4th Gen JBL replacement

Mind sharing the cost? If not could you DM me? I am seriously considering going full in. It is my daily and I do about 20k miles a year and would like a really good sound system. Don’t really know where to start but a dollar figure would be a good start. Sounds like your system is perfect being able to keep the stock head unit. I don’t want to lose that or any of its functionality.

 

You can get an entire quality system installed for $3k or even less that will blow the doors off the JBL, or to my extreme $7k...
I went extreme on sound quality but, I could have spent way more..
I went dsp which added another expense but not needed...
I put a system in my expedition in 00's that was $5K...
You need a amp interface PAC ap4-ty-14, they retail at $379 & I got it for for $300
there's extreme mark-up when it comes to stereo equipment on certain brands if you find the right stereo shop & you start haggling.
I was getting a JL audio amp that retails for $1600, for $1k...
I had 2 shops willing to sell me my sub JL 12tw3d4 that retails for $550, for $380 cash which is what I did...
One of 2 huge expenses / splurge for me was I went with Focal k2 M power 3 way components & the front set retailed for $2400.
The shop that was giving me majority of the deals was willing to sell that at $1600.
After finding my current installer made the decision to just get the remains stuff from him.
I didn't get as an extreme discount but. good enough.
You can get Alpine R component speakers for cheap & they will scream....
Average quality amps are dirt cheap these days, just need to figure out how much you want to put into it.
You can get an Alpine PXE-c80-88 dsp amp that will run your entire system if you stick with a 10" sub, for $650
You can get cheaper good quality amps that will rock the entire system $300-$500...

Takko Tunes will eventually come-out with an entire plug & play option that out the door shouldn't be more than $3k im guessing.
Their behind the seat boxes, "any day now"
I got tired of waiting...
their system will sound plenty amazing for most,

I went with the ground shaker underseat box, regular price is $350 with free shipping, I got a BF deal...
They have multiple options, 10"-12" standard sub, or 10"-12" JL TW3D4 option..
Complete labor for my system was $1500, the cheaper shop option would have been $1000....


If interested & dont know much about it, find some local shops & go visit them, tell them what you think you want...
Ask them to give you their recommendation & get an estimate on paper....
Then go to the next shop & do the same, ask lots of questions to inform yourself & try to make sense of who the hacks are vs a quality installer.
Frustration though, you may get 5 different shops & they may recommend 5 different system components,
You will never get 2 guys recommending the same stuff majority of the time...
That being said, I did have multiple shops recommend complete alpine R system, component speakers, the sub, that amp I listed above, etc...

Complication on my part that steered me to the 12", few systems I heard with a 10" jl stealth box for the previous gens, had the boomy sound but felt there wasn't enough punch for my liking.
Better to have more & tune it down, than to not have it at all.
So that required larger amps to optimize my subs potential...

I wanted a fully active dsp sound quality build, sound stage effect, depth, time delays, etc...
making it possible to achieve high-fidelity sound reproduction even in challenging acoustic environments.


Way overkill, like I said, you can get a kick-ass system for less than $3k
You can also just get a real amp to run the entire system & amplify the JBL stock speakers & watch it come alive vs spending $350 on the beat sonic.
I determined early-on beat sonic was about the same price of a real full-size amp & a waste of money.


Shops recommended alpine amps, various JL audio amps, etc...
Few runner-up shops wanted to install Mosconi & Helix, Hertz...

The shop I settled on are installing:
Arc Audio Blackbird dsp amp 8ch w/ 12 dsp outputs, 125w per ch at 2ohms...
&
Arc Audio Nighthawk amp 800w to the sub...

"Arc Audio is a premier brand right now. They just don't have the advertising and dealer network to back it up.

They are one of the only Brands that really still supports the show scene.
Also their main competitor is Brian Mitchell who is basically the king of car audio competition.
When it comes to DSPs right now, there are two players that are always the most represented, that's Helix and that's Arc.
Everyone else is a runner up at best.

I have a Blackbird and I love that amp/dsp.
Where you are not tuning it, this won't matter to you but the interface is the best I have seen. Helix just does too much weird $hit where you enter in new values for something or go to make an adjustment and it just doesn't work, but it won't tell you why. Arcs just works and does exactly what you tell it."

 

@slater thanks for all of that. I think you talked me into diving in. I could do about $5K and not feel too guilty. Problem around these parts is finding a good installer as I cannot. I might have found someone that is an audiophile and car installer but happens to work at a shop that does other mods like lifts etc but they are one of my customers so over the years talking to him I think he would be the best around and capable.

