Long Travel BS Thread

I had to use resistors with my BD tail light bar. Guessing all 2nd gens would need them.

 

Are your headlights on?

With my rear bar, the blinkers work all the time, but the brake light only works when the running lights or head lights are on.


Edit: not DRLs. I mean headlights and the “one click before headlights” or whatever.

 

I tried all settings of the headlights and neither work.

 

Projecting bumped and strapped to be 16". No frame notch.

This sound right?

 

So i got 14.5 inches of shock shaft showing (including black bumper) at full droop, and left an inch at full bump. Is this a good scenario?

Got 7.5 inches of shaft at ride height, which puts it right in the middle

 

Correct me if im wrong, but I stopped by a race prep shop and they told me they like to set it where both the bump stop, and the shock bottoms out at the same time to spread out the stress of impact. Just relaying the message

 

I get that, but with my motion ratio I'm at now the spring hangers mechanically are maxed out/or axles touching frame before the shock is in danger either way

 

Bypass piston fully past the last tube on compression ?
Having an inch at bump isn’t bad, as that leaves room for the bump pad to wear and frame flex or even if the pad sheared off.

 

Yes....but the perches I have currently are from JDfab and they are a bit taller than the ones DMZ use. So the axle sits a bit higher than a standard DMZ setup. Think its about 1/2 ich diff

 

Yeah piston is in the bump zone full compression and past rebound tube full droop

 

No set it at your new ride height but it's just good to have a point of reference for where your perches land in case they move when you're adjusting the pinion angle, you now have a point to double check. That point of reference can be anywhere from any point but it's best if it's somewhere in your droop travel range so you can get the axle back to that point even with the leaves fully assembled. The ten inches was just a measurement that would generally work for any sua setup. Sorry if i'm making shit confusing.

For the pinion angle you measure the front section of your driveshaft or transmission output at your new ride height and set the pinion at the same angle. A lot of people like to set offroad stuff a couple degrees downward to account for some axle wrap from the soft leaf springs

 

No i get what your saying, my biggest confusion was how to set shock tabs with the single leaf and hoping pinion angle remains the same with full leaf pack. Shit that probably just comes with experience

 

I concur. This thread was really dead around the time i did mine and i pieced together a stock length sua setup. Learned lotsa shit on the second or third time going through it all haha

 

So here’s where I’m at with my install.

Using a 3.0x14” with the under the bed shock towers. I’m showing 13” of shock travel from full bump to droop. The shock currently bottoms out before the bumps but there’s a little wiggle room with the towers. Not a lot though.

The shackles are beyond 90° at full droop, but not sure if this is a concern being the kit moves away from inverted shackles.

 

You have more total shock shaft showing than my setup, that will be addressed after when the front gets dialed.. The shackle angle is pretty much identical to mine. Watch the Drive Shaft Slip Yoke plunge length, it decrease as it droops. I have my Limit Straps set just for that.

Edit: you have the Hanger in the Middle Position whereas mine is all the way forward.

 

That is correct. Is there a specific reason you went with the forward most position?

 

Mostly for the "Softer" Spring Rate Ratio and some for the ride height.

Sidenote: My Ride Height is setup for when I have all of my crap loaded up for a trip because I carry a lot of it. There's a few adjustments with the design of the JD SUA that can be made to accommodate Leaf Spring Rate and Ride Height. That was one of the leading reasons why I chose the JD Kit.



Theres two 5 Gallon Fuel Cans and a 6 Gallon Water Jug all the forward in the bed plus everything else. Not too tall or too low which keeps the Shafts in the right zones

 

Is there slack in the brake lines? They look really tight in the pic

 

there is but not a lot.