Diesel swapped Tacoma, but questions first.

Hello everyone. My name is Dave, and I'm addicted to swapping VW diesels into vehicles.

I have two currently; an AMC CJ7 and a Jeep XJ. I'm really considering doing a Tacoma, but I'm not as well versed in the basics with them, like I am with the two Jeeps. I also drive a 18 Tundra, but since I finished my XJ, she's been sitting for the most part.

In any case, I was hoping I could ask questions and figure out a few things. First I plan to swap out the Tacoma manual trans for a Jeep AX15. My reason for this is that the AX15 adapters are cheaper, and made in the US. I have two of them in my Jeeps currently. So regardless if it's the 4 cylinder or the 6 cylinder version, it doesn't matter. My biggest questions stem around the differences in the Tacoma when we go from the 4-cylinder to the 6-cylinder. Here goes.

1. Were the axles different between the two engines? Model numbers for the 4X4?

2. What about the transfer cases, were they different as well? Models?

3. What is the "weak" point in the drive lines? I run about 225 hp and 350 lb ft, so it there's something I'd like to address it when I build it.

I figured these are the biggest concerns I have at this point. I've started looking, but don't want to jump on until I have a little more information. Thanks in advance!!

BTW this is the XJ: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q6GW9Dg-Pp8
and the CJ (older video): https://www.youtube.com/shorts/aeWz6kdMp_k

 

The tcases are the same for all, the axles are not the same model to model and differ in the size of pumpkin and type of diff in the rear. The TRDORs have an e-locker, earlier Sports have a mechanical LSD, later Sports and IIRC 2WDs have a very good electronic (brake actuated) LSD. If you're doing a full conversion you may want to go with an air locker.

The weak spot in the driveline is the CV axles, there are beefier options than factory spec but the consensus is that CVs are good "fuses" as they are trail swappable. People run higher than what you're talking with regular CVs.

A good place to start reading what people put into these trucks for big builds is to cruise solid axle swap and SUA builds.

ETA: the rears on these trucks are surprisingly robust.

 

Thank you so much for the reply. I was doing some research in the meanwhile, and saw that there are different ring gear sizes, and ribs that indicate what axles they are. From the little research it seems like there are folks pushing a little more than what I'm planning to in the 4 cylinder rear ends, so that gives me the warm and fuzzy.

I guess the next steps are to see how ABS works, and if I can disable it entirely. I would like to eliminate the factory ECU (if I can). I think it's probably best to choose a truck and then start looking into the schematics.

Thank you again for the reply.

 

ABS csn be disabled relatively easy or even tied to a switch, there are a few threads about it. These trucks also have electronic traction control (TRAC and ATRAC) which engine regulate as part of their function. Generally with a swap like yours expect to need a full aftermarket ECU and deal with a lot of routing around/through/on top of factory wiring and ECU functions.

 

Truthfully I plan to complete eliminate everything, other than the bare bones of the truck: signals, lights, brake/clutch switch, etc. I will need to see if the HVAC controls are just regular 12V, or CAN or PWM. Same with the cruise control buttons (I would guess they're CAN). It looks like the VSS is found on the transfercase, so I can translate that though a Dakota Digital box. I would eliminate the airbags as well.

The older ALH engines that I use are quite simple to hook up to their ECU. I need a brake, clutch, VSS, 12V, and ground. For cruise control I would need the inputs from the buttons from the stock location, if they're CAN I can make them work (of course along with regular 12V on/off). HVAC is just a 12V signal, through a pressure safety switch, and into the compressor. As far as gauges, I run all independent systems, with alarm states, and a stand alone speedo and fuel gauge (see image below).

Overall I have a plan of attack, I just need to find a truck to attack, lol.

Thank you for the response.

 

I think your plans are great! I think you’ll find most of the answers and people to answer them in other swap threads. This one has tons of info.


https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/ls6-swap-2nd-gen-build-new-3rd-gen.779345/

 

Thank you. Time to start reading, lol.

 

I just saw the Coastie icon on your name. I retired at 20 in 2020 as an MKC. Been living the life ever since. I'm finishing up my first semester at welding school with the Post 911. I already know how to, but the BAH is pretty nice, lol. Semper P

 

This may help as well.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2ed-gen-tdi-swap.808093/

 

Thank you. Best baby diesel engines ever!

 

Just about every issue that could happen did and was fixed. Also links to other builds dealing with wiring, hvac…. Tons of details

I just bought my first welder Friday!

 

I'm on page 7 so far. I've already watched two threads that were linked in the first part. I'm sure there will a ton of info to learn. The biggest hurdle will be finding a decent Taco that they don't want 20K for, lol. I guess the nice thing is I could buy one anywhere in the country, fly out, and drive it back. One of the many joys of being retired.

