Long Travel BS Thread

Makes sense. I went with the H70s, not the HDs so I was going to start in the middle and go from there.

 

Playing with this myself. The 3.0 is going to make things tight!

I started cycling over the weekend but don’t have wheels spacers yet. Planning on picking those up tomorrow.

I rotated the shock body inward (Fox have a rotating body cap) and found the rebound tube would hit the bed when the axle swings rearward while bumped. Easy fix to rotated the body outwards but then I’m pushing the comp tubes towards the tire.

I’ll probably end up notching the bed more to allow clearance for the tube while keeping the shock body as close to the bed as possible.

 

I don't have the option of rotating the Bypass Body with the fixed Resi Mount, but my Tube orientation is pretty much Spot On. Only issue was the bottom of the Shock Tower had to be clearanced for the Top of the Rebound Adjuster.

 

As of right now frame to shock distance is plenty. Could see a tire/bypass tube relationship in the slow stuff at this point

 

1/2-3/4” should be more than enough shock to frame clearance. You need to cycle this stuff though. Don’t ever take “this is my ride height” or “this is how close my shock is” as gospel.

Cycle cycle cycle.

 

I am def doing that but is there a way to determine ride height without putting entire leaf pack back together?

 

Nope. It’s a pain in the ass. It takes time. You also need to realize these packs will settle out some too. But realistically your pinion angle should stay good with a well designed kit.

 

OK that's what I was wondering. My back can't take no more right now

 

Any issues with this amount of shock shaft at full bump? I have a 3/4 spacer between ubolt and frame to space it. At full droop i have 15.5 inches of shock shaft showing, and that's with shackle maxed out. Piston is in the bump zone, but not very much tbh.

@906taco I articulated it with a tire and I will definitely have some rubbing near max uptravel but without a frame notch the shocks will hit frame if moved inboard any more.

 

Your just not going to get the full benefit of the bump zone on the bypass. Not the end of the world being you're running hydro bumps but that's one of the primary benefits of a bypass shock.

 

imo it's too much shaft showing.

 

I have the ability to rotate the lower shock mounts to put it in the zone better, without sacrificing down travel

 

Personally, I would do that. It's unfortunate you're not able to use the full stroke of the shock but I personally would prefer to use more of the bump zone than the droop. You're going to loose out one way or another.

For reference, the bump zone is probably 20% of travel while the catch is closer to 10-15%.

Would a longer eyelet help the situation? Would give you a longer ext/comp length overall but wouldn't give you more shock stroke.

 

I will take your advice

 

FWIW, I hate my bump zone with hydro’s. Valving that feels really good in the bypass zone is too stout for the bump zone. Which is why I’m planning to add trim tubes to my bump zone. But everyone has their own preference.

 

Haven't you previously stated that you like a lot of bleed in your bypass check valves?

Wouldn’t it make sense to reduce the amount of free bleed you have in the check valve and reduce the main piston valving so you’re not hitting a wall when in the bump zone?

 

You should be able to squeeze 16.5” out of that kit without a frame notch. Get that axle up as high as it can go and play around with your shock mounts some. 1” of travel isn’t much to worry about but getting as much up travel as you can is important.

 

Too bad you're not local to me, I'd really like to offer to swap rear shocks for a day.

 

I'm at 16 flat now with a 3/4 gap between ubolt and frame.

 

I rotated the shock tabs on axle and got it down to an inch of shaft showing.