Wisconsin Tacomas and bad financial advice

You shouldn't need more than 3-5 amps for the switch-thats the point of a relay to bypass high power to the switch. I know what I attached here as that is the typical layout for a relay-yours has to be similar-but I am not understanding what you have there.

5-prong-relay-diagram-for-bosch-12v-relay-wiring-diagram-of-bosch-12v-relay-wiring-diagram.jpg 41.1 KB

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3-5amps. I didn't think much was needed to flip the relay over.

What confused me is the initial wiring is set up for a direct to battery connection. In this image.

The other image shows 2 different wiring options for the switch itself. Whether you want the light on the switch to come on with acc or not.

In order to wire to acc, I would have to clip the red wire coming out of the switch and send it to a fused acc source and NOT back to the relay (how the harness is prewired)
Option on the left. v


Thanks for the reply.

 

This here is what I'm talking about. See the lower 'supply wire' goes to Hi/lo ignition....The harness I have had that supply coming out of the relay...that confuses me. how can the relay use the same power source for low and high current?

relays are hard.

 

I th

ink that is so you light stays on if you are low or high beam. My guess

 

You can pick any power source you want for this. It is just the power source for the relay trigger

 

Where is that electrician guy that hosts this page????

 

Like the damn police.
Never around when you need them and always there when you don't.

 

Extremely helpful.
Thanks for the feedback.

 

Daughter has a swim meet in Phillips today. Been out driving some FS roads in a new area for me-south of hwy 70 and east of 13. Really dislike this mentality:

 

Haven't seen one of those, yet.
It's getting personal, now.

Edit: after taking another look...
The vehicle on that sign is, clearly, not a tacoma.
have at it.

 

That was my first thought too! Ride on!

 

If I'm understanding what you're asking, the switch and relay can have the same source. The relay is there to keep the high current load out of the switch. The switch operates the relay, maybe 2-3A, while the relay handles the source for the lights, up to 25A.

For what you're trying to accomplish, the supply to the relay can come from under the hood, where you'll be mounting the relay. The supply to the switch can come from a switched (Acc) source (fuse) under the dash using an Add-a-Fuse tap. The power for the switch light (to go on with dash lights), if so desired, will be a third source.

 

My thoughts exactly.

 

Their diagram is confusing, at best. So, looking at the diagrams again, I think you're looking for Method "B", but the power source wire (red at switch) needs to be cut and tapped to the switched (Acc) power. That cut can be made at the plug going to the switch. You don't need to hook the whole setup to your Acc power, and you probably wouldn't want it that way. IIRC, the only Acc/keyed power under the hood is for the injectors, and I wouldn't fuck with that circuit.

I'm guessing the switch doesn't have independent lighting, like dash lights, only a red led, which would indicate either power is to the switch or that the switch is turned on. I don't know why you'd want the switch to show power when the key is on, only when the lights are in use.

I had a harness for my light bar that was like this, I didn't use it. I made my own harness at first, and eventually went to an AuxBeam controller.

 

I never have used the supplied switches as I get Toyota looking ones

 

What's the worse they'll do, post on Facetoobz that some azzhole is on their trail?

 

Same. Big fan of Air on board switches.

 

Those is them just couldn’t get my age addled brain to find the name

 

Now you tell me. Ha.
That switch was the reason I bought that harness.
Otherwise, I was going to pc it together.

The harnesses are never wired to do what I want them to.

I can always get a new switch.

 

The switch has a couple jumper wires to put either which way, depending if I want the switches light to come on with or without ACC source but I do want the switch controlled by it.

What I'm avoiding is being able to turn these lights on when the truck is off because knowing myself I'll forget to turn them off sometime and end up with a dead battery.

I think I get it now.