One more question. Is the shop doing any sound deadening?

 

I did the sound deadener myself, motivated by Bobswold & fotofisher.
Super easy,
I just did 1 door at a time, panel off, sound deaden, panel on, next....
This is what fotofisher & I used, good stuff!!!
& cheap. Get the bigger sheet option, size of a piece of paper & comes with $34 pieces.
I had alt left over for the installer to use where he felt was necessary.
I did all 4 door & back cab wall.
Back seat stays in if your not looking to do the floor, rear cab panels come-off in like 30 seconds...

$45 Amazon Basics Car Sound Deadening Mat, 9.8″ x 15.7″, 34-Piece

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Sound-Deadener-15-7″-34-Piece/dp/B07XJ5MVQ8?th=1

Where are you located? Is yelp a thing in your area?
That's what I source now that "yellow pages" is a thing of the past...

 

I bought this set off eBay, new for $5 with free shipping but my source is out of stock...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/156528860116?_skw=Car+Audio+Sound+Deadener+Install+Application+Roller+Rolling+Deadening+Mat+Too&itmmeta=01JFD45CE66XJP7DN7KNECVG0B&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAABMHoV3kP08IDx+KZ9MfhVJKmQLVY3xqa+2fKvIdUUsVXWV8BVUVhz6kfKFszN5%2F08Iwk11M1jgTEtg%2FMoHn1FNQRacdODzS9krokybpkhw25W0%2FYL2pgcE6o9mtyQIJy25iBekA2b0cdpgqUcMVBOkirfMTDr%2FbcLYaP4y%2FDGfk9gg1uUU9jAOnwZAtbhQHe2xnkqNNLgSV53ng8ewz7K%2FSQxyJX1hkU0vQiHsa6nGrPXLze9WR4j9M07HQU564%2FMuEr8yL3LJmfpYargaeBDhUvVI29rcvE0d63c3JASroejmtNP5RTyToPq1iyvo5cZCBX+Tg2+95%2FJfgSFUO5Fpo+BzEJ5Kz1MXDXBbVKg1JMKtx%2F7XdwkRClnxxwVi5p4NxYQXiM4lVcNfn5HrsunlJE%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR57HlaT7ZA


https://soundsgoodstereo.com/

 

We do have yelp. I will check it out. I just get that not a huge demand for high end stereo systems in KY.

I have done sound deadening before. Already have the roller. I can tackle that myself as well before taking it in.

 

Look through the pics, looks legit!!! First one I clicked on...
https://www.yelp.com/biz_photos/sounds-good-stereo-mount-juliet-4?select=NIplvFlqWzjc7raRuxVFPw

Looks like there's lots of options, you just need to do your DD....
You may drive past a shop everyday but have no idea its there...

They're a Focal dealer & nothing wrong with Focal lower-end stuff, like the Flax...

 

When I changed out my whole system it cost me roughly 3100 to do the swap. I could have spent way way more but my buddy that installed the amp and dsp said that the sound quality would be so much better that I would be happy… he was right love the sound

 

If all goes well, get her back today, per last nights conversation....

 

People will be wondering why your smiling so much…

 

I would love to do this sound deadening but have no idea how. Is there a video that you recommend to show how to do it. It sound like it is on the inside of the outer shell? If correct how do you access that?

 

inside of the outer shell & also the metal shell that the door panel mounts to, also can get some on the inside of the door panel also....
there's plenty of YouTube videos, its easy...
slap it on & use the roller so it adheres well.
Look at bobs pics, he has an extensive portfolio link imbedded in that thread...
Just got my truck back from the stereo shop, zero rattles, except for plastics around rear view mirror...
Need to tear that down, & sound deaden....

 

I must have missed the link. I will go back to see where he put it. I looked and saw a couple of photos for the doors but he is also doing the floors. I don't know if that's all necessary and how hard it is. I was hoping for something in greater deatail.

 

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1...?key=WTRMNE1jRjhHNVRsekNqQTVPM2QtRXBtTlhiWGl3

 

I just googled 2024 tacoma sound deadening and this company sells a kit for $329.

https://soundskinsglobal.com/produc...igC8u96OOOClNKbFhIap6Jd_xa9eVmExoCm3MQAvD_BwE

 

good stuff but that's just for the inner shell that the door panel mounts to, not inner & outer...
from my reading.
Also that closed "hybrid" cell foam is mostly suited for in-between the door skin & the panel, not best choice for outer skin.
Its great to prevent rattles from plastic door panel to the metal skin of the door..

