Lifting My 3rd Gen Tacoma

IMO @AccuTune Offroad can help set you up
Enjoy OP

 

For sure! I actually contacted them with a few specific questions as well and they were super helpful!

 

33 fit without lift. You can go off road without lift, no problem. If you want rock crawling version, then you will need lot of things to be added to the truck such as lift, armor, bumpers, etc.

If you want 35 or bigger tires, than you need lift or modify the fenders/wheel wells.

 

that look might cause you problems

 

How so? Likely the lift will only be around 2” and I will have a diff drop kit installed as well. I also will not be doing a block or spacer lift or use any sort of spacer on the wheels I get in the future. (All components I know can sometimes cause issues)

 

I'm not sure if a differential drop kit will be needed for your application (2 inch lift).
Perhaps, just a carrier bearing drop and axle shims to eliminate any drive line vibrations.

Cheers

 

I’ll have to look into these more I did not realize there was other methods or requirements to get the driveline straight. Do you have any suggestions for brands or specific parts to use for the carrier bearing drop or axel shims as I have not seen them included in any of the lift kits I’ve seen. Would this also be for the rear of the vehicle including the rear driveshaft for the carrier bearing?

 

More Harm Than Good? Toyota Diff Drop Truth vs Myth - YouTube

 

Thank you I had forgotten about this. Makes me wonder what Toyota does for their pro lifts to keep everything in line.

 

i lifted and got bigger tires just for looks. got TRD lift from toyota (yes i overpaid, blah blah) and have 275/70/17s. very happy with it. think its 2 inch in front and 1 in back to level it out with some raise.

will be hard to get much help on this topic, lotssssss of opinions. good luck!

 

its only 1.5 inches
just diff shocks, coils,
and you can add 265/75/16 tires and get another inch

 

The carrier bearing drop and axle shims are for the rear drive line vibrations that many folks experience after lifting their rig.
As far as I know, nothing is needed for the front end after installing a new coil/spring lift that is only two inches.

I purchased the Old Man Emu carrier bearing drop kit.
Install lift, then measure angles.
After adding the carrier bearing drop (and measuring again), I needed two (2) degree shims to bring the angles back into spec.

Cheers

 

For sure! Nice to hear what everyone does themselves and go from there though! I found it funny that I researched axel shims and carrier bearing spacers and got people advocating for and against both!

 

Thank you for the info! If I may ask why did you not just go with higher angle shims and not use the drop? Also what was your lift height in the rear I believe I’ll go with 1 to 1.5.

 

You don’t need a diff drop.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=47aat1tc6zw

 

If you are going to have a shop do the install, you may want to touch base with them before buying anything. Some shops will not install parts unless they buy them or they may really upcharge to install your parts and not warranty the work (since they don't know the history of the parts, even if you have receipts).

 

on the driver side I just had to bend the pinch weld a little bit. But on the passenger side the bolt was in line with the fender wall and not just the pinch weld. I had to use a long prybar and carefully beat the metal inward with a 3 pound sledgehammer to give the bolt enough room to slide past. It was not easy by any means. Would’ve been easier if I removed my power steering reservoir out-of-the-way. But I chose just to be careful. Might be easier to do it with two people. I have a 17 limited, but it’s third GEN so it should all be the same.

 

I experienced the opposite, the driver's side was the most difficult for me, so the vehicle tolerances can change things - be prepared for anything. A couple of things I learned from my second time removing the UCAs while replacing the bushings. Leaving the passenger long bolt entering from the bottom as it is from the factory - there is just more room going down. The Driver's side bolt I found it best to feed it from the top, so I did not have to remove a brake line joint frame attachment. I also ground off the flange on the bolts up to one of the six bolt flats - this allowed for a bit more wiggle room around the sheet metal.

On my initial UCA install I cut the bolts off. Every time I do something to the truck; I look to see how I can make subsequent work easier. Sometimes the factory puts them together not thinking of how they will be serviced.

 

Did you have to beat the fender wall in? Mine had to be pushed in a good half inch. I’ve not heard anyone else having to do this. Maybe not all trucks are the same?

 

Oh yes, on both fenders on the initial removal. It is very common to have to bend sheet metal for this procedure - that was the first thing I noted when studying the procedure. The ground off bolt flange will help immensely upon the next UCA work, especially on the driver's side as I never did permanently bend the sheet metal to free clear the bolt. i.e. there is still some "spring" to the sheet metal.

No, not all trucks are the same - tolerances.