Long Travel BS Thread

We used the DMZ numbers exactly on my buddies truck a couple months ago and it was centered

 

there’s a joke about bung holes in this…

 

Any reason why I can't fully weld them in now?another issue I've found is just because the hangers are flush against the frame doesn't mean they are 0.0 level. One side I had to rock the front hanger a 1/16 of an inch to get it level.

What's the acceptable tolerance in straightness?

Other than excess bushing wear is it the end of the world if the hangers aren't 100% plumb and square? I'm trying my best to make that happen but I can't control every detail

 

Get it as close as you can. But nothing is perfect on the trucks from stock either. I've done a few leaf hanger Frenching jobs just do your best to get close. But really being off by distances side to side would make the biggest difference because it would stand the truck up more or less and it would give you a thrust angle problem. But just being a little off of height side to side would hardly be noticeable.

 

3 of my hangers are .5° from level and one of the front ones is 1.0°. Thoughts?

 

Dude, I love it. I love seeing the guys doing the one off DIY stuff. That’s a true enthusiast.

One and only thing I will say, if possible. I would consider a frame notch to move that shock in some. Tire to bypass tube contact is very real with a 2.5”. I really don’t get how some are doing it with a 3” and no frame notch.

But seriously. Nice work!

 

What are we measuring relative to? And have you checked that item relative to something else? I wouldn't sweat one degree though either way.

 

I would not fully weld until you cycle it. Make sure the rear shackles move cleanly from droop to stuff

 

Thanks, just an hour a night after working on cars for 9 hours all day.

 

Measuring off the frame directly in front of hanger as my zero, which I know could not be accurate....guess that's my question, what should I be using as my reference?

 

There's a couple of ways you could do it. Either find a beam spanning the rails and zero your angle finder off of the center of that. Or measure the bottom of the rail on both sides and average them. I typically go the averaging route because I don't trust how straight the beams are welded. Then check your mount against that. Even though you're only working off of one frame rail at a time these things all add up to the entire system so chances are you're off by even less right now if you're within a degree of a single rail

 

16"?

 

oh i just went with a 5" wider axle....lmao

 

Time to stack wheel spacers

 

Yesh

 

Your floor seems fairly flat/level. If you get the frame rails even to it, then you can just use a level for anything else or do some Pythagorean theorem (a squared, b squared, c squared)(6' 8' 10') (60" 80" 100") to check your square with the floor as reference. Or the same thing with an angle gauge zeroed off the floor. Hell you could even use the ceiling or perpendicular to a wall. As long as some part of your truck is even with your reference - preferably the frame to the ground since it sits that way in use - then you can check the squareness of anything with enough right triangles.

Either way a degree or two is okay. The deformation of the bushings and leaf flex can soak that up. You just don't want it so bad that those parts are basically pre-tensioned or experiencing excess friction

Looks like you're doing well so far!

 

Anyone know how thick the bed is off hand? I need to make spacers for bedcage and my bed is wrapped up tight with a tarp to keep it out of the elements. I hate asking stuff like this but it's late in the day

 

Eh I want to say like inch..
I can go try to measure for ya

edit:
1.9”

 

Came in clutch bro, I owe you one

 

What should I look for with "clean travel" droop to bump?