Let's see your FJ case swap

I have a shifter from the fj that I'd be willing to part with if you're interested. I might even have the input shaft you need as well. I'll have to take a look. Pm if you're interested.

 

OK - made some final decisions this morning, here is my planned hardware setup:

- 2011 FJ VF4B & front propshaft (car-part.com)
- Rear driveshaft from 2014 ACLB Auto (eBay)
- LX470 lower shift boot (eBay); going to keep the stock 6MT lower boot in tact and just poke the FJ shifter through the stock boot for now; probably going for the same TRD knob and boot setup as BassAckwards once it's sorted
- Leaving front ADD in place; will just engage and disconnect for "shakedown" and may eventually run standalone harness if I feel like I can't live without 2WD; or take it apart and mechanically jam it up in the unlikely event that it somehow wants to disengage

Now, just waiting on parts and time to start hand wringing over the wiring side of things..

 

This is the same as DCSB so it should expand your search radius. Check fb marketplace and Craigslist too

what are you planning for the rear locker?

 

Yep, just happened to find a clean driveshaft from an ACLB - that was what it came from, not specifically what I was searching for.

Rear locker - I ordered up the parts from Digikey for the 'anytime' mod to have on deck in case that doesn't work itself out, but that's a bridge I will cross when I get there. The way I use the truck, it's really not something I need much, if at all; but would kill me to have it inoperable.

 

Greetings all. First time posting. I have a transfer case from a wrecked 2008 FJC with auto transmission. The case is pulled and on my work bench ready to be installed in my 2013 Tacoma with 4 cylinder and 5 speed manual.

Upon moving the shifter, it is not engaging 4wd in the transfer case; the front output shaft will not engage. The shift fork is smooth operating. It engages Low but again, no 4wd.

I have removed the top housing with the shift lever to see if I could see anything. I can manually shift the shift rails with a screw driver and still not engaging the front output.

When I rotate the front output, I can hear things moving around and I don't hear any grinding, banging, or clunking.

Any thoughts or ideas before I tear into it? Anyone experience this before?

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

Case, driveshaft and what's left of the boots landed today. Rear shaft and GX boot over the last few days as well.

Case seems to shift nicely; what's curious is that in neutral, it seems that the front/rear outputs are linked together like the center diff is locked. Is this normal? EDIT: Yes, it's normal

Also: lost a stud on one of the output flanges and another is kind of mangled, but I can't seem to find a part number for the studs (just a whole flange). Are these available separately? EDIT: Nope..

Pallet said 250#; no wonder fright was so friggin' high. My wife and I weigh not much more than that combined so we were preparing to break our backs getting it out of the back of my Forester but even she was like, "should we just carry it in to the garage instead of messing with the dolly?" Hah..what are these things actually tipping in at, 80-90#? Ugh. A few more days at this point and I could have had one for almost half the price..I hope this is the last ride I'm being taken on for this year!

 

I lost a few studs on mine, but took them out from my stock case. Remember not to just smack with a hammer. Use a punch to try to save the threads

 

Happy New Year's everyone!

My New Year's resolution is to get into mechanic shape by doing some burpees, benchpressing the 4Runner TC and deadlifting the A750F.

After years of lurking the various FJ case swap/4x4 conversion threads and taking notes, I'm finally ready to pull the trigger and start accumulating parts.

Here is what I got so far:

The 4x4 hubs are on order with 05Taco4x4. $345

2004 4runner V8 front diff $155 with 1yr warranty $172 on order.

Somehow, I stumbled across a salvage yard parts store in Phoenix last week and I ordered the parts below. So, my son and I did an Impromptu trip this morning and picked up the following today:
2018 4Runner OR TC mileage 41k $330 plus 1yr warranty = $371.

2011 4Runner V6 Auto A750F mileage 146k $590 plus 1yr warranty = $705.

I'm going to have to regear the front to 4.11 to match the rear or would 4.10 be ok? I still need to check local shops in the Bay Area or I might go with ECGS. The front torsen lsd from Nitro Gear sounds intriguing.

I would like to go with twin sticks, but I'm still undecided.

I plan on purchasing the HF Titanium 125 flux welder. Anyone have any experience with this welder? I'm also planning on purchasing the HF 500lb hydraulic table lift. I'm so stoked for this project.

Time to drive back to SoCal to spend New Years with the family before driving back to the Bay Area. Cheers everyone!

 

Yeah the deeper I look, the more it's not looking good for sourcing the studs separately. It would bug me to rob them (because I am like that), but it's either that or just pop them all and run conventional bolts; I intended to replace all the hardware and got 16 bolts/washers/nuts before I realized they were studded on the TC side, so I do already have a full set to do so. I'm wondering though if that's for manufacturing assembly convenience more than any engineering reasoning; the yokes have a snug fitting register and I can't imagine why they'd be OK on one end and not the other. The bores aren't very oversize either, maybe not any more loose than the axle flanges, at least not by feel. I'll take a closer look tomorrow.

Other updates: fair amount of oil on the bottom of the case, I'm unsure if it's the TC input leaking, or if it was from the transmission side. I intended to get everything mated up this evening but I got called in to work to fix some things that couldn't wait, which threw my plans off..but now that I'm seeing that, I may investigate further. Doesn't appear they touched the drain plug so I may get to see the condition of the gear oil..though I am not sure I want to, LOL!

 

Still happy with your FJ boot setup? I scaled up your image above to mock up my stock boot with the GX470, and they clash juuuuust enough to make me reconsider; probably a better choice for the automatic guys. Too bad the boot I got is thrashed and they didn't include the steel frame, not seeing any on eBay either..

 

I used this on both of my levers. Just cured the bottom rib and sealed from bottom and top.

$19 Manual Automatic Shifter Cover, Rubber Shifter Boot Gear Panel Dust Cover 5 5/8in x 6 3/4in Manual Automatic 350

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089GM34JF

 

LX470 boot?

I couldn't get it to work with the space I had. Im auto though. I used this one:

$16 GSKMOTOR Shifter Boot Small Round Black Rubber 5.250" Round Plate

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B2DGW7CR

 

I am happy with the FJ boot setup. I used it in both of my trucks with the AWD case and it turned out pretty clean. I would try ordering a new one from a dealer. It will be expensive but the steel frame is how i marked the holes and it makes it look factory. I lined the front one up with the stock holes and then marked the remaining ones off of the FJ boot. It does take a little work to get it to fit. There are some uneven areas on the trans tunnel.

 

Yeah..ok, thanks. It looks like I can get one for about $100 with some sniffing around. I can use the rough one for a set-up piece I guess, although it crossed my mind to try and make my own frame; but I'm already behind schedule as it is and that's more of a problem than being over budget at this point.

Man, used market is rough...I may also wind up with a Redline leather boot as that's cheaper than a used FJ boot, which I'd prefer for the OE look, but those may be as close to disintegrating as my original..

 

Hell yeah dude! Let me know if you have any questions.

 

Im still looking in the used market for boot covers. Came across a GX470 that has an extreme angle. 2H is fine, but 4Lo goes way forward. No generic boot on Amazon does it for me yet. Maybe an ebrake lever boot, but then no ring. At the same time, i don't have factory knobs

 

EcoCrawler boot it’s from and FJ cruiser(used to be my j pattern’s) and my current J patter is a Bride generic boot. My truck is quiet and sealed. I’m a happy dude.

This is how it used to look

 

And here’s my cosmetic I pattern boot.

https://a.co/d/dyqZHKP

 

I had that one, but it was catching on the threads that i used for the J shifter. I used a U bolt. I guess i could smooth them over more

 

Current:
Its like a black suede with blue stitching