3rz Header questions

Good evening,
I have a 2003 tacoma 4x4 2.7 auto, and my truck has the steel tube mini header from the factory on it and not the cast manifold that everyone has so many issues with cracking, however at the joint between the upper "mini header" manifold and the mid pipe that goes down to the first cat where the 2 donut gaskets go into I can't seem to keep them sealed up and I'm tired of having to change them out every 6-10 months. I hate the exhaust leak noise and I'm trying to find out if anyone has a good recommendation on a header that will still bolt up to the factory exhaust system and the factory cats and work with all the factory emissions stuff too. I want to get rid of that mid joint and go to something that is 1 piece rather than 2. Anyone with any input or recommendations would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!

 

Buddy Thatt used “new” style oe header

might help/answer some questions of yours


https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/1996-2-7l-4wd-mt-exhaust-manifold-question.777465/

 

This is the style manifold I have now that I am trying to eliminate, I am looking for a 1 piece header that will eliminate that 2 piece one

 

Referencing the photo in the forum provided, this is the flange I can't keep sealed up

 

Saw another thread on here recently where the fellow was missing the hanger that attaches to the back of the engine block and having same issue with leak as result. Part below the blue circle you drew. Maybe check that? I’ve had zero issues with mine.

 

Here ya go:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3rz-exhaust-manifold-y-pipe-leak-fix.846544/

 

I actually replaced that about a year ago, my original one bit the dust from the Ohio winters, but I am still blowing out those gaskets unfortunately. I am almost wondering if I have a warped flange or something of that nature?

 

Just out of curiosity cause I buy OEM gaskets and I have used that orange permatex with them, do I have to replace the studs and nuts with that too?

 

The factory service manual lists the nuts as one-time-use. I think that little extra flange on them is a locking mechanism, designed to deform on installation.

Re-using the studs is probably fine but if they're crusty and you're using a torque wrench you might actually be under-tightening them. Torque values are (unless otherwise specified) based on clean, dry threads. Lubricated threads (including loctite or anti-seize) could cause an over-tightened nut at the spec'd torque, dirty threads could cause an under-tightened nut.

In either case, tightening the nuts a bit more might fix your leak, at least temporarily.

 

I reused studs and nuts at union, new hardware at block. And put gaskets in dry, no permatex. No leaks.
.

 

Its been hanging there since Feb 2022, it was installed on my truck Jan of 2020, it needs a home.

 

Oh man if those fit on a 4port 2rz I’d be interested

 

I'd look into that. I replaced the cracked cast-iron (1995) with the factory "header (2000?) about 10,000 miles ago... Fel-Pro donuts and reused the factory hardware... No leaks...

 

If you go by a muffler shop......they can do spinal fusion...

weld those two pieces into one.....while in place

probably never have to touch it again

 

https://www.lceperformance.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=1041054&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAApzANqkGO07_Ihzit5gadMc-GSwOz&gclid=CjwKCAiAg8S7BhATEiwAO2-R6vKA9QAZ-bbNXaf1MDVRB8V1P0A0cw8LVHbQgBWycnXLdv11yPJd5RoCmNwQAvD_BwE


LCE Performance makes a good one. I installed it on mine and works great, no leaks.