Motorcycles BS Thread 2.0

Again, diesel and gas turbos are not the same.

Not sure what the max tow is on the 2.7 or how it's suspension compares to the 3.5 or 5.0 and their max tows. May not be directly comparable due to different max weights. Also not sure if there were any major changes between 2017 and 2024 that would make comparisons less valid either.

As for Ford's rake, it is for the total payload. IDK what payload rating your truck has, but in mine it's 1824 lbs. minus the driver. If you put 1500 lbs. in the bed (room for driver and some kit in the truck), it's gonna squaaaaaat. If you level it and then do that it will be more nose high.

 

noooo you dont say... im legit just stating turbo vs no turbo... you are going to indepth with this... you are acting like i dont know this i grew up around them...


for the 2.7 i cant have the max tow package (the upgraded rear brake setup from ford unsure if either of you have that package) so im stuck at 8500 with a payload of 2200

but the new 2024 2.7 eco has less towing then mine oddly enough? at 7600 but im also seeing it shows more at 10k? as well the ole google be odd. but have a 2480 payload capacity so a tad more on payload

also are you sure you are right on payload? the 5.0 is stating about the same as the 3.5? the towing is less thou but payload is only different by like 100lbs it seems (this is just with the ole google search thou)

the rake for fords has always been stupid... even my 22 ranger had an awful rake to it that made the truck look rather dumb... ford just has an excessive rake...


i am getting these numbers from the ole google so no clue how accurate they truly are lol.

 

I said I don't like turbos on tiny engines in reference to gas, you said what about diesels? So it responded. How the heck am I supposed to know what you know about them? If you knew they are quite different why did you bring them up in the convo about small gassers with turbos? That's all I had to go on, so it made it sound like you might not have been aware. Don't take offense to it, I legit don't know your background.

Damn, you have 2200 payload with a 4x4 and extended cab?! What sorcery is this?

As for the online numbers, those are brochure numbers that never are right for payload.

My payload number is straight from the sticker in my door jamb at 1824. I do have the max tow so my tow rating is overkill for my use at 12,900 lbs.

Payload rating would be similar because the trucks are so close in tow rating, so the components underneath for braking and load carrying are going to be similar. The engine's primary impact on payload is going to be due to the weight of the engine itself more than the power it produces.

I like rake, but I do agree the Ranger and Colorado look really extreme. I don't feel the same on the current F150. I think the air dam/splitter in the front just makes the front look lower. Looking at the body it's got a nice bit of rake, but not too much.

 

I'm not offended I'm the one purposely messing with you lol

No clue lol I also haven't looked at the door jam sticker so it could be off haha.

I did look at one 3.5tt with the max towing and thought about it but it was a crew cab short bed... Short beds suuuck lol.

I could never stand rake tbh lol but I do think the 17s are a bit more aggressive vs the 24s the one we had as a rental even for a 2wd didn't seem to be that crazy high..

But here is a funny fact on at least my gen of f150s they have a block in the rear suspension to create the rake... So if you want it stock height and don't want to actually lift the front remove the block it causes no effect to the towing.

 

My 2015 f250 6.2 gasser 4x4 8' bed super cab. 3, 450 payload in bed. 12,500 tow rating.
Way more than I'll ever need but it sure is cool. And buying it used it was far cheaper than my taco would have been at the end of the lease. I liked my taco, but I like this f250 more, it's my third one and the best one I've owned. Solid front axle with massive disc brakes all the way around too. I'll be keeping this one for awhile.

 

Damn, I hit on a hot button topic. I've only put a 1/4 tank through the truck so far so I have plenty of time to debate the pros and cons of plenty of mods.

In an attempt to bring things back to bikes, now for an equally devisive subject, tires. I'm in need of some new rubber for the bike and might as well figure out how to swap them myself while it's on stands for the winter.

I'm thinking of going with the Dunlop Mutants but my real question is what tools do I absolutely need to get together to be able to it myself?

 

haha we are on a truck forum but talk about bikes at the end of the day we all like trucks and bikes lol

 

Man you have it bad! Shingles is absolutely miserable! I am only 38 so no vaccine for me but I had a small outbreak on my temple right next to my eye and luckily my wife talked me into going into urgent care and the doc knew exactly what it was and put me on the medicine right away. Hopefully you get over the worst of it soon!

