2013 Tacoma 4x4 ECU B (Body) pin out

I have found a parasitic draw related to the ECU B fuse. My question is: Would the systems that the ECU B controls cause the draw rather than the ECU itself? I'm not finding much information on this issue on this forum or elsewhere on the internet, some noting other components found faulty. I have seen a list of systems that the ECU controls, does anybody have a pinout diagram of the ECU B where a person can check the slave systems for fault?
Please limit your responses to the question that's being asked, I'm considering signing up for a short term subscription to ALLDATA for detailed information/schematics on this issue. Do you think that is a good idea?
Thanks in advance!

 

The ECU-B Fuse doesn't feed one specific ECU (Module), it essentially feeds keep alive battery power to multiple modules.

It feeds the following:

Combination Meter (Instrument Cluster)
Occupant Classification ECU (Under Passenger Seat, Bucket Seats Only)
Steering Angle Sensor (Steering Column Behind Clockspring)
A/C Amplifier (Behind/Above Glovebox)
Rearview Mirror
Transponder Key ECU (Buried deep in the dash behind HVAC Case)
Door Control Reciever (Behind Glovebox to the left)
Body ECU (Integrated in the Interior Fuse/Relay Box)

If you need more specific location information or diagrams let me know and I'll see what I can do.

 

Thank you Dm93! I found a wiring diagram pdf that Uffda [op] had posted back in 2013 that made my understanding a little clearer. I have an electronics background but without a diagram, it's very difficult to know where to check for faults. Yes, (as you stated) the ECU B fuse serves multiple modules or circuits as noted. When I disconnect the connector to the Body ECU, the drop goes away. I will check each wire out to see if it's the Body ECU or associated circuits. I love finding solutions to problems and it keeps the blood flowing in my brain at 64! ;-)

 

Good on you for giving it a go, most people are terrified/clueless when it comes to electrical problems.

If you do find that the Body ECU is the source of the draw I would reccomend checking inputs to make sure it isn't something simple keeping it awake like a stuck door lock switch or bad door ajar switch, unfortunately the inputs have to be checked manually because the Body ECU won't talk to a scan tool on 2nd gens.

 

From the Wiring Diagrams, the circuits associated with the Body ECU are:

Combination SW (Turn, Light Control, Dimmer)
Parking Brake SW
Door Courtesy SW (Driver’s)
Door Control Receiver
Door Courtesy SW (Front Pass. Side)
Door Courtesy SW (Rear LH Upper Side)
Door Courtesy SW (Rear LH Lower Side)
Door Courtesy SW (Rear RH Upper Side)
Door Courtesy SW (Rear RH Lower Side)
Door Courtesy SW (Driver’s Side)
Power Window Master SW
Door Lock Control SW
Unlock Warning SW
Door Lock Assy. (Driver’s Side)
Door Lock Assy. (Pass. Side)

I will disconnect the switches to see if that changes the drop then check for shorts in the wiring through the connectors.
I will have to put this on hold until the outdoor temps. come back up into the 60's at least. :-D

 

No need to unhook the door ajar switches, just check and make sure the door ajar light goes out with the doors closed.