Long Travel BS Thread

Thank you, I like the idea of an adjustable clevis over a fixed mount.

 

Who’s mounted the limit straps on the JD kit? I see where the lower mount is integrated into the spring perch but where does the upper mount?

Not seeing any mention of it in the instructions. Although the kit does offer a weld washer.

 

Here’s some pics of mine JD installed.

 

this is perfect, thank you

 

How many of you have welded on an axle full of fluid without issues?

 

multiple times. Never noticed any issues. Might not be “the right way” but I’ve done it.

I should add, depends on how much you’re welding. Shock tabs, a spring perch, etc you shouldn’t have any issues.

I would be more cautious if you were welding a lot, like a truss. I’d handle that differently.

 

I’d think that would be better as long as it’s able to vent.
Absorb the heat so less chance of warpage.
I’ve done axle tabs and not changed the fluid. So far nothing wrong but it may not be ‘correct’ either.

 

I haven’t had it happen but I’ve heard of the fluid combusting and blowing seals out. I typically just drain and leave the plugs out with tape over the fill and drain.

 

Ditto. Little stuff I wouldn’t worry about.

 

Heat kills things, like seals. If you’re welding close to where an axle seal is, wrap a cold wet rag around where the seal is to protect it. Also, the heat will cook the oil in that area. If you’re only welding a small area, that little bit of oil ain’t shit. But once done, I’d say do a drain n fill to get that cooked oil out.

 

I've had diff oil explode in my face when welding on the diff housing once, but it was a pretty extreme circumstance. On the axle tube, I'd never worry about it. On the actual pumpkin, I'd drain the oil.

 

Plenty of times

 

I could see this.

 

When I did all the tube trussing on my axle, I pulled the breather fitting, but left the fluid in. Figured the fluid would help pull heat from the housing and aid in keeping it straight. Didn't have any combustion issues. Planned out the weld intervals for warping as well. Of course replaced all the fluid afterwards. Put my TMR alignment arms on afterwards, and the hubs are square as can be. Maybe it was luck, maybe the planning helped. Hard to say on a one-off.

 

I did my truss with full fluid, but I TIGed it so have a bit more control on the heat. Obviously I put in fresh fluid afterwards.

 

Alright, who else saw the “filthy4r” dude and his LT kit where you chop your stock control arms in half and somehow pull 14”?

 

I was waiting for someone to bring that up haha

 

I can’t even…. People wreck stock arms with 35’s. Add 3.5” more leverage and hello broken shit and loss of control. I also highly doubt stock lower ball joints are capable of anything close to 14”

 

https://www.filthysuspensionconcepts.com/product-page/3-5-diy-budget-kit
I wonder if he'll actually sell a kit