 

Tube or tubeless wheels? Spoked or cast/forged?

Really just need tire spoons and some dawn soap/water or windex or armor all.

 

My thoughts:
- 3 spoons, not 2
- Bead buddy helps keep the opposite side down in the well of the tire and give you more wiggle room on the side you're working on
- lots of lube (I've used real lube and windex, real lube lasts longer but dries a little weird.. windex is my go to now, if you have a tube and cornstarch it it can make it weird, too, so YMMV)
- bead breaker of some kind makes your life easier, but can be expensive for a one-use tool, you can squash the bead in with your side stand if you're careful about it
- if you care about how your rims look, rim protectors are helpful until you get the hang of it

I got a baja no-pinch tool a while ago and it's basically a cheat code, really helps stretching the last few chunks of bead over. Someday when I win the lottery I'll buy a rabaconda street changer, that thing looks trick as hell.

That tire doesn't look awful, but I'd still get it as warm as I could, either by setting it in the sun (lol washington) or stick it under a blanket with a hair dryer poking in or whatever you gotta do.

 

me and a buddy tried the baja no pinch tool and man with a dirtbikes front tire it was a pain to use! we couldnt really figure it out tbh lol

 

Sounds like user error lmao I’ve only changed one tire with it so far, but once I got the play adjustment right on it it was smooth.

 

possible lol i found it more annoying to use on my drz wheel so we went back to using the spoon things lol. after that thou i just started taking stuff to shops i realllly hate messing with tires lol

 

Im back! Have some questions


1. considering a HP Corse High mount exhaust (slip on) for $700. But wait, am I just dumb? I have an exhaust, and can just try to not fall on it, and save $700 for a dumb slip on.
2. considering a new helmet. Thinking about the same one I have HJC DS-X1, or maybe an Scorpion EXO-AT960. Thoughts, experience?
3. Will be picking up a new jacket closer to the spring. MSR Xplorer
4. Will be getting a steering dampener this winter too

 

Not sure how stiff the sidewalls are on the Mutant but most Dunlops have really stiff sidewalls and can be a real bear. I have a Nomar tire changer and I've had a bitch of a time doing a Dunlop. Lots of lube and the hotter you can get the new tire the better. If I need to mount one in the winter I'll throw it in a black garbage bag and set it in the sun on my tonneau cover to get it as warm as I can. I've seen videos where guys have mounted tires using large zip ties but have never tried it myself.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lP8IAQniVL8

 

Eh save $700 but I know the mod bug all too well.

 

I tried the zip tie thing years ago on a tractionator gps, I think? Stupid stiff sidewall ADV tire. It didn’t work hardly at all. Couldn’t get enough squish out of the zip ties to get the opposite bead down into the valley and then when i did get it on they were a pain to remove. I don’t plan on trying it again. These were probably half in wide by 3 foot zip ties, too, big MF’ers.

 

I put some drop pegs on the razor last night. 3" lower. Lost some ground clearance but considering it doesn't climb over things well anyways I don't think I'll take it back through stuff like that.

But i can at least turn the handlebars all the way and not have to stick my knees way out to ride it.

 

3 spoons, 5 gallon bucket, lube and some vacuum tube cut in 3in sections split down the middle to go over rim lip if you want to reduce scratches. Is all you need for any tire

And some proper rubber lubricant. Ru-Glyde You can get a gallon of it from Napa for 20$ put it in a squirt bottle and it will last a LOOOOONG time. I apply LIBERALLY when pulling a tire off a rim.

Then when putting a tire on spray onto a folded paper towel to wipe on to the rim lips and tire bead to keep mess and moisture inside the tire to a minimum.

If I have a stubborn bead that needs to be broken I use a 2x4 as a lever with the tire propped flat on the ground on a few pieces of wood under the frame of my truck with something to push down on it.


Put tires out in the sun to heat up before mounting and take the bike for a short ride with low tire pressure to heat things up. Before pulling them.



The absofuckinlutly worst tires to do are tubeless tires on a Grom sized rim (12in)..... Everything else is a gdamn cakewalk.