NEW 16-23 Morimoto XB Evo Headlights are here!

I had wondered if that was the case since it was only in the oncoming lane and not my lane....its going to take some getting used to then! I still prefer a nice straight line but I see the benefit, I hate blinding oncoming which is what I felt like I was doing with my old setup. I have lots of deer and other critters where I live so I'm always trying to look ahead.

 

LOVE the yellow drls! new headlights for me i guess

 

As stated above me, it’s by design. OEM led has a step down in the same spot, although I feel like the cut off isn’t as sharp

 

It does take a few trips to get used to it, but once you do, it’s really helpful!

Another change you’ll see is that there are “squirrel finders” which are the dimmer ‘blobs’ of light above the cutoff to help with street signs and other objects. If those weren’t there, you wouldn’t really have any light above the cutoff so you wouldn’t see much there either.

 

I was actually really excited to see how the dips would perform and whether or not they would be beneficial. And they are! They're definitely more apparent to the driver than a typical stepped cutoff but they are certainly more helpful for oncoming traffic. They might even be more beneficial for lifted tacomas and am anxious to see if I'll need to lower them once I lift mine here in a couple weeks. Might not need to! I could probly adjust them a tad higher now at stock height, just haven't done it. But I had my hands in a few retrofits with my lifted 1st gen and my brothers lifted truck, and with a typical stepped cutoff we had to lower them a good amount because even the step would blind oncoming drivers with the slightest incline. Already I can tell the evos unique dips are helping with that on mine and am optimistic it'll remain the same once lifted.

 

Wow.

 

It's off the 4 pin connector on the headlight, I don't have a great picture of it, but this is the type of harness you'd be looking for: https://mesocustoms.com/products/20...o-TX8cwPLSy3FrUJiOCwa2lYeswCF1sCN2gkIaao30ykS

They're 100% plug and play and function better than the OEM LED headlights while simultaneously looking about 5 times better than any factory housing. Trust me you won't be making a mistake if you go with them, I am both shocked and extremely pleased with how well these are executed.

We're a group of guys tinkering with these lights since. I've got nothing better to do with my spare time than worry about when my dumb*ss amber DRLs turn on otherwise I'll have a mallcrawler meltdown

 

Totally agreed! I thought I’d miss the standard stepped cutoff we’re accustomed to, but having that intensity just to the right of the dip (rather than centered at the slope of the stepped cutoff) is a huge benefit. My wife’s 4Runner and my F150 have prototype Evo Hybrid headlights and they’re just awesome to drive with. I’m stoked to get SC’d Evos for both of them soon.

 

Just trying to clarify, the two common issues are

1.The DRL's won't turn on using the stalk without the ignition fuse tap and
2. These lights randomly turn on while the truck is running some type of diagnostic test unless the ignition fuse tap is used?

 

#1 is correct, because we needed compatibility on any trim level, and also to ensure the welcome sequence worked (which cycles on the projectors briefly)

#2 is if EFI#3 fuse is used. We now recommend the “INJ” fuse instead, which does not randomly cycle.

 

Can it be confirmed if the tap wire is a low amp signal or is it carrying a decent draw? I would think led is low but it's a fairly thick wire and the fuse on the add a fuse provided is 20a...

I just installed them on my truck. Factory was halogen w led drl. I installed the xb a few years ago and did not use any extra wire tap and my lights functioned exactly like factory.

Now with the evo, with no tap i get no drl at all, but parking light mode and above function as normal. When i add the fuse, i get full bright drl, but its always on. Off mode or drl mode they just stay on and then parking light mode and above functions same as without the taps.

I do not want to have to run a secondary switch to turn off drl... i will be returning them over this if there isn't a way to have factory stalk functions...

 

You will not have full functionality without the fuse tap. The fuse tap is mostly for the welcome sequence, and power for the full brightness mode of the drls. It will not work without it plugged in. With it plugged in, you will have full brightness mode of the drls when the stalk is in the 'off' position (or 'auto' during daytime) as well as the welcome sequence.

If you want it off in off position, you'll need to wire the fuse tap to the drl harness (via a relay for signal wire only as fuse tap harness powers multiple functions) for it to function like the oem stalk functions, but i think you lose the full brightness mode unless its in auto and daytime. Also, (i believe) the welcome sequence will only initiate when you turn the stalk on. Or leave them selected on while the truck is parked so they fire when you start/remote start if its wired that way. I may try wiring them this way at some point to see how they function and if I like it any better. Just leave it on auto so I get that full brightness mode. But I won't have the option to turn them on with full brightness mode at night that way.
And the lights randomly turning on was due to it being plugged into the efi location. Use the Inj instead.

 

For oem stalk functions you would need to wire the fuse tap to the drl harness. See my above post, I kinda explain how that all works.

 

Which wire on the drl harness? I'm assuming you mean the factory drl plug so you're splicing a wire there...this also tells me it's only a signal? Just don't want to overload a circuit as the wires are very different sizes..does the tap also provide poeer for the Heaters? That would explain the 20 fuse and wire Guage.

Also, FWIW i do not have auto headlights. Only auto high beam. I simply want off to be off, and drl to be full bright drl.

 

Yeah the factory drl plug. I would ask @K9tacoma he was the one who wired them this way. But yeah, that's a perfectly valid question and would be a good idea to test the draw. I would think it would be fine as well. I may test this just to be safe tho.

 

Decided to bust out my clamp meter real quick, I was curious. @Mshort03
Fuse tap draw;
Drl full brightness- 1.9amps
Drl dimmed- .5amp
Low beam- 2.5amps
High beam- 3amps
Heating mode won't activate unless below 5c, but it did activate for a split second and turned back off. Was reading just under 5amp draw with that.

 

Based on this, i don't think it would be a good idea to tap the factory drl then as its obvious the tap isn't just a signal line. This brings it back to having to wire a seperate switch to toggle the tap line if you want to shut drl off fully while truck is on. Reallyy wish mori didn't do that and hopefully comes up with a better alternative to retain factory drl control. Xb did it no problem, granted they had less features...

 

There likely won’t be any changes to the DRL function. This was chosen specifically for the reasons mentioned before.

 

My drl is essentially non functional. It's just on when the truck is on when using the fuse tap. I cannot turn drl off if truck is on. Stalk position off and drl make no changes. Then parking light mode the drl goes half bright and side markers on. If I don't use the tap, then I get nothing in drl mode but parking light mode and above funtion normal.

If I were to tap the factory drl plug (even tho it already plugs into the headlight) and run that to the fuse tap wire on the headlight (not using the add a fuse) then id potentially be over loading that circuit with it powering both things, no? Other wise mori would have just done that I'd think.

Note: i do not have auto headlights. The guy earlier in thread did, and so do 2 of my friends that got them so I'm curious if that is the difference.

 

The DRL, welcome sequence, and heater are all powered through the fuse tap. To ensure compatibility and function on all trim levels, it couldn’t be done through the factory DRL circuit.