Possessed 2018 Tacoma

Not sure if this helps but I see the yaw and the tc light on this one
Not sure what's normal and what's not. Not even sure I grabbed the correct data

 

Maybe someone can make sense of it?

 

Another clue. With the values these trucks hold, it would seem pretty unusual to put a '17 through auction unless it was already a problem child.

I think red on the door panels could have been corrected for way less than you've already spent, still with no resolution.

The question is, is it really worth chasing the gremlins when there is another option available?

Best wishes on making a good choice.

 

The 17 I just saw on there website Friday.
I can do the cosmetics, not worried about that. The 17 is listed 3k less than i paid for the 18 so I want the difference from the dealer.
And why would an 18 go to the auction unless it was and is a problem child.

btw, do you ever have any positive comments or are you just a curmudgeon?

 

Settle down, Beavis. You bought a shitshow. Hard to be constructive when you seem to have practiced zero caveat emptor. Research should precede action.

Welcome to the site.

 

Those are the official options, with the caveat that getting a subscription also requires an Tactrix cable (cheapest reliable option) and a laptop to install Techstream on.

There is also this option to take a gamble on

$30 V18.00.008 Mini Vci J2534 for Toyota TIS FTDI FT232RL OBD-2 Diagnostic Cable Until 2023 DTC Firmware Editor V1.4.8 for Toyota for Lexus Support Win XP WIN7 WIN10

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CJV9B3SF/?coliid=I3NKOK0DHBRIBE&colid=3KYGQN8QF1W60

If you can get the right driver for the cable (driver on CD is not necessarily the correct one) and you install on a virtual machine (some cracked versions of Techstream come with a trojan), it would likely be reliable enough for running calibrations.

@tonered could give much better advice on current DYI options than myself.

 

Thanks!

The best drivers are on the Tractrix.com site.

 

Have you checked for codes? Do you have any C codes stored in ABS control module?

 

I've checked over and over including just now and there are no codes.
I did disconnect the battery yesterday for about an hour. And thank the Lord has been driving great the first 30 min I've been in it.

 

Actually you just repeated what I asked, by I got the years backwards. Shame on me.

There are some things to learn here and most have been covered. Learning is positive, correct?

But here is my view. You have a late model modified truck that a mom and pop dealer bought at auction that turns out to have bizzare issues and hacked safety systems. I would be trading that back on the non modified vehicle, even at more cost, and moving on with life. Living in fear of unannounced brake and steering issues popping up must be stressful.

Again, best wishes for your choices.

 

I agree, I'm going to contact the dealer later today to start negotiating the terms.

 

Go deeper if you have a Tractrix working.

From the main menu, hit the Engine ECU / Utility / Reset Memory. Follow the instructions. Same for the Trans ECU.

After those are done, exit the software, cycle the ignition, and idle for a few minutes.

It is a much deeper and faster Reset than the battery disconnect.

 

Completely unrelated but are you an aircraft mechanic?

 

See attached. There are instructions how to check codes in memory. Also, the list of PIDs and their description.

 

intermittent issues would mean to me that something is still triggering the system(duh), but important, because 'something' triggering means that 'something' is thinking that it's doing it's job-- only at the wrong time.

you could also try to long-press the traction control to disable it. if traction control is kicking in (same system as ABS, just used differently), it would also help narrow down what's going on. if the issue stops with traction control disabled, it's not an ABS fault, but a traction control issue--it's a partly petty distinction, but i feel an important one, because it's really a different sub-system that works the same physical components.

if the lock-to-lock method does anything, it very well could be a steering angle sensor.

keep in mind, for both the traction and ABS systems, the truck is measuring and comparing the individual wheel speeds at each corner, but also has a steering angle sensor to account for differences in wheel speed when turning. differences in drastically changing tire sizes, having any bad wheel speed sensors, or an incorrectly-calibrated steering angle sensor can all cause the system to activate at the wrong times with no warning.

because the ABS system was fussed with before you bought it, i'm highly skeptical that the wheel/tire combo is causing the issue, and the previous owner butchered the harnesses in an attempt to fix it before giving up on it and selling it off. i'm extremely suspicious that your truck is working exactly as toyota designed it to, but the modifications are giving the wrong data to the toyota systems.

the first thing i would look at would be that all 4 corners are running identical wheel and tire sizes, and not a 'staggered' setup in offset, width, or height. a staggered setup could very easily cause this. next would be if any spacers are being used-- wheel spacers, especially on the front, could easily change the contact patch to something that would alter turning wheel speed excessively--just be careful, sometimes the spacers are required for brake caliper clearance.

and lastly-- you should discuss with the shop about capturing live data off the vehicle systems. most shops will have the tools to capture vehicle data as the vehicle is being driven, especially in situations like this where it's a consistent issue, but very difficult to repeat consistently. this data should then be able to be used to understand the circumstances that are causing the problem event.

for an example: if the steering angle sensor was bad, in the data-- turning a corner would show the steering wheel rise from 0 degree's slowly to 20 degrees, spike to 300 degrees the other direction, then fall back to 25 degrees. the impossible angle spike would indicate that sensor isn't reading correctly, either due to programming, or a failure of the sensor itself.

in that case, the computer systems would react to the steering angle being impossibly snapped, the wheel speed data would not align(because the truck is going around a corner the opposite way for that moment), so it would apply traction control to attempt to correct the vehicles direction, despite not being needed.

 

vehicles go through auctions for all sorts of reasons.

it really all comes down to the purchasing dealer saying "we don't want that on our lot". i've seen 1-year old vehicles go through auction houses with 500 miles on them. and i've seen official dealers keep 25 year old cars with 250,000 miles on them...

years ago, during high school, i worked at a saab dealer. he sent any vehicle any customers traded in to auction. didn't matter how good/bad it was. then he would almost entirely buy only saab's from auctions...

 

so the good news is that the spikes line up somewhat. so it appears steering related, and as i posted before getting past the first page, is in fact the traction control system, not the ABS system.

the bad news is that you've now got a few other wild cards. an unknown 2" lift, of unknown quality, unknown installation, and unknown parts.

it's entirely possible there's multiple bad parts in the front steering assembly, and one or both front tires aren't even tracking correctly around a corner.

 

so what exactly do you suggest he do? seriously?

are you offering to purchase the truck for your burning man effigy?

 

I appreciate all your insight on this. I honestly haven't driven the truck for two days. When I drove it the other day I had to go down a mildly bumpy wet dirt road about a mile and it went full aneurism on me! All the traction control light on the whole dash went ballistic. I was doing like 10mph on a bypass due to some construction. When I got back to asphalt I just pulled over and restarted the truck. The systems seemed to be acting semi normal even after doing that drive. But I hadn't had the traction control light come on all day prior to that after pulling the battery to reset it. After that I got the little blinky traction control the rest of the way home without it freaking out again. I was going to take it this morning but the last time I drove it in sub 30 cold it freaked out hard about a mile from home. Fortunately I live in an area where it is not heavy traffic so I am able to pull over when needed. After the truck warmed up a little more it was relatively ok. But it was making some weird noises from the engine compartment in front of the clove box that I hadn't heard before.