Anyone into R/C?

Looking through Injora, and it looks like you can build a complete, custom SCX24 entirely out of their parts for not that much.

 

Meus axles have 2-14T (proprietary) gears and it comes with a 2-16T for the rear for 14% underdrive.

 

I've heard good things about their ESC.

 

Axial Deadbolt
OEM chassis motor axles and esc (decased) with modified battery tray.
Samix links, samix rear diff cover, RC4WD wheels& 57mm tires, CI foams, NSDRC servo and mount Injora 39mm shocks

AMT Toyota truck
Stock chassis motor and esc(decased)
Meus iso axles, wheels and links, Injora 39 mm shocks, 64mm tires and silicone inserts, NSDRC servo.

 

I see now that I had one side of the scales on the wrong side and will need to redo this and see but either way the weights are correct even if the locations are misinformed.

 

Got my chassis, shits clean!

 

I'm trying to keep everything in the package until it's assembly time

 

I must've missed the fine print; I had to go on Injora's website because my GX470 was experiencing weird behavior.

Going forwards, it drives normal. However, it actually climbs better (and handles even easier) due to the wider track width.

When going in reverse, the front sort of raised along with the rear. Thought there was some binding but it drove fine?

I put a piece of tape on each wheel, lifted the rig, and slowly throttled only to see the front spin faster.

Yep, online it says 23% overdrive up front! It's definitely noticeable when it comes to climbing. So I guess just a heads up for the noobies like me in case your RC displays this behavior with the shocks extending/compressing while driving on a smooth surface.

Easily a fun crawler for only having upgraded axles.

 

I couldn't help it. Opened everything lol

 

My welding table is full of shenanigans atm

So definitely not opening anything yet!



Had just put my kids powerwheels together.

 

As promised some pics.

Injora SS links and driveshafts are almost necessary imo for durability, it's money well spent.

I have some injora rock lights on there (which is all the extra wires you see). They work awesome plug into the 3rd channel on the stock electronics like a charm. Bright as hell. But not needed though well worth it bang for the buck wise.

Here's the performance mods:

• Lower boat sides removed for extra clearance, no point to have them IMO.
• Battery double sided taped down to driver side boat side. (Weight forward but NOT tall, putting it above the front axle on the chassis like lots do puts weight REALLY high and too far forward which makes for a tippy vehicle).
• ESC/Receiver double sided taped down to passenger side.
• 2x 7gr wheel weights forward of ESC/Rx down low and forward to keep left n right balance close.
• Front shocks filled with 30wt (losi oil) and furthest rearward upper mount.
• Rear shocks filled with 50wt (losi oil) and 2 lil extensions made out of some aluminum to lay the shock down up top for more flex and also to get the truck to sit a lil lower statically in the rear now that weight has moved forward.
• Front bumper trimmed so it doesn't rub tires
• Body trimmed so it doesn't rub on tires

Like stated stock tires work great, but the injora ones I linked to above def grip better, give a slightly wider but not overly wide stance (~2mm wider per side), look good, and get some weight down a lil lower thanks to steel rims/headlock ring.

I have put some front brass "extra heavy" portal covers on and have done the under/over drive portal gears but TBH neither of those really did much vs the free stuff above and tires so really not needed. If you do above sans tires and just durability mods of ss links and driveshafts the thing is great and cheap. There is no need IMO to shave the upper corners of the steering servo because it "hits the chassis". It only does so under full straight compression but does not hinder ANY articulation so don't waste your time with that.

I am half tempted to try 3S for kicks n giggles but it really just works so well on 2s for it's size

 

Swapped out the 2g servo for 13g of torque. But much less speed. The little guy was faster, but struggled to stay consistent.
This improved a lot of things, steering lock is consistent now, turns wheels in a bind, has a sweet red arm, and it still clears under the hood.

I assumed I would be trimming or reprinting for clearance, but it fit better than OJ's glove.

 

@Kwikvette
Decided to put a list together of the build thus far. I'll edit as things change. Someone needs to take my wallet away. Came in right at $800

Chassis: MazzDesigns CCV3 XL
Front Axle: LGRP Super 8
Front Diff Skid: 3Flow9RC Skinny Hind Derlin
Rear Axle: LGRP SUper 8
Rear Link Riser: LGRP Billet Riser
Rear Diff Skid: 3Flow9RC Skinny Hind Black Brass
Wheel Adapters: LGRP Brass Wheel Adapters 3mm
Links: RCAddiction 155mm brass
Steering Servo: NSDRC

$73 RS100 (A: Champagne)

RS100
Servo Mount: NSDRC Aluminum Mount
Shocks: Injora 40mm Big Bore
Drive Shafts: Injora Stainless
Motor: Furitek Mini Komodo
Transmission: Furitek Micro Stellar
ESC: Furitek Lizard Pro
Wheels: Treal 4P Beadlocks
Beadlock Rings: MazzDesigns V2 D10 Dozer
Tires: LGRP Black Label 63mm
Body: YurichMicroRC Boss Truck
Hardware Kit

 

Chassis: MazzDesigns CCV3 XL
Front Axle: Meus Racing isokinetic axle
Rear Axle Gearset: 2/16T Underdrive 14%
Front Diff Skid: Stock
Rear Axle: Meus Racing isokinetic axle
Rear Link Riser: N/A
Rear Diff Skid: N/A
Wheel Adapters: N/A
Links: 828RC C-Bolt
Steering Servo: Reefs RC Micro99 brass servo
Servo Mount: Meus Racing servo mount
Shocks: Need to purchase
Drive Shafts: Injora stainless steel
Motor: Furitek Mini Komodo
Transmission: LGRP heavy duty transmission
ESC: Furitek Lizard Pro
Wheels: Injora deep dish steel wheels with brass wheel weights
Beadlock Rings: N/A
Tires: LGRP Trail King 63mm
Body: Proline Cliffhanger
Hardware Kit

 

So after telling @Deathbysnusnu I wouldn't be painting until it warms up a bit I broke that rule yesterday and ruined a cliffhanger body. Masking went great and it was prepped well. But in true don't paint in cold weather fashion it was bad. I decided since the body was so small I'd try and use the remainder of a few colors. Was going to use spazstix candy golden rootbeer backed with spazstix silver backer for candy/color changing paints.... Then I was going to lay Tamiya lame flake and black on the fender flares and bed.


Turned up the heat on the garage and put the can under hot water. Rootbeer laid down alright despite some sputtering but the Tamiya lame and black reacted with the spazstix and caused some weird swirling of the metallics in the silver and made it run with the candy rootbeer.


Needless to say I'm glad they were leftover cans and the body was deeply discounted but I am not painting again until it warms up one day

 

Quiet in here, must be turning screws...
Final color choice, for now. Maybe off-white next with a color change at the end to give it a moon roof, and number it 53 with a blue and red stripe. Redid the mount for the body, sits about 4mm higher now, locks into place better.

It's just a friction fit to the frame, and a tiny piece of Velcro under the hood.

it took a mild tumble today and the body stayed in place.

 

Waiting for parts

 

Blake Wilkey style baja bug?

 

The profile on the Z tires has never sat well with me. They have a fat bead that didn't sit right and caused the tire to bulge. Ran on the side wall quite a bit.
Before.

Printed a new ring and made it 2mm larger in dia. to fit the fat bead. I was just gonna print it thinner, and realized the inner and outer ring wouldn't seat. So tried this first.



They stand taller too!

After.