I used Amazon basics from Fotofishers recc & some of my own research. Due to cost & thickness is was a no-brainer.
Bob used killmatt.
AMZ basic $65 gets you 34 pieces, the size of a sheet of paper, will do the entire truck...

$45 Amazon Basics Car Sound Deadening Mat, 9.8″ x 15.7″, 34-Piece

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Car-Sound-Deadener-9-Piece/dp/B07XJ5MVQ8?crid=26FBUMK7OZFB3&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.4stCs_SM1NtpagOuE6vxmFY8eEzrjcPleqAaUk5549Iqol6ELSm-6zOHQBQBacpDMZ7T58IfgGDSNM8ao-HMGPyaOk2pwU-EVHnXfSwEtmoxmeiQUNSzAj2Fs8q5x2UkiWs0G1dgLNU4qV1bYshrtSsOWR4lHuYQo6cyu_363ZXKrJYFs13ArSgQ0m8NWI7AkkDtoXQ59iPSEqlAMYYpHkHYo6Sr9ZUdWeYqtV-Dv9g.b00f0ISjcDnakZBxsAeeu9v348F72m4wW2-R5lkL3tE&dib_tag=se&keywords=amazon+basics+sound+deadening&qid=1734732571&sprefix=amazon+basics+soun%2Caps%2C163&sr=8-3&th=1

 

Doing my part keeping the OG's thread alive, little bump...
Bobs started the sickness, I just elevated it a bit...
Didn't feel there was a reason to create another thread..

Here's what the installer ended up doing with the tweeters.
After me calling focal tech support numerous times over educating myself on what these tweeters really needed & wanted to sound their best in regards to positioning....
Some tweeters thrive off axis, others need to be on axis to sound their best.
If a tweeter is designed to sound best off axis & you installed it in an angled mount pointing at you, you didn't do yourself any favors..
vise versa...
expressing my concern to my installer about these needing to be on-axis to perform their best, blah, blah, blah....
Frak tweeters are substantially different than what was previously offered....
My installer had a discussion with Nick Wingate over the situation....
Nick Wingate actually personally called me....
Explained the a-pillar if installed / positioned correctly will be just as good as getting the pods, won't matter enough to go through the trouble with getting the pods.
Nick was very familar with the pods from Germany...
My installer wanted to keep the install clean as possible & thought he could aim those tweeter pretty much / close enough to on axis & still be in the stock a pillar mount...
So This is what they came-up with....
Sounds really good, wondering if I'll really hear any improvement after the break-in period. Or if it will get louder at all...
Can really hear the time delay, the "soundstage" sound jumping around throughout the various speakers, etc...
Unlike the other installers dsp system I demo'd, I didn't hear any of that in his build.
I feel it can be louder but it's plenty loud.
Think most installers also tune / adjust to keep things bullet proof....
He did say there was a bit more adjustment in the loudness dept but felt confident is his adjustments...
Overall happy with it, see what happens when I get some real time behind the wheel.
Amps dont fit under the seat so they went same locations as Bobs, where the jbl mini sub was....
This is a full active system, crossovers were not used inline with the speakers,
all dont within the dsp tune...
I can say, I have ZERO rattles even with the sub control knob cranked to the moon & this is with a 12" sub powered by 800 watts...
EXCEPT for the bezel around the rear view mirror, I will handle that tomorrow, will sound deaden it...
May also be a perfect candidate for some of that hybrid sound skin closed cell matting since the panel lays on the glass to a certain extent.
dont have a pic of the sub, tomorrow...

 

This is an awesome thread and gives me ideas for my base TRD off road. I just think it's funny on how when I was first driving my 2024 after coming from a 2015, I thought how much quieter the cab was, and some people here are saying how loud the 2024 is. Phone calls in 2nd gens sounded like you were in a convertible with the top town

 

What piece is this?

 

The jbl trucks have more plastics behind the seat than the non jbl trucks.
the non jbl trucks have more smaller trim pieces outlining lots of exposed felt from what I remember the 1 or 2 I peaked at.
the shop cover the entire back panel, think it was overkill, not required...
As stated, the $65 of Amazon basic will go really far.........

that's piece mounts upright covering all that white felt.
I took the white felt off & sound deadened that back cab wall.
Didn't go crazy covering every inch as there's lots of installation anchors, etc...
That wall would be very tedious to cover every inch.
Bob did though...

You also dont need to take the back seat out at all to do the back wall.

You can probably get 1 amp under the passenger side seat to run it all....
My installer mention there's some sort of cross bar or hump that made things tough...
Can't put amp under driver seat, all the jbl / amp stuff is there....