Dropped driveshaft on I-49 : next steps?

I already posted about this on the LT thread earlier, but my truck broke down the other week on the way to ID outside Rapid City, SD, dropping the driveshaft and piercing the gas tank and also shattering the bell housing. The truck ran until I turned it off, so the engine should be good. The transmission also shifted fine with no griding and went into 4wd fine, although the clutch wouldn't engage due to the shattered bell housing, and the clutch pedal is all the way to the floor. We were able to roll the truck around like this, so I assume it's stuck in neutral?

How likely is it that the clutch, gearbox, and tcase are all fine given this info - maybe I just need a new bell housing? If I get a new gas rank on there, would there be a way to start the truck and drive it a short distance (maybe floating gears or push starting/using clutch cancel button) to verify the tcase and trans are undamaged? The mechanic at the shop in Rapid City, SD (where it broke down; I'm currently in Idaho) seems to just be guessing the gears are damaged, but I'm thinking maybe the bell housing acted as the fuse in this case.

I can rent a truck and trailer for around 400 bucks to get it back - I'm wondering if that money would be better spent on labor for the mechanic to try just replacing the bell housing, or just getting it back here as is. It's just a bit of an awkward situation so I'm unsure how to proceed.

 

Pics of the damage

 

... and on that note, I am going to go grease my u joints at lunch...

 

The driveshaft is a long story, I’d actually had it replaced recently but it was slightly too short which may have contributed to the failure.

 

too short did it separate at the slip yoke, and then self destruct?

 

Idk it looks like the u joint sheared in the pic

 

yeah, I was looking at that, but assumed it was a result of the remaining yoke and splined shaft experiencing unexpected liberation at speed.

 

Probably so. I think I might’ve lost the yoke on the highway if I’m not mistaken. I did feel the vibration get a lot worse right before it happened. I might’ve been able to catch it if I’d pulled over quicker.

 

I’d get it home and work on it there
Likely cheaper, but most importantly it gives you time to make decisions

 

Bring it home than F with it. Nothing worse than throwing good money after bad in the middle of no where outta your control. Or dump it where it sits if you ain't got the bucks.

 

I did have an offer to buy it as is for $800, but that’s a tough pill to swallow since the sliders and CS190r leaf springs alone are worth that.

 

Im not understanding how dropping your driveshaft completely destroyed your entire bellhousing just behind the engine?
Did the drive shaft stay attached to the front of the trans & got violently tossed around or is the front on a slip yoke & it literally fell out completely?
Hard to see what you got going on from the pics, but rear drive shaft isn't going to strike / impact the bell housing...

The truck still rolls just fine?

 

Yeah, I understand brother the whole situation kinda sucks man. I was reading the daily lunch chat thread Thang about your ordeal with the drives haft and all that. Sorry about your luck man

 

Geeze, kick a guy when he's down for cryin' out loud! Was that the mechanic who offered? If so I wouldn't let him wash my windshield. You can sell body and trim parts for more than that.

I won't expound on my horrible life changing experiences with mechanics but no one I mean no one touches my Taco except the tire and alignment guys, and I watch while they do it. It really depends on your time and implementation, if it were me I'd get it home and work on it myself. Or if you want to off it, it's worth way more than $800.

I would not start it or try to run it under it's own power until the bell housing and drive shaft are resolved. You have loose parts all out of alignment, you're likely to make matters worse.

 

Like others said, tow it home. I’d take everything apart and figure out the damage from there

 

Yea it stayed attached at the front and it was the force of the shaft flailing around under there and smashing the the ground that cracked it. I’m thinking the bell housing acted as the fuse, which may have prevented the gears themselves from being damaged?

And yes we were able to roll it off the truck and around the lot. Line I said I was able to shift through the gears and into 4wd, just no clutch engagement.

 

got it, so the rear diff isn't locked causing it all..
just thinking outside the box..

 

OP you seem to be like me, you get the good problems. Not the proverbial rock and hard place. Mines always between a rock and a rock or hard place and a hard place. You'll get it figured out