Anyone into R/C?

Got to test out my new Furitek python pro esc and cedar brushless motor. First thoughts, super disappointed. Slow crawl was complete shit and once I got out of the FOC range it would cog like crazy. Tried messing with settings and throttle trims in the furitek app and nothing helped. Decided to tear the entire driveline apart and put it back together piece by piece to see what was causing the issue in hopes that it wasn't the new motor/esc combo. Regreased the diffs and trans. I started by installing the motor and trans and worked my way out till the problem showed itself again. Just the motor and trans, worked fantastic. Rear axle back in and connected, still fantastic. Front axle, problem. Opened up the diff cover to see what was going on behind the scenes. Looked like it was skipping teeth/binding. Added a couple shims to the front diff pinion and now she's working like a champ. I couldn't be happier. The slow crawl is absolutely nutty. So much low speed control and when I need some punch this combos got it.

TLDR; new esc/motor combo sucked ass...till it didn't. Fixed issue and now this thing fucks

https://youtu.be/O1U3heM9XC4?feature=shared

 

Get the Mazz links so I know how long and where to bend the ones I make when my rcaddictiin links decide not to work with my setup

 

Haha! That's why I used Wild Willy in my Blackfoot redo (in Cleveland Guardians motif).

 

But 2 weeks

And that's just an estimated time frame.

What if I'm in the bathroom when inventory goes live and gets sold out like everyone says it does right away

 

Side frame 2.0

All metal links, shortened the rear, it's now 5mm longer than the front.


side frame 3.0. This one I like, it uses full stroke on the shocks and has smooth suspension movement.


Gotta print up some mounts for the ESC and the battery.
Will prolly swap out the mini servo for a micro and change the ESC to one of the FMS boards I have so many of. The one it came with has poor modulation.

 

Is this an FCX24 as far as motor/transmission, axles, and wheels go?

 

It wishes it was. This is an Easy RC POS24.
Plastic throughout, shit ESC and TX. Top heavy, twitchy, bound up suspension. It was a disappointment. Body is pretty sweet though.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/eazy-r...yvysKRTp8T5sH2RzN3xJ8ugwC1l6DT0IaAmv-EALw_wcB
With the FMS ESC and a better servo it actually behaves pretty well (body off) and is sufficiently low geared for crawling.

 

The axles and transmission, driveshafts are actually pretty tight. Very little slop in the drivetrain. Steering knuckles are tight, cvd front axles. It just needs a better platform.

 

Furitek Lizard Pro ordered since my local shop didn't have any in stock

They only had the Cedar/Python combo

 

@Kwikvette I ended up going with a nsdrc

$73 rs100 (A: champagne)

rs100 micro servo and their servo mount

 

That's probably the most popular servo around for crawlers; nothing but great feedback

I compared it to the Micro99 I got and saw the NSDRC has a bit more torque than the Micro, but they're both pretty damn fast so I'm not too worried

I'll have to link the video I ran into yesterday discussing budget-friendly vs a nicer transmitter

Didn't watch it really but if I were to summarize what I saw, I'd say it's like the difference between a nice video card and a cheaper one

Both have the same task, but one of them will render more frames per second

Think he was demonstrating that communication from TX to RX in a crawling situation

 

Little 2g servo does just fine turning them big wheels. It's quiet too.
The budget comp crawler.
Adjusted the rear links to mirror the front. Cobbled up the electronics. Modulation improved by 150%.

It's amazing how much change there is in the different upper shock mounts. I tried them all, varying results. This one gave the highest degree of articulation and the smoothest action.

At a drawback though. Shocks at an angle get hit by the tires, one decided to unthread.
Adjust the steering throw and you lose a ton of turn radius.
Breakover angle sucks too. I'd like to make it shorter, keep the height, tighten the turn radius.

If I can trim 5mm out of both ends, I'll still be longer than the front originally was by 3mm.
Another thought is to pull in the ends of the frame, and bring the shocks inboard a bit, increasing turn radius. And just wind up the shock collars a bit.
Or do all of that. It's cold out, I have nothing better to do.

 

@Kwikvette
So, this whole time I've been building my truck while adhearing to SORRCA class 2 rules. However, I believe those rules are only tailored towards the 1/10 guys. I found a 2024 RCMCCA (Radio Control Micro Crawler Competition Association) rule book that looks to be tailored for us 1/24 guys. No bumper requirements for class 2. This is all assuming that wherever I'm competing uses the same rule book. Ive attached the class 2 rules below for your viewing.

 

Ooooh that makes sense

The rules are pretty similar, but makes sense why videos of Class II don't have bumpers on them (1/24)

I'll check it out a bit later

 

I really like the nsdrc servos. I have replaced a few Hitec with them when Hitec refused to warranty a few

 

Oh man, basic as hell rules I love it!

Patiently waiting for my chassis to arrived - it just shipped finally

 

Waaaaay more basic lol. The waiting games begin! Just finished up getting my ascent dialed with the new esc/motor combo. Things unreal. No more money going towards this thing. All comp build now

 

Hell yeah!

Yeah I'm pretty bummed about my FCX18's clunkiness. I could buy a metal transmission but I too am done spending money on it (for now). Just glad I finally ordered the ESC as I just wanted to see if it was available locally first.

Really all that's left are links, wheels, shocks, TX and RX, and that's it?

 

I still need tires (thinking 63mm black labels, still undecided), motor/esc, shocks, driveshafts, and a body

 

I thought you had bought that Cedar for the new build!

Yeah I went LGRP Trail King in 64mm since I hear great things about them. I'm thinking 39mm to 43mm shocks at most.