6MT throwout bearing and clutch system shenanigans

I think we’ve discussed this before, but the noise 99% of the time is the bearing face slipping on the pressure plate surface. The spring in the slave is what keeps that from happening, but the spring can go weak or the surfaces can start to slip for other reasons. Once the surfaces start to slip, it’s highly recommended to replace both the pressure plate and the TOB so you have two new surfaces, otherwise it’s likely to experience what you are…a solution for 10k miles that gives up again. Ideally rounding that out with a new slave cylinder spring would ensure you’re back to stock levels of preload and essentially set you back to a brand new setup.

Ny brand new OEM TOB had a film of oil on it. I got rid of that to help make the surface less slick. I’d recommend doing that on a new bearing.

I don’t think there is a better solution than new stock parts. And if you can live with the noise when it does start to happen, ignore fixing it at that point or try a heavier spring.

Clutches in pretty much all vehicles have been spinning the bearing full time since at least the early 90s, so I don’t think that itself is a problem, but for that to work well you need it held tight to the pressure plate so it can’t slip.

What I still don’t know is why the ones that start to chirp, ever began doing so. Did the spring go weak? Something on the surface caused the friction to give up? Nobody knows. But it’s almost never the bearing itself (which is why people can continue to drive on a chirping one for a long time, because the bearing itself is still fine).


Unfortunately I can not provide any input on aftermarket options, but I can say what I have seen hasn’t looked good.

 

Looking closer at your photos, did your fork fall apart? Looks like it left behind a bunch of crap on the fork support ball…if you didn’t replace the fork I would think that is at least contributing to the problem at this point.

 

Look at the vid. No slip either with or without the spring. I will mark the TOB and PP to verify with another vid.

The only part ever replaced was the TOBs. What you see on the pivot is remnants of high temp lube. Just in case, what you might see on the PP fingers is flung off moly assembly lube.

 

Yes the bearing sucks
I've replaced it
It started after 25k again I said fuck you
Sadness

 

Saw the vid, but I would think they’re both going to be moving fast enough that you’re not able to see any real differences in speed.

The pivot ball in your photos looks to have the bushing from the fork stuck on it. I don’t think it’s just grease. I just dug my old fork out of the trash for comparison and my bushing was crooked in my fork. I popped it out. If that was not noticed and the bushing out back into the fork properly, that is almost certainly causing things to be wonky this latest time. If that was caught and corrected when reinstalling the fork, then probably disregard.

 

So aggravating

Hell with it after 20 pages
Cod it is
Granada out

 

I'll do slow mo also.


I noticed the plastic piece both times. Both it and the fork were cleaned. I re-lubed the fork. I felt behind and re-seated that retainer. The only function of it as far as I can tell is to keep lube in the pivot.

As a matter of fact, prior to the first TOB failure. The fork would groan at times. Likely from wheeling through water crossings. Engine running or not. It never did after the first effort as I not only added grease at the pivots but also at the seats for the TOB retention clip.

Again, all three times, the TOB.made a noise consistent with engine speed that would change with clutch usage. First time, it could only be heard in my garage and went completely away with any clutch usage. The second time, it was audible at speed,.went away with clutch usage, but was impending failure from heat. Not sure if it was bearing heat or engine heat. This last time, it has not made noise at idle. Initially only at about 2,000rpm. Now, it makes noise at any rev but only during clutch usage. Sometimes at part travel, sometimes at full pedal travel.

 

Well here is the moment you may or may not have been waiting for, it's looking like the V6 Camaro slave is a high possibility to install into our trucks assuming you have the URD fix u bracket, the roller bearing is too small for the pressure plate so I have to call around tomorrow to try to locate one that is at least 66 mm wide the one that came with is is 61mm wide (I have an ACT clutch that is compatible with 3 gen, you guys running 2 gen pressure plate have to use one that's 71.8 mm) would anyone happen to know is the ribs I circled are critical/contain oil? I will have to shave the case to make room for the plastic hard like as it's about 3/8 an inch too short

 

Is this what you’re trying to accomplish?

 

Yes but it appears that slave is from the V8, would you happen to share where you found this? I wouldn't mind reading up on it

 

Going to change out the old squeek

So what's the verdict?
What am I not going to have to replace at 50k?
Just do a stock swap?

 

That’s the URD Fix-U hydro bearing kit. That picture is from when I had originally installed it on my truck.


The URD kit included a spacer ring adapter to close the ID of the pressure plate fingers. This allowed the smaller T56 bearing face to mate properly to the Tacoma pressure plate.

 

I still intend to get a vid of my situation.


Still, I am looking for clutch recommendations that are not OEM. No need for increased torque. Just better feel (similar to the 2nd Gens) and long life.

I was set on ClutchMasters until the stuff noted here about their TOB issues. Kinda makes it hard to dip into that well without something positive.


Thanks!

 

The idea struck me about installing a 2nd Gen clutch disk and PP on a 3rd Gen. Any thoughts?

 

Long time follower of this post as I had the quill on my FJ let go a couple years ago. Been limping it on the CM HRB for a while and decided it was time, after the transmission started acting up. Ordered a new transmission and all the parts! Just got my @Kasbien kit and started putting parts together. The adapter and the bearing fit nice and snug. The issue I’m currently having is that the adjuster sleeve I ordered (Tilton 61-628) showed up as a different part number (62-652) and from the pictures I’ve seen and the pictures from @Kasbien ’s guide, it should still work. Now recall that I ordered a brand new transmission and while doing some test fitting, I noticed that the sleeve won’t slide over the quill. Pulled out the caliper micrometer, and there is almost a quarter cm difference. Has anyone had to remove material from their quill to get it all to work? I’m sure most people are working with a well worn quill, but should it be a snug fit or how far should I take the quill down? Hopefully someone on here is still reading this thread!

 

I had some high spots on my quill that I had to sand down a smidge in order to get the sleeve to slide down it. Nothing serious, marked it up with a sharpie marker, slid the sleeve on to where it stopped so I would know where to sand, and did that process a dozen or so times.

 

This isn't just high spots, like it won't even slide on! Luckily it's aluminum (which if it weren't we wouldn't be having this conversation...). It feels wrong to have to shave the quill, knowing that it's the cause of all this!

 

Update: so my calibrated eyeball isn’t what it used to be, I replaced the batteries in the micrometer and they both mic’d at 1.375. In the slow process of taking down the quill with 2500 grit. I want it snug but still be able to turn the adjuster sleeve.