3.4L supercharger

When I upgraded to the AEM 340 fuel pump and new FMU AND had the injectors cleaned at that point I didn’t need methanol anymore for fuel and then was able to run the 1.9” custom pulley at 6k feet.

if you do all these 3 things it will definitely put you in a great place to avoid pinging.
But a stand alone will definitely fix ping issues

1) FMU
2) clean injectors
3) high flow fuel pump.
4) 2 step cooler plugs

 

I have almost the same setup, heavy 33s auto trans, intake and exhaust. Water methonal almost completely fixed my pinging. I think that and a regear would fix your pinging and bring back your mpgs. I have a glowshift afr/boost gadget combo. I'd also look at a trans temp gauge.

 

I’m honestly not looking to get a ton of boost or extra power out of the set up. If the SC wasn’t original to the truck I’ve contemplated on removing it. Im certainly going to look into the FMU and HF pump. I have an old set of injectors from my other 3.4 I could send off to be cleaned. All in all I could *hopefully* eliminate the ping without spending the money for a 7th injector or meth setup. I have a go around for now to avoid the ping. I believe it was ShortMan that mentioned driving with the ECT on. I tried it and I didn’t detect any ping as of yet.

Would the FMU from snpspeed be the way to go?

 

Yes, definitely get the FMU, it’s easy to install and you will get the fuel needed when in boost.
Also always replace the fuel filter

 

Stock timing into boost with a heat soaked supercharger is not ideal. Boost transitions at 2700 RPM need tuning love. Tuning around the MAF also sucks.

You can buy Supra injectors for cheap, eh?

 

I imagine a rising rate FMU and Split Second LSC2-001 (not the unit from the URD kits, no software, tuned with simple pots) would be all some need if their 5vz was already not that pingy. Some others will always need some means of timing retard as well (or meth injection).

 

Got an FMU on sale today. Also all Vortech FMUs are going to be a black finish and not blue moving forward. Called them to confirm today. Would you happen to know about how approximately long of a 5/16" fuel hose length I would need for the FMU install?

 

Where’d you get the FMU? Unfortunately the kit from snpspeed isn’t on their black Friday list.

 

Here with coupon code 10OFF. I'm buying the fuel hose (not sure how many feet yet) and

$12 LAR-ME 5/16" Mini Fuel Injection Hose Clamps, 20PCS Gas Line Hose Clamp, Adjustable Pipe Hose Clip Tube Clamps for Automotive,Agriculture,Plumbing, 1/2"-9/16" Dia

clamps separately.

 

I got my kit from snpspeed and came with everything, you need high pressure hose probably 2 feet but get 3 to be safe and you need fuel injector type hose clamps because of the higher pressure and vacuum line.

 

Ok, I'll say it. Why do you need the FMU? Wouldn't you just plumb your FPR to the supercharger for boost reference? Do older Tacoma's FPR not increase fuel pressure as boost increases? If it's mechanically adding fuel, and not compensated for in a ECM/piggyback fuel table, won't that eventually be trimmed out too?

 

OEM is a 1:1, 1psi of boost = 1psi increase in fuel pressure (when vacuum line is moved per instruction). The Vortech/snpspeed seems to be a 3:1? So in boost the FMU is non linear in increasing pressure making the OEM injectors perform/spray as if they suddenly became higher output injectors at the same duty cycle.

Yes. I posted above I feel at the very least the FMU should be paired up with a Split Second LSC2-001. One still might have ping as the timing would still be N/A OEM ECU. To be a little more nuanced, IMO if my truck was a manual I could get away with this setup as I could easily avoid low gear high boost conditions. Over a certain RPM I'm able to add a lot of timing back to my piggy map, and before I did any mods at all (OEM truck with S/C is how I bought it) I could go WOT without ping, its low gear high boost regions that is so challenging. There are some neat mods here to try and make the auto trans kick down more aggressively but none of that was enough for my setup (though I need to get a transgo programming kit installed, that might just make the kick down aggressive enough). Better yet maybe on this long weekend I'll actually get the AEM water/meth installed and add a bunch of timing back in the low gear/high boost region. That region has no balls as I have to pull so much timing despite 11:1 ratios.

 

After installing an aftermarket boost/vacuum referenced FPR, my fuel map needed corrections of roughly +2-5% in the boost regions, which tells me that the stock FPR was not linear. Or my aftermarket FPR is lying. I wish I installed a fuel pressure gauge and made some observations before I replaced the stock FPR.

 

FMU works only in boost, stock fuel pressure is 43psi, FMU 3:1 will raise that up up to 70 psi as shown here by snpspeed.
He did a test on the 5vz, so the 270cc injector turns into a 350cc injector and that’s why you need a high output fuel pump.
It works actually very well. I have probably close to 200k on snpspeed FMU. Before In had the trd FMU before but it was inconsistent

 

I imagine there can be a lot of variance between units, designs, age etc. Worn springs, diaphragms changing elasticity, gunk build up etc. but a 2-5% STFT isn't that big.

There was a Lexus IS300 turbo kit from Turbo East called the "S1" kit. It was the first "affordable" kit for the IS300 at that time and a big way they got the cost down was that the tuning was done solely with a RRFPR (rising rate FPR) and a little black box that was simply resetting the ECU fuel trims, maybe merging o2 signals etc but no actual fuel or timing adjustments.

With the IS300 with a T4 medium to large'ish turbo you could pull this off. All the boost would be in open loop and the OEM ECU in open loop would run great boosted air fuels especially with a RRFPR helping the injectors keep up. OEM knock sensors and timing retard was also really good.

For whatever reason our truck's OEM ECU LOVES it some closed loop. We have to run piggys that skew the o2 signal OR run standalones.

 

If adding an FMU and mechanical boost gauge that's teed off to the FPR. Does it matter if the FMU vacuum line is teed before or after the boost gauge tee to the FPR from the supercharger boost port?

 

Shouldn't really matter, but I would do it before since proper fueling is more important than a boost gauge.

 

I figured and that makes a lot sense. Thank you!

 

Would there be any issues installing an FMU and driving without an upgraded high flow fuel pump for a short period of time before I can pull the bed to install the pump? Or do both things need to be installed at the same time?

 

You can add the FMU anytime,