Oh, and congrats on the welder! I have the Titanium 170 and the Vulcan 205. I have a Hobart plasma cutter, and Sherline lathe and milling machine. I basically have everything I need to make what I want.

 

Not that you’ll learn a lot there, more all the wiring diagrams , signals and get arounds to make things work.


A year ago I totaled a 2nd gen. Found another and flew to Chicago with another member and drove it home.
They’re out there… triple check for rust!!
I have a parts truck in my driveway I got for $600 , cause rust!

Can’t wait to follow your build and see what you do!

 

Oh, I know about rust, lol. It's a cancer.....get it?

I'm still in the planning stages, but I'm on the lookout as well. I'm planning for a trip in February to Costa Rica with my brother and best friend, so it'll more than likely be after that.

I also need to figure out what I will do with my two other swaps. I hate to say, but I tend to agree with my wife that me having 4 cars (three swaps and my Tundra) is a little much. I would never sell the CJ7, but to be frank I love my XJ as well. In fact I just ordered the 2.0 Fox shock for it yesterday. I drive it everyday to class, and if I have to go to Fort Bragg, I'll take it. I drive pretty aggressively and still get 25-28 MPG with a JCR roof rack, front and rear bumpers, with my spare and two roto pax containers. The Tundra gets 14-16 MPG.

We will see. I'm not in a huge hurry.

 

Toyota cast the TOB sleeve into the bellhousing condemning vehicles to be dead with a blown multiple thousands of dollars transmission over a $60 wear item against the design of anyone else who has ever built the design of a manual transmission (it’s one design, that Toyota managed to somehow make their own second fucked up design of)

VW TOB sleeve is replaceable.

VW/Audi is known for diesel engines. Such as 2.5. 3.0. 1.9. Winning LeMans. Etc.
There’s also an adapter for BMW I6 diesel to Tacoma. Popular swap for Land Rovers.

I had multiple VW products. All had less problems than my Tacoma.
My Audi also used strong and articulating Rzeppa CV’s all around. Pretty sure Tacoma uses garbage tripods for half.

for under $7k on a VAG product you get heated auto dimming automatic mirrors and bi xenon headlights, an overhead light, heated seats, and three lights per door.
For over double that on a Toyota you get a cardboard seatbelt.

thems just the facts though

 

Folks just seem to complain about things they may not know much about. I tend to prefer the TDIs over the Mercs and BMW diesels. My XJ was built to fully max out my fuel pump and hit over 400 hp and subsequent torque (about 500-ish). It isn't as much as the OM 605 or 606, but more than enough for what I do with my rigs.

 

or they pull a stupid move and buy the wrong model.

brands have different models. Some are good. Some are bad.

some folks hit themselves in the head with a frying pan, buy the known bad model, then claim the brand is bad.

for example. B6 a4 1.8T. Good car.
B8 a4 2.0T. Probably one of the worst cars ever made in history. Same brand. Very different cars. Not hard to see.


What I wonder is if a 4cyl such as the ALH, even tuned, is good enough being a small liter 4cyl.
Versus v6 diesel
Which comes with more engine weight. Which may or may not be a problem. More power obviously.
Still probably not as heavy as a domestic V8 diesel.

 

Agreed. Like, in my opinion, the 617 is a great motor for the cars they came in, but are bad ideas in swaps. Same with the Kubotas. That's just my opinions though.

With the VW engines, I tend to prefer the older ALH engines. Very similar to the 24V Cummins as they are mostly mechanical with an electric/mechanical injection pump. Additionally you can toss on a fully mechanical pump and will only have a 12V feed to the fuel solenoid. They take more work to make good power (mostly rods and exhaust porting) but with me slightly over 200 hp and 300+lb ft, I can surprise a bunch of newer vehicles on the road that expect it to be slow. Granted, that wasn't my goal, but rather just a side effect. A rather nice one, lol.

 

I've owned a few TDi MK IV Jettas in the past. After a tiny bit of turning from Rocket Chip, I was amazed at how responsive the little whip became. The weak link in that engine was the clutch, even though I was using a VR6 style centerline clutch, I could still get it to slip. I'd be concerned about what size clutch you could adapt to the TDi for use in a Taco. I've seen a few TDi swapped into flat fender Willys Jerps which worked well because the flat fender was a fairly light weight vehicle.

Look at the European and Australian spec'd Taco's with the turbo diesels to give you an idea of what power levels and clutch requirements you will need. As far as T-cases, you will need something adaptable to the Ax15 that has a driver side drop.