but is more than i need.

Im running these FCOB's:

$25 BTF-LIGHTING FCOB COB LED Strip IP67 Waterproof Flexible High Density Uniform Diffused Neon Light 16.4FT DC12V Natural White 4000K 480LED/m CRI90+ for Indoor Decor(No Adapter or Controller)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CNRDB139?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

Although the ip67 12v 6000k version of these which appear to be out of stock or not listed anymore. Im sure btf has them direct somewhere but the sites a mess. Has a nice diffused light so no individually showing leds which is why i elected to diy vs a premade kit. They looked great in testing.....just got finish the wiring and switch.

 

For a single channel PWM based off a potentiometer setting a ATTINY85 is plenty. To get the selector switch option built in I will DIY it. I am still debating how many power conversions are needed and where to do it since the truck supply will be at 12V and my external battery pack has USB outputs. And the Mcu and pot will likely run at 5V.

 

If you have the trailer plug connection, you already have sufficient power to the tailgate area for some lights. Use the power lead of the 7-pin connector. Easy peasy with a fuse at the 7-pin. This is what my top installer did with the interior lights for the top.