NEW 16-23 Morimoto XB Evo Headlights are here!

you used the magnet mount resistors on each side also?

 

@Mshort03 @aturk @TRSAndrew
Sorry if I’m missing anyone here, or missing any information, so humor me while I get up to speed. The issue with these is that it is using the fuse tap to drive the DRL, heaters, and start-up sequence, correct? I guess I get why Morimoto did it this way for the SR trims, and I am guessing that it was just easier to make the TRD function the same way. Seems half-ass to me, but that’s just my opinion. Regardless of that opinion, that question at hand is how do we make it full-ass? Using a relay triggered by the DRL+park signal to power the lights instead of the fuse tap is kind of a work-around. The issue being you will lose the start up sequence until you turn the DRL on, and same for the heater function. But you will be able to turn off the DRL (as long as you don’t have a Canadian truck. Auto low beams or manual will both be able to turn off the DRL this way).

This can be done on the SR trims as well, but that gets a little trickier, so for the sake of simplicity, I’ll just drop a pin here to tell SR guys: still doable, but more complicated, and complicated unfortunately means more money. Though I think I could do it for $100-120 range if anyone wanted this solution. Back to the TRDs though….

I do have a few questions: I was told that Morimoto ships those with a 20A fuse for the light side of the fuse tap? Is this true? Looking at the install pics, it appears so, but sometimes it’s hard to distinguish between an orange (5A) and a yellow (20A). But given they have heaters, 20A does seem likely. Does anyone know the actual amperage pull of these?

 

Do you own a multimeter? Any good with it? I wonder if Morimoto wires these in such a way that the truck always sees the resistance, or just when the turn signal is activated. If it’s the latter, you’re gonna need to work around it…..

 

Everything you're saying is correct. And can confirm 20a fuse they provide. That's why i suggested a relay to send actual power to the tap line. I understand about no sequence or heater in off, as you need the signal for that to work...but having off be off then drl and above function as normal seems the most "full-assed" way to do it. U get full bright drl and ability to turn off. No sequence unless you are in atleast drl when parked, which i (and id assume most) atleast am. It's the closest way to get full functionality of both the lights and oem stalk positions despite this oversight. I understand why they did it...but damn. Not even a notice to customers esp when their previous gen worked 100% oem.

 

All excellent points, 20a fuse for the fuse tap, someone measured and it was in the 5a range for the heater when running. Only thing I'll add is that the startup sequence on the V2s would only start when the DRLs came on as well, which is when you put the truck in gear, so that part functions the same as the previous version. (this I care a lot less about, I was more after the DRL control). I'm a TRD halogen model fyi

Here's the amp draw data:

 

Thanks for chiming in @Puppypunter

I know just speaking for myself, that my truck usually has the DRL's turned on full time via the stalk. I would guess in this case I would still get startup sequence right when the truck starts up. Heater would work as long as the DRL's are on via the stalk. Just mainly want close to OEM functionality like @Mshort03 does. I think Marty covered everything else for you. Get to crimping

 

@aturk youd still get the heater in drl and continue into parking and every other mode since there would be a pos trigger from drl AND parking. Full oem function and light function. @Puppypunter i know of 5 sets so far that will be pre sold for you if you make this.

 

Funny how many of us nearly have the same exact truck in this thread, and want the same OEM functions. But we also want nice fancy headlights with decent output

 

Well, I got the supercharger installed on passenger side. Just did the passenger side in hopes I can get some good comparison shots between the two when it gets dark. Just too cold to sit out there and mess with installing and setting up a camera to take before/after pics with both..

For now I just wanted to share some install tips, since this was only my second time removing the front end. When I initially installed the evos, I removed the grille and bumper. This time I was just going to loosen the bumper to access the side bolt of assembly behind bumper and remove assembly. All was going well and was MUCH quicker/easier doing it that way. Until I went to slide the headlight out/away, and my hand slipped, annnnd I SCRATCHED THE DANGED LENS!!! ARGH!!! So pissed I did that. Sigh..




So I stopped and placed the headlight back in place. Kicked myself a few times. Then looked inside to see if I could manage to access the driver without having to remove the whole assembly. There was a ton of room after removing the radiator air deflector (very easy to remove) to get a stubby screwdriver (even a regular screwdriver fits but stubby is recommended) in there and remove the screws. Took a little fenagling and awkward body twisting to get to the connectors without yanking or putting stress on the wires, but it was doable. Installing the new driver and popping the connectors in was a little easier.. Definitely recommend doing it this way and not removing the bumper, or messing with removing the assemblies and risk scratching them like I did. And for anyone installing the Evo's for the 1st time, take care you don't scratch them on that fender corner. Ugh..

Anyways, here's a few pics of the access area after the air deflector is removed. Will follow up after it gets darker and I get some output shots.

 

Yea..with this many of us this close to release youd almost think they would have thought of this.....

