1st Gen Haltech ECU Discussion

Ya no doubts in it, just felt it took more trial and error to get it dialed in compared to MAP. But that's just me.

You're using both MAP prediction and transient? Interesting.

 

Officially driving by wire!

Pedal was an absolute bitch but hopefully it'll all be worth it. A floor mounted model might have been easier

 

So is your throttle like 100% after 2% of pedal travel like you wanted it now

 

Sounds like an on off switch to me

 

lol, no, but I like the damping feature, and torque response is gonna be little more linear. Looking into cruise control now though. Seems like I just need to find the "CCS" wire

 

I think what I'll end up doing is keep the default dead(ish)zone of 10% pedal ~= 2% throttle, ramp it up to 100% by 60%, but limit the boost to spring pressure there, and 60-100% will be basically boost control over spring pressure

 

That could be fun to watch a log of. Are you still operating with open loop boost control? At least the pedal responsiveness sounds a lot like stock ones I've encountered. I'm not a big fan of the early deadening but I do like the last 25% of travel to be pretty sharp

 

I think that's what he was battling, maybe boost control wasn't responding right or something and he's trying to counter it with pedal response, IDK. He's always trying something

 

It's always been in closed loop, it just still hasn't settled on long term correction values. It's easy to get to 10-11psi, it's just getting to the 12-15 I have programmed based on RPM that it struggles to reach. Duty cycles are 80-90% now, still climbing. Spool assist was off for a while, but I turned it back on and made my control point offsets really high so it's basically still off

 

Seems like the CC has a double snag... the "Main SW" seems to have more circuitry tied to it that isn't listed, and the outputs are on a +12V base rather than a 5V.
I could use the resistances with a 5V feed but it seems like they wont respond until 12V is present on the source feed.... so I'll need to find wherever that 'Main SW' is and bypass it in order to use the factory steering wheel buttons

 

It takes a lot of fine tuning to dial in closed loop, we spent like 4.5-5hrs just doing pulls to finally get mine steady and my system is more conventional. It won't learn it well on its own, it can really only do some short term and then you can analyze the log to implement the changes. But if your base values aren't close youll chase your tail until the proverbial cows come home

 

Side effect I didn't think about: trans doesn't know throttle position anymore so it shifts assuming a minimum.

So spent a couple hours setting up baseline tables for the HT tonight. Also found out solenoid resistance is 11-16ohm (throws code at 8ohms) and HT output current is 1A, so ya, good thing I planned on going with external FETs

 

Have any of you guys tried rotational idle yet for fun?

 

That seems like a @garetcurry question haha. I haven't but my Elite 750 don't support it natively, have to make it yourself haha. The guys with Elite 2000+ and Nexus ECUs can do it natively pretty easy, sounds like you have a wicked cam.

 

Never heard of it

 

It's mostly for race cars that need to cool down between heats. Idles on ignition cut rev limit, so it'll turn off a different cylinder per cycle but let fuel go through them for the evaporative cooling. Happens to sound pretty cool though

 

Low key I've wanted them to add cylinder deactivation... Would be hard w/o individual O2 sensors though

 

You wouldn't need individual O2s but you'd need some mechanism of decompression in the deactivated cylinders or you'd just have a misfiring engine haha.

 

Wasn't sure which model have it. Sounds awesome. From what I've seen it looks easy to do with the models that can do it.

 

Yeah pretty much flip a switch and she goes into roto idle, not a whole heck of a lot to configure.