Adding Inverter to SR5?

I have an 2022 (brand new-to-me) double cab SR5 without OEM 100W/400W inverter and like to add some capability for 120V in the bed or under the hood as a secondary location. I could make do if it were in the cab or one outlet in cab and one in bed? I don't have hard requirements for this, just preferences and weighing options.
I don't want to upgrade alternator at this time and like largest reasonable capacity which looks to be about 1200W or perhaps 800W is more realistic and safe for stock electrical system.
Hoping not to drill any holes but for the right solution it's an option. I can longer large gage cables made up. I have a 1600W pure sine but looks too big for alternator and not well weather sealed.
I am thinking right now (open to better ideas) of using the blank bed storage box panel to mount the receptacle(s) (duplex or single?).
I may use for some power tools or device charging beyond USB or maybe someday a small fridge/cooler on road trips.

Cheaper to get a small generator?

Love to hear some good discussion, lessons learned and recommendations and even that I am trying to do something stupid.

 

I'd get a small enough Honda generator and call it a day! But that's just me, I don't know your true needs.

 

You're right I didn't specify needs per se, I want to have as much on truck 120V power as is practical for yet unknown needs. Remote operation of a few power tools and SHTF bug out if needed is what's on my mind, nothing more specific. Hauling a genset is one option and maybe the best but another engine to maintain, lugging it up onto the truck are mild negatives to me and a place to put it when not using it is something to consider.
I have a very large portable generator (16kW inverter) that is far too heavy for even two men to get on a truck bed.

 

I would get a Jackery 1000 and call it a day. Plenty of AC power and portable. Charge it with the DC plug.

 

Either that, or you can run a fused heavy-gauge line from the battery, back to your bed, and choose to add a 12vDC accessory adapter back there, and plug in an inverter when you need it.... My TRD OR has the factory inverter in the bed, but I added the 12VDC line behind / inside one of the doggie doors so I can run an inverter or any other 12V thing I want in the bed. (Also added the LED bed lights under the rails, but those are on their own circuit...)

 

Thanks, an option I hadn't considered

 

So in your case if need to use the inverter it's in the cargo area of the bed and not concealed aside from a bed cover?
One wild idea I had was to remove the storage box in the bed and make a purpose built enclosure for an inverter. Not been under the truck beyond a quick peek so not sure where heavy gage wire would run yet. I think a wire loom would be needed exposed to the underside elements.

 

If you run cordless tools consider a 12v supplied charger. It’s probably more efficient for those than boosting up to 110 then back down to 18v or 12v. With your constraints you’ll probably need to refrain from running more than a few smaller tools or maybe a single 10A draw at a time.

 

The TRD Off-Road has a factory inverter in the truck bed, on the passenger side. It's got a weatherproof cover. It is only powered when the engine is running, and then only powered to 100w when driving, and 400w when parked / idling.

I added two fused 12V DC circuits for the bed. One for the bed lights I installed, the second for the Accessory adapter I added. (I have a BackFlip MX4 Toneau Cover for my bed). The accessory power adapter is hidden inside the small cargo door on the passenger side. I was debating running yet another circuit for the driver's side, but said to myself, "That's overkill." I simply grounded both circuits to the truck frame (via existing holes - no drilling).

As for running power from the battery, it's easy... Just use zip ties and follow existing wiring, which for the most part, is already mounted to the truck's frame. I get into the bed itself by either drilling holes through the bed-liner, or through the vent / drain holes behind the small cargo doors.

 

Absolutely only one tool at a time.

 

What amperage fusing did you employ for the inverter DC outlet? Wire gauge? wattage rating of your inverter?

 

12 AWG stranded.

The inverter is rated to 400W. It is "smart" and will shut down when voltage drops / battery is running low. I've never driven it that hard. I only used it in the past to power an old 19" Color CRT TV and a converter box when tailgating at a football game.

I want to say I installed a 20A fuse, since current is what drives the heat in the wire (12 AWG = 20A; 14AWG = 15A). I didn't have any 10 AWG, nor do I think the 12v power accessory outlet is rated much higher than 20... Maybe 25A? I can't recall the cigarette lighter fuse rating in my old rides ('78 Buick and '89 Oldsmobile...)

P=I*V (Power, in Watts, equals the product of Amperage (in amps) and Potential (in volts).

 

I love my Bluetti AC200Max. They are pretty reasonably priced nowadays. I use it to run my camper. Just over 2048wh of stored power, 2000 watt inverter with 4800 surge. They have a DC-DC charger, or if only using it intermittently it comes with a cigarette style 12v plug for charging at around 100 watts. Also has a 500w Power supply for charging at home. I have had zero issue running two 1000w appliances at a time in the camper. Like my griddle and air fryer for burger and fries Ran a big heat gun off it too, but only for short periods of time when adding wiring in the camper.

 

In stop and go traffic, with the 400w anytime mod done, I've had it reach the voltage drop. It shuts off and lights up your dash like a Christmas tree, losing ABS, TCS, everything. All you have to do is key-off/on and it's back to normal.

 

This. I have a 10awg wire that supplies constant 12v to my bed cubby it gets used 1000x more than the factory in bed 120v plug.

If i didnt have the factory inverter id run an 8 or 6 awg wire to the bed and use a nice 800w inverter if i needed ac power.

 

I am not talking about the factory inverter in the bed.... I am talking about my portable inverter (also rated to 400W), that you can attach to the battery clamps, or through a cigarette lighter adapter..

The factory inverter in the bed was able to power my laptop and three monitors when power went out while I was trying to work from home....

 

Ugh, thanks for that important info. Glad I asked and probably why Toyota reduces OEM inverter wattage to 100 while driving to avoid such problems

 

I bought some HD 4 g jumper cables and crimped on connectors to run from my battery to bed of truck. Was a lot cheaper than buying the cable any other way. Haven't used them since pulling my house batteries outta the bed, but worked great for charging 2x 27Fs in my bed via a Blue-Sea ML-ACR. Made for easy self jumping!!

 

I will add it works fine when cruising on the highway. Never had any issue before hitting a big jam up through Seattle/Everett.

 

There are also length considerations so a 10’ or more run might call for an increase in wire size. That part depends on where you put the inverter. I run #10 for 20-40A and #8 if over 40A or just under but over 10’. You can calculate the voltage drop per foot once you know the draw and decide whether the cost & weight are worth the benefit.