I do like morimoto as a whole. I reccomend them to everyone. I have their pods and love those too. Their xb were great headlights and overall the evo are much nice by far.. Just this one thing. But...seems like it will be taken care of soon

 

I put tape on my oem leds when installing. Dropping the front bumper is the way to go when installing headlights.

 

Great info, thank you! So, according to @NightProwler we might be looking at about 7A of draw (5A heater + 1.9A DRL)? Given a 20A fuse, I suspect that initial 5A on the heater goes up quite a bit. The main reason I ask about this is to me it is somewhat worrisome that they would be adding an additional >12A to a 10A circuit (I am assuming over 12A since they used a 20A fuse. 12A would be the highest I'd go on a 15A fuse constantly, so I suspect either they draw more than that, or Morimoto gets 20A fuses real cheap or something...). Using a fuse tap isn't my preferred way to do much if it can be avoided, so I am biased anyway. But adding even 7A to a circuit rated for 10A seems like a bit much. They issue isn't the 10A fuse, its the wiring that is designed to carry 10A to that INJ fuse. The wire is seized for the circuit, and manufacturers don't leave much wiggle room, much less 170-300% for sure. All that being said, if I were to build something for this, I would probably do it one of a couple ways, so let me know which one seems the most desirable:

Option A) The "super clean" look. I could rebuild the entire plug for the drivers side to incorporate the taps on the same plug that the headlight is using. Real clean that way, but a lot of added cost. It would take 7 connectors (6 of which I know, I'd need help identifying the one that goes to the resistor, as well as the wiring break out on that 12 position Molex that goes to the headlight).

Option B) Adding just a M/F to the one plug the has the DRL (it also has park, so only need the one plug). A lot cheaper since it is only one plug.

Both Option A and B would trigger a relay. I would make the relay so it could be fed straight off the battery, or it could use the provided fuse tap. I would recommend going to the battery with it to avoid the issue I wrote about earlier, but if Morimoto is comfortable with it, I guess it's the end users call.

Let me price up option B as I suspect it might be the most popular option...

@aturk @Mshort03 let me know what you think.
@MGMDesertTaco are you in Denver? Or am I thinking of someone else? If anyone does get a set of these in the Denver area, I would love to do a little probing on them the see how resistors are integrated.

 

I think I see the issue now. If you look at the install instructions, page 20, you'll see this:

This doesn't address the AUTO feature, but having your truck in AUTO during the day is the same as having the stalk set to DRL. If you have AUTO headlights and you have the stock stereo, you should be able to go into the settings and disable the DRL (assuming you don't have a Canadian truck) to take care of this. If you do have a Canadian truck, I have a $200 harness I will sell you to fix the issue This should take care of the issue in both AUTO and with the parking lights on. Please report back and let me know? Also, let me know if you need help finding that DRL setting.

 

AZ, but I'm getting my butt outta here before summer.

I'm really interested to see what you can fab up for these.

 

That 5amps was combined with headlights on, so drls(in dim mode) with headlights on. And it was only for a split second as I believe the heater was not fully activating because it wasn't below 41°. Didn't get cold enough to test last night. Might tonight. I'll also test it tomorrow with both supercharged drivers once I get the second one in. Bout to go out and try to take some more output shots. Proving difficult to capture the difference on camera/photos. Not an expert by any means. But so far, looks like (rough guess) is they're about that claimed 30% brighter. I do have a lux meter, somewhere. Haven't really used it yet. I may try that too. I'm sure there's data out there already on all this tho.

 

Lesson learned for sure. Lol. I was confident in my ability to take great care with them when removing but alas, shit happens. I actually tried to slide them out of the bottom clip this time instead of pulling it out, and that was my mistake. Should've pulled them straight out like I did the first time. Oh well. Maybe i can get them to buff that scratch out when I get around to getting her in for a full ceramic coating.

 

I appreciate the data I'm not sure where the thermal sensor is, but you can trick it with compressed air.

 

ha I was thinking that same thing. or an ice cube. or somethin. But no, its already nearly there. reading 42 rn. got a hard freeze warning. Low of 26 it says. Should be good.. Gonna freeze my balls off here in a bit tho. lol. I'm a desert rat and I hate the cold. Doin it for you guys tho!

Edit: oh wait, I totally forgot I have 1 dot driver and 1 supercharged driver in atm. Ugh. I guess I'll have to install the other driver when I get back from photos, for a better test result.. Dangit.

 

It’s the metal probe off the back of the housing

 

I think option b is all that's needed. Similar to a raptor light harness that taps just the parking light signal but yours would get both. This is what I was talking about with Tony since its obviously not a good idea to have those 2 lines carry the load...i was very surprised by the 20a over a 10a myself....relay connected to battery and cut the provided fuse tap off to wire directly to the relay. I also am curious if anyone can confirm the same pin layout on a 21 4r...i got a list of buddies that all want this