Ford F350 upgrade and maintenance log

I am also a 2005 Tacoma and a 2013 F-150 owner.

 

I own at 2024 4Runner and a 2016 Minnie Winnie built on a Ford E-350 chassis. (Had a 2006 Tacoma PreRunner Quad Cab for 17 years)
Still can't figure out how posting for F350 made it onto this site, but heck, what the hey!

 

It's in the Other Build Thread.

 

OK, that explains it fully!

 

Fresh red badges to replace the old pink ones. Eraser wheel and masking tape came in clutch for alignment.

 

Good as new!

 

Installed this phone holder as there isn't really a good place for storage while driving.

The ball for the socket was too large for the phone mount. Some light sanding got the desired clearance.

installed and works well enough. Nice and solid and can charge wirelessly.



Took advantage of the Black Friday deals and ordered a banks intercooler, fuel pressure gauge, and a tuner. Went with banks as it has the largest I.d. charge pipes and intercooler inlet and outlet at 3.5in while others are 3in. Tuner mostly for transmission tuning (sct and hptuners can only do that) they have some light tow tunes I could also try.

The tuning can also help at the pump. Had this towing some stuff for the property, around 13k this weekend. Every little bit helps.

 

Flashed the truck with a new tune. Didn't get anything crazy due to stock head bolts and transmission but should aid in responsiveness of the truck. Possible increase in fuel mileage too.

 

The banks intercooler came and I mostly got it installed. Ran out of daylight.

First air box needs to come out.


Air deflector is next to be removed.

So some people will leave a witness mark by scratching the paint to retain the orientation of the hood latch. I prefer the masking tape.

Hot side boost tube out.
battery removed.

This battery needs to be replaced so I'll get a new agm soon. In the meantime I cleaned up this one again.

This is a oil based anti-corrosive paste. We'll see how it holds up.

Finally I'm able to finish exchanging all the battery cables on the truck. This is the ground but you needed to remove the air box so what better time then now.

Driver side ground now upgraded.

Radiator support out. Needed quite the persuasion to lift out but it eventually lifted out.

Stock intercooler out.

At this point you're able to remove the stock rubber isolators to install on the banks intercooler.


Upon further examination the banks intercooler does not have a slot that the OEM intercooler has. This takes away a mount to where the coolant filter will sit but will see be held in place by the bolt. I might need to cut the bracket on the coolant filter or think of something else if a singular point of contact becomes an issue.

Banks intercooler mounted.

Very tight fit.

This is the little tang for the coolant filter mount. Might need to be trimmed in the future.


Everything in the front is buttoned up minus the air deflector.

So banks forgot to include the smaller clamps for the turbo outlet. My stash of clamps were too small or too large. So I cannibalized the old boost tube and used the OEM clamps. As shown they are stapled to the boot so I removed the staples and got them to work.

Hot side boost tube installed. Very tight fit but these are the largest tubes on the market at 3.5in diameter. As stated earlier I ran out of daylight. Not much is left but I'll need to hit of the store for some Dremel cutoff wheels to trim the fan shroud. Now time to relax and play some video games.

 

Please keep this thread going

 

sure thing mate

 

To finish the install I needed to remove the OEM intake elbow and install the banks one. The fan cover needs to be trimmed.

As shown the banks has a larger internal diameter. A plus it that it does not have the stud for the fan cover.

Mocked up.

So I have seen a lot of people snap the studs when tightening the nut. Two reason are they torque it down too much as they were using ratchets and the rubber seals get caught in the washer/nut. I just used a wrench and went with what I thought was tight enough.

Cold side boost tube installed. I do believe the clamps are too small for my application. The largest opening they can provide without undoing the clamp barely slides on the boot. Luckily I had some wd40 and muscle to make it work.

airbox is a tad more difficult to install as it's about 1/2 inch higher but again just gotta find the right angle and it fits fine.

all buttoned up. I did not reinstall the battery cover as I did not feel like messing with it. The OEM tie down secures it and with the new thicker battery cables it would just be a pain. Last to go on was the air deflector. Truck runs and drives nice. Didn't really get on it as I had the OEM intercooler and pipes in the bed but feels nice. I think it builds boost a tad bit quicker. Mostly though this mod was to keep the intake temps consistent when towing and it will not break like the plastic pieces would.
https://youtu.be/_s2fKTcUKB8?si=-SUJDy_NqmYvHFcE
Video explaining the need for the intercooler upgrade.

