PennSilverTaco's "Perfect 5-Lug Regular Cab" Build, Aspergers, and General BS MegaThread!

If she gets another 20K out of it, I’ll be happy. Also I paid $2,417.20 to put a new transmission and rear main seal in my truck; I can’t imagine that it would cost much more than that to put a new CVT in an Altima. That’s a decent car, that I know the history of, for five grand…

 

Do a little more research but my quick hunting shows me that 2013-up are the CVT to avoid. It could be it debuted that year or perhaps something else, IDK

Aside, check the door tag on the Rav. Love the 2014 we have.

 

I’d avoid any CVT made by JATCO.

 

If Amanda buys this car for less than three grand and gets to 200K, we will both be happy. My mechanic will likely then buy it for $500-$1,000, then put a new CVT in it and flip it for a profit.

 

There was an obnoxious vibrating noise coming g from under the hood of my truck at speeds above 45 MPH; I looked under the hood last night and I believe that the culprit is the windshield washer hose…

 

The avg mileage a year is about 10k
So you are shooting for 20k miles to be happy?
That's 2 years worth of driving it.

Say you buy it for $2,500. That is $1,250 a year.
Or $105 per month.

You can't rent a car for that price.
Buy it, drive it, toss it.

Sounds reasonable to me.

 

I fixed it with a bit of redneck ingenuity, and we shall see if this does the trick…

 

And it’s not like it’s a shitbox; it’s been in a few fender benders, but it has a clean title, and everything works. It also has literally every option you could get on an Altima in 2011 except GPS navigation. My mom’s 2013 Murano has factory GPS that is damn near useless now because so much construction has taken place since it was built, and Amanda and I use our phones for GPS. Amanda doesn’t really care what kind of car she gets as long it has working A/C and get her to work. This Altima checks both of those boxes.

Another important detail is that it must have OBD2. For Toyota, this is 1995 and newer, and 1996-newer for all other manufacturers. My mechanic doesn’t like to do major work on anything OBD1 that isn’t a Volvo.

 

212K!

 

Zip-Ties to the rescue.

 

Might have better odds going to Vegas or Atlanta City rather than gambling on a Nissan CVT.

 

It's still making the weird noise, but only when I'm driving East or West, and not North or South...

 

Might be related to wind direction.

 

I feel like it might be the metal bracing on the inside of the hood...

 

Did you look for any ice buildup underneath?

 

@ColoradoTJ
@Just_A_Guy
@Lt. Dangle
@Speedytech7
@TnShooter

I found out why my hazards and dome light have been acting weird, and I’m 99% sure it has nothing to do with the trailer hitch wiring harness. The heater has been cutting out randomly, and today Amanda noticed a smell of burning plastic; I noticed it too, pulled out the glovebox, and found nothing amiss with the blower assembly.

I later pulled the HVAC control module after the heat cut out again, and found this…

 

As of right now, the heater is still working but the touching the dials the wrong way can cause it to shut off. Luckily, I paid my mechanic months ago to replace the wiring harness and the one he installed wasn’t strong enough to allow the blower to operate at full speed. He put the old one back in and said that he would not charge me to put in a replacement when he found it; I have been procrastinating because the heater and A/C haves worked fine until now…

 

And the heat still works. The burning smell is gone as long as the control module isn’t locked into place. Pushing the control module into place seems to put things in contact with each other that aren’t supposed to be in contact with each other, and shorts out the wiring harness. I am contacting my mechanic tomorrow.

 

That looks like the culprit.