Looking for help about lower control arms

Hi I’m looking for some help on what lower control arms to get and where . I only know some suspension stuff I jus replaced my tie rod ends and had to replace a knuckle on passenger side I need some sturdy lower control arms I do weld a little but def not a pro only what I’ve taught myself trial and error really

 

Why do you need lower control arms?

 

OEM are the best, aftermarket ones seem to be hit or miss.

 

Solo, BTF, or Total Chaos lowers ^^^

 

Uhhh, what makes you write you need to replace your lower control arms? If you think the bushings are worn out, what led you to that conclusion?

If you have a valid reason, you could remove them and replace the bushings yourself. That would be time-consuming but would not be very expensive, and there is plenty of info on this forum showing you how to do it and the problems that you may have.

But if you're stressed for time, or if you don't really know what you're doing, or you just don't want to go through the trouble of removing the old bushings, you could buy them with new bushings already installed and save yourself a lotta grief.

Or if you're filthy rich, you could just drive your truck in and tell some mechanic to replace them (and then wonder and fret about the bushings that were replaced ).

And don't forget to think about replacing the LBJs while you're at it.

 

Not trying to be an a$$ since clearly this site isn’t in need of any MORE , BUT My valid reason is that I was hit on the passenger side twisted my whole control arm around bent my tie rod into a u shape completely … I’ve replaced the knee assembly and tie rod ends inner and outer replacing sway bar end links upper ball joint etc by myself and I know that u should always do both sides and the only knee assembly I could afford was from a junk yard so not filthy rich but your tone in your text is as bad as the dudes I deal with at auto shops here . If I wanted smart ass wasted time answers I can get those a dime a dozen . So how about surprise me with something I ain’t seen or heard before Mr. Know it all.like useful sh*t minus the peanut gallery judgements and assumptions before informing yourself of the actual scenario…. I thought this was a forum for discussions and help not rhetorical nothing better to do today except waste my life n yours comments…. Just saying . Please don’t treat me like I do not know anything . I will graciously admit if I do not know something . But I do know my truck . Thank you .

 

Have a nice day!!!

 

use oem ….

 

Lol...
You're a brand new forum member who provided no details on the problem, otherwise asking what a quick Google search would answer. What did you expect? Dude above speculated in the meantime since LCAs rarely need replacement on these trucks. Otherwise, you got real answers.

 

Just use the ignore feature to filter out the know it alls.

 

I replaced mine with full LCA's so I wouldn't have to deal with pressing bushings in and out. I was gunshy about using aftermarket CA's as a slight change in geometry might change how it drives. OEM from Ourisman Toyota (formerly McGeorge) was the best price I found.

 

In the interest of being helpful. We don't know your truck. Providing a little additional information in your original post would have gone a long way. "I need a lower control arm" is a lot different than "My lower control arm was damaged in a collision, what are my options".

Ultimately- many people run whatever aftermarket control arms are out there- they are probably all "fine". The bushings will wear out faster than OEM. Lower ball joints are the larger concern- those should always be OEM.

 

Yes I understand in that aspect however I thought just stating the need for the lower control arms than explaining why was sufficient as I’d already ruled that part out myself . I had been googling for weeks and thought I’d ask for suggestions from those who had more experience than I have with using different ones or options I may not necessarily know about . Next time I will be much more efficient with my wording and from what I can see much more detailed and specific about any questions I have or items I’m inquiring about. I can see both sides to this and am willing to put forth the effort on my part.
That being said, feel free to at least laugh and congratulate me on my well versed comeback nonetheless, because overall, it was witty to say the least. LOL

 

TacoLocker

I am in the middle of a complete rebuild of my front suspension. I am replacing my UCAs, LCAs, bearings(seals, tone rings and spacers), upper and lower ball joints and knuckles. All OEM!!

I will have the UCAs and LCAs available if you are interested. You will need to replace the bushings.
I won't be finished with this work for awhile if you aren't in a hurry.

 

I am new to forum as well. I bought my Tacoma Prerunner new in 1998 and do all the maintenance myself after being burned by a local dealership here in Tempe, AZ. My truck has 349.8 k on original engine; I just changed timing belt 3rd time over the blazing summer. I run Michelin’s since wearing out the first set of Goodrich’s. About 150k ago I took truck to a local off road suspension shop to change LCAs. They installed after-market moog LCAs because inside of tires were wearing faster (I kept the used/original OEM LCA in my garage). I also changed the struts at that time too. Another couple sets of tires and bam…both tires wearing on inside again. Thus because of the high mileage and not wanting to repeat the same advice taken before, I too am doing a full suspension front end rebuild: RnR UCAs, the Original LCAs with new bushings, UBJs, LBJs, struts, front wheel bearings, steering tie-rods, stabilizer bar grommets/rubber. Ive purchased OEM parts on every thing and was able to buy all parts at the “on-line” price which is 25% less the walk-in price at my favorite dealer in Mesa Az. I have already pressed the new OEM LCA bushings on my original LCAs. I used a fine-thread 3/4” hardened all-thread; a receiving cup my brother designed and machined on his lathe, another cup with OD cut-outs for relief for the bushing nubs on the other side also designed and built by my brother, 3/4” washers and nuts). The OEM bushings have two nubs that are in alignment with the two welded half’s of the LCA and the other bushing has one nub that is in 90 degrees out). I don’t know why they were installed like this…just something to keep in mind when you press yours in (take plenty of pics). I’ve tried to attached pics but app doesn’t allow…perhaps after I post I can do.

Anyway I’m currently trying to remove my front wheel bearings. Ordered a tool on Amazon that I was able to get from reading a thread on this forum. I plan to use an air chisel with my buddy Willian to remove the old front axle locking nut then use the new tool to torque to 203ft-lbs on a new axle locking nut (after pressing in the new bearing). Does anyone else have a better method for removing the Toyota Tacoma v6 Prerunner front axle locking nut?

 

@Lilwhtmule
Here is what I used, a punch and a ball peen hammer. I had to smack em pretty hard but they loosened up and spun right out. Not saying this would work for you but it did for me. I didn't wanna wait for the tool. Proper tools are always a good thing.


I did have the knuckle out of the truck and I used some clamps to hold it to the work bench. I did use new nuts, cause they are stake nuts. I could have reused the old ones if I wanted to.

 

Bolt the knuckle to a wheel and have someone hold it while using a breaker bar on the nut - that’s what they did on here around 8 min.

https://youtu.be/TZ2sOfVrnhU?si=T4SfqTd8DH1v9nYh

 

Just trying to put this in perspective.

These types of conversations in a written forum don’t always come across the same as they would be in person. Because of this, you really do have to spell it all out. It’s similar to when you call tech support with an issue, they need to know everything that you’ve done before they can provide suggestions. On a forum, you’ll either receive a series of questions or suggestions based on a lot of assumptions, which may or may not be wrong. Providing all the steps that you’ve done to this point will allow everyone to skip the back and forth and get down to the real issue.

 

Thanks for all of the advice. Ended up using and a pneumatic impact chisel to remove axle locking nut, It took it off in less than 1 min…worked really well. For the new axle locking nut used the OEM tool where I used a 3 ft pipe (part of my clothes line…heee) as an extension to torque to 203 ft-lb mounting spindle on 2 x6 (imprinted patten into wood, then drilled bolt hole patten in the wood) used clamps to mount to bench which also worked well.