 

Got these riffraff high flow banjos bolts that are a nice upgrade from the stock ones. For some reason Ford installed one-way check Valve on the fuel banjo bolts on the 6.0psd. In some situations these have clogged and cause lack of power, mostly due to lack of maintenance. On the 6.4l psd the check valve is removed. To install this it would be best to remove the cooling system to access the driver side easily. Passenger side has no barriers. So at the moment I'm gathering parts.

In a quality of life improvement, I installed a backup camera.

Very luxurious and safe.

 

Oil change done at 98,254 before the cold came. Filter looked good.

Went shopping for a tool box I think this one was nice, id prefer gloss black but I like the handles. Maybe if it goes on sale.

picked up a new OEM horn. It's made in USA. Hopefully it's not cold tomorrow and I can install it after my rotation.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V_iGOXq7DCM&t=1423s
nice vid on diesel additives. when the change came to ultra low sulfer diesel the antiwear of fuel came down alot. whats nice it that i use the archoil which shown in the vid cuts down the wear decently in the vid plus boosts the cetane a bit. the XPD is really nice, might need to add to my list to store at home. Main reason i prefer the archoil is the long neck for the tank.

 

Serendipitously ran into this thread in the "other builds" since I was looking for something to look at not normal taco related stuff. And I have a neighbor with an '06 dually with the 6.0 who's been having electrical gremlins in his gauge cluster / interior lights / window switches. The shop he took it to said it was most definitely the cluster and charged him a hefty fee to install a Ford remanufactured cluster only to have it cut out twice in the month since he had it installed. They're replacing it under warranty, but it isn't clear if they checked all the other power and ground wires that could have been causing intermittent issues including things they might have wiggled when moving the dash to install the cluster. Do you have any ideas about where to look for potential rubbing / broken wires?

Thanks!

 

Hmm. There could be 3 potential places. If the cabs been off there are two maybes to look at. First is the main ECU area by the drivers side battery that runs into the cab. You can also follow this harness to the ficm. I don't believe it is related but it is a high voltage system (48v) with it's own relay and sub system. The truck can't run without it but always nice to check. Second is the harness that runs over the the turbo by the back of the hood. Sometimes when working on it it could break or melt from the heat. You can also check the fuses connection from the alternator to the passenger side battery. I don't think it's your problem but I'd check anyway for anything abnormal. Lastly there is under the steering wheel. Lots of fuses there and the wiring that runs around the steering column. Not that it could be related but an example is on automatics the tow/haul button most of the time fails as the wire for it rubs on the column and eventually breaks. In my short time of working on 6.0psd those are the potentials I have seen. Another consideration is if the guy has a higher voltage ficm. Some have taken the ficm up from 48v to 53v or 58v. Over time the higher voltage ficm can affect the injectors and other systems as it's higher than work it was rated for. I have observed that these clusters are t the best as they're quite a few that repair them like cat eye Chevy clusters. Some offer lifetime warranties but can be a pain. Lastly I would see where the vehicle was driven and kinda clean out the connector and add some dielectric grease. There might be some more I could potentially learn. If I do I'll post it here. On that note does he have any interior mods or something like a lift pump?

 

https://youtu.be/dWbzXLpO9Aw?si=QBoNCkF_IY2I_tsH
Older superduty but might be the same for the 05-07. Battery saver relay.

 

ARB bumper ordered from mod mafia
https://store.arbusa.com/deluxe-bumper-3436040/?

 

S&B cab mounts ordered. There is a back order on them so possibly next month they can be installed. I'm looking forward to it as these are to ride really well.
https://sbfilters.com/collections/body-mounts
https://sbfilters.com/products/body-mount-2003-2007-regext-cab

 

So the horn stopped working a couple weeks ago but I decided to just buy the OEM horn and needed to wait for warmer weather.
But first

Wort wort wort. If you know your awesome.

New OEM horn for a current gen superduty.

This fell out so off to a great start.



Seems things got a tad warm.

New set


New horns swapped to old bracket and installed. Horn now works. Hopefully I won't need to revisit it. Lol.