1st Gen Lunchtable Thread - General Discussion

Ha yeah he did

Absolutely, I hope you find it useful (especially that seal driver)

 

His 51st post was a bunch of new-in-box Coastal stuff in the B/S/T.

Too bad, seemed like an alright dude (the posts weren't total trash, even if he was obviously padding his stats). Said in the B/S/T thread his truck was totaled, so not much reason for him to be here other than to offload the parts he never installed.

Of course, everyone here knows you have to take stuff out of the box if you're going to sell it.

 

Even if they’ve had to learn it the hard way *cough @Kwikvette cough*

 

Best metalcore live mashup I've heard, borderline plagiarism but also not

https://youtu.be/AYcstGSS3mo?si=uJTVfrpPvqy_HF-q

 

Pretty decent deal really, this is easily fixable into a nice rig

 

@Ozark_RegCab Get it

 

Weeeeeeeeeeeeeee

 

Dumb question; when you’re bleeding brakes, so you pump the pedal a bit a build pressure, hold the pedal, crack the bleeder, and then close bleeder, release pedal. But during the cracked bleeder, the pedal drops to the floor. Are you supposed to let that happen or close the valve before the pedal drops all the way

 

Pedal goes to the floor cause you opened up the bleeder allowing fluid/air to escape.

Hold it down, place bleeder back on, then pump several times over and repeat.

 

You’re saying to pump it with the bleeder valve open?

 

You let that shit go all the way to the ground. Just like when picking a massage parlor you want the full stroke

 

Don't do that

 

No

You pump with bleeder closed or with the bolt threaded

After 5-10 pumps, you hold it down (pedal won't be fully depressed due to pressure build up)

Open bleeder, and whoever was pumping the brakes will feel the pedal go all the way down

Continue holding pedal while you thread the bleeder bolt back in

Repeat the process

What I was answering is that yes, it's normal for the pedal to go down when you open the bleeder because you've allowed that pressure to release thus allowing air/fluid to escape

 

You also don't have to bleed it much after you don't see any air bubbles.

You'll start with the passenger rear, then driver rear

When I replaced the brake line on the Tacoma and 4R, I never did bleed the LSPV but did on the Land Cruiser (since I replaced multiple lines)

Zane could chime in on this better since I never replaced my rear axle, only brake lines

 

Just make sure fluid is coming out everywhere first before you crack the bleeder at the LSPV or you'll make a nightmare scenario for yourself

 

We're making plans for snow rides on Friday. We got Tornadoes today.

 

I feel like tornado ride would be much more thrilling though

 

My daughter Anjelica is one of the best brake bleeding assistants around. She enjoys helping and has lots of patience. The boys are in too big of a hurry.

 

Just spare me the hailstones on cars. But I did get a new roof a few years back.