Rear Window Shattered, Replacing with slider

No voltage with a multimeter. I'm thinking the relay terminals may not be wired and trying to figure out the easiest way to access it. The whole thing can come out but is held on by bolts 8” down a tight spot that would be difficult to get the bolts in/our with my big hands. The terminal insert wiggles so is a sepwrste part but not sure if it can come out through the top.

 

I was able to take out the bolts with a flexible pickup tool but it looks like to get it out will be a pretty big job as all the wires need to be disconnected. Not easy to get to so is going to take some thinking and removal of everything around it unless there is an easier way to access the wiring inside.

 

I should have thought to look down in the terminals. The wires are crimped in there and the ones I can see seem to match the colors on the wiring diagram. My electrical schematic reading is pretty rusty, going to see if I can figure out which terminals on the relays I can use the multimeter. Looks like the two marked 5 should have power with the engine on and but will see if I can wrap my head around how the relay works and how to test each of the terminals

 

#5 is always energized (batt).
With engine ON- check wire presence and voltage on connector AJ3 position #13.

 

I'm not positive if I am looking at it right but there is a connector under the glove box but the illustation doesn't show the fuze box its plugging into. It is behind the airbag and not sure how to get to it. Haven't been able to find any videos on the trim and face pieces being taken off a 4th gen.

 

If you can't test the location, then use the relay terminals to test that fused ignition is provided:

 

Remove the passenger's kick panel, and look above the connectors that are visible in that location.

 

This is what it looks like with the passengers kick panel removed. Looking up, passenger air bag is in front of the connectors so only visible from below.

 

I think I'm doing some thing incorrectly as I removed the tailgate relays which are the same relay and tested the voltage there too, no reading.

 

Sorry, here is the picture.

 

Black wire to unpainted surface or position #4 on relay slot.

 

Also, very important, this:

 

Thank you, I wasn't doing it right. Just watched some videos to better understand relays and testing. Both relay sockets gave power, control and load (center pin) are getting 12V so looks like that part is working. So I think that points to it being an issue with the switch since motor isn't getting power.

 

Did you verify with vehicle ON, that there is in fact power to relay terminals #1?

 

If that were so, with a wire insert into rear of connector of overhead console, (jumper wire) 21 to 1 (window opens) then swap to 22 to 1 (window closes) You can use the DMM probes.


P.S. Terminal numbers on connector is looking into the connector, not the wire side.

 

well that's the issue, no wire for 21 and 22. I thought everything was there but missed that. So I'd have to figure out the closest place I could splice into or run wires from there.

Did you find a diagram for the connector that goes into the fuse box? I'm thinking I can jump that connection to at least test it and then figure out running the wiring to the switch from there.

 

Location is bottom of passenger's side sail panel.

 

The missing wires are grounds. No need for fuse IGN power.

 

Another solution:

 

I think that is what I will need to do. Looks like I didn't understand this too well before I started but at least I have a better understanding of how my truck is put together. I pulled off the trim pieces and located AJ3 and WJ1, from the picture I couldn't that AJ3 was right next to the door so wasn't looking in the right spot. Doesn't look like they have the right wires so new wires would need to be run all the way from the relays to the switch.

If I'm following I’d need to remove the fuse box and access the underside of the relay socket to hook in the wires to the #2 position.