Southeast GX Broverlanding and BS

hmmm. The housing isn’t actually that expensive. What axles are you going to use and I assume the oem backing plate bolts right up?

 

Just stock axles. This whole thing is meant to be a housing replacement with a bigger diff. Everything else bolts up from old axle

 

nice! What do you have invested into it, if you don’t mind me asking?

I priced out a Dana 60 from ECGS and it was about $6200

 

so basically its around $8000. Got the rear diff off ebay for about $600 shipped. $2600 or so for the axle housing. then $5k for the regear, and locking the front and rear diffs. that doesnt really count the small things like seals, sealant, diff breather extension.

got the diff into the housing today. what was awesome was putting the sealant down for the gasket and picking the diff up and realizing you put the 2 longer studs in the wrong hole. so had to swap those around to the right places and then drop everything down. based on the instructions for the permetex sealant, letting it sit for a few mins before dropping the diff is what is suppose to happen anyways. so yay i guess.

 

About what I expected. I’d probably just do the D60. I’ll need the extra width anyway to match the LT front.

should be able to sell my 8.2 and recoup some of the cost.

 

Did a zero point calibration today. Too impatient to find a place where I could do the reset and drive 25mph straight for 10 seconds. This was sketchy with a block wall less than 50' away but got er done!

 

After being late to work and $265 dollars later.

 

Take it back and get a group 27F

 

got the axle installed and wired up. however, while removing the stock housing, the driver side shock was completely collapsed. no rebound in it at all. It also was stuck on the housing and i ended up cutting the stud off and while i was pressing out the stud from the shock, I fucked up the heim joint. so ordered new shocks for the rear.

I also need to touch up the housing with some paint. I scratched it up pretty good getting it in. also, ratchet straps are a god send. used them to hang the axle while i had to adjust the jack and jack stands at times.

 

Hard to be picky when I’m stranded at work on a Sunday. Only difference I saw between the 24 and 27 was the reserve time with the 24 having less. Not really something I’m worried about, who just sits there with accessories running and the vehicle not? God gave us alternators for a reason.

 

Word

grab a voltage booster so it’s charging at the correct volts otherwise you’ll end up with 20% less capacity and CCA.

 

I’ll look into that.

 

I installed a booster from HKB (link below) based upon a recommendation from @crashnburn80. I like that it is adjustable.

https://www.hkbelect.com/product/388-mk4-adjustable-alternator-voltage-booster-2006/

 

i put the ford diode in mine and i get over 14v and keeps the battery nice and topped off

 

Kinda on the fence about all this, according to my scanguage I’m already getting 14.1-14.2 normally. Is the extra .3-.5 volts worth the money of a booster?

 

It's worth it if you want the battery to last more than a few years. 14.5-15VDC is best, with 14.6 or 14.7 being ideal. You can limp it along by putting the battery on a float every so often.

 

10-4. I appreciate the clarification.

 

Weather finally got decent enough to change the oil in this pig.

11,939 on this OCI.

 

GX people. I know little to nothing about these. Please enlighten me. I recently sold my Tacoma so I’m looking for a replacement that will serve as my daily driver (45mile commute daily).

Not a lot of information on this one beyond what’s in the listing. What should I ask the seller that may be GX specific questions? Or should I be looking elsewhere to begin with?

 

Rust (though it says there isn't any)
Coolant valley leak
Trans / fluid condition