NEW 16-23 Morimoto XB Evo Headlights are here!

Drl setting does not change. It used to with my oem headlights and you could turn them off. They cannot be turned off via that setting anymore, probly because they're hardwired to the inj fuse. Also, auto on mine (during the day) the drls are full bright, only at night when the headlights come on, they dim. Drl mode on stalk they dim(as well as turning the rear running lights on).

 

I got both superchargers in and did another amperage draw test. Left side was much easier to get to and was able to just reach down and access the driver from underneath(without removing grille or anything). Still took some fenagling tho. There's two connectors in the drivers, one white and one black. White came out pretty easily. The black ones tho are really in there. I had to use a screwdriver to get it started and loose to pull it out..

Also, it was proving difficult to capture the differences in brightness between the dot driver and supercharged driver on photos. I could've tried messing with manual mode with my phone camera and tried to get a bit more accuracy, but im not an expert at that and was trying to be quick because it was freakin cold.. ha. I'll have to sort through the photos tomorrow tho and see if there's any good ones. Too tired right now.
Here's a vid of the amperage draw with the supercharged drivers installed @Puppypunter
https://youtu.be/WcZUMTas7N8?si=Axjm53fRSTQFbd2a

 

Yes.

 

Cant believe they would add-a-fuse a 10a circuit with a load that draws 10a. They absolutely should have included a relay harness that's wild. Thanks for getting that info!

 

You're a genius! I saw that in the instructions and was thinking it was just the setting on the column and not in the vehicle settings. Turning off the DRL settings in the vehicle settings resolved the problem with hyper flash.

 

I was able to turn mine off in the settings.

 

Yeah, it won’t make a difference for the XBs DRL, that was just a solution to fix the hyperflash on the SRs.

 

The instructions need to be amended I think. I don’t know what Morimoto will do to address Canadian trucks, or if the DRL can be disabled with an aftermarket stereo.

 

I don’t think the pin out is the same, but maybe @caribe makaira would know what it is for the 21 4Runner?
I don’t know much about the 4R unfortunately. But if there is a clean DRL and parking signal, it would be easy enough to do for it as well. And as far as the fuse tap, I think I have a pretty clean solution there, should be able to keep it all plug and play. Is there anyway you could tell what gauge wire they used on that? The AMP connectors they use can support 14g, so that is what I planned on using.

 

fuse is rated for the wiring after the fuse not before it. wiring before it is always rated to handle more. lng

hoping thats not an issue cause i have canadian spec truck and no longer have stock radio. still no word on when headlights will ship tho

 

Agreed. We will have this updated today.

 

The wiring before the fuse is the same size as after the fuse on most of the slots. I haven’t verified this on that particular slot, but I doubt it would be different. Toyota (or anyone) doesn’t tend to use larger wire than they need to. So a 10A load is still 10A on both sides of that fuse usually. Even if it was the case that it was larger, let’s say the whole circuit is rated for 10A at 10ft. That would only require a 14g wire for the whole circuit, regardless of where the fuse is located in it. Upping that load to 25A would require a 10g wire for the same length without changing voltage drop. Upping that to 30A would change to an 8g wire. While I do admit it is speculation on my part, I highly doubt that Toyota upsized it that much. So let’s assume that they did go to a 12g (we are also assuming they would have used a 14g to begin with here, which is doubtful. The actual draw on that fuse is probably around 7A, so I’m guessing 16g would be more likely in our scenario, but let’s stick with the 14g assumption). That 12g is going to work, but will see an additional voltage drop around 3%. Not huge, but on a constant resistive load, it can start to heat up (as voltages drops, amps go up and all that…). I know I can be worried about that stuff too much, but I am making a lot of assumptions there and trying to give the benefit of the doubt. Realistically, I would put my money on the 16g scenario, which means that voltage drop would be an additional 7-8%, which can start to get a little worrisome to me. But Morimoto has more to lose than me for sure, so I’m sure they though about this….

But it’s still a good lesson in why I don’t like fuse taps beyond driving an amp or two. If you’re going bigger, I’d use it to trigger a relay. Of course this is how a guy ends up with almost 100 relays in his truck

As to it being an issue with Canadian trucks or not having the stock stereo, don’t worry about that if you have a TRD trim. This is only a potential issue with SR/SR5/trail edition trucks that have combined DRL and turn signals. Without being able to test myself, but with a lot of experience dealing with hyperflash on the SR trims, I am guessing the XBs don’t like that constant signal of the DRL on that turn signal wire. The TRD trims won’t have this, even in Canada.

 

Using my eyecrometer, it appears to be 14g. Also, there is a 1p connector about a foot off of the fuse tap. So the fuse tap can be unplugged then have a 1p connector off relay so its still full plug and play.

I also could be interested in just the break out harness as an option and not have you provide relay...i currently have it set up with a relay i just want the different triggers. I am a mechanic by trade, and was going to build the harness myself but sourcing all the connectors and such for 1 harness seemed not worth it to me. So, that's why I'm seeking your assistance just figure this option could reduce workload on your end for those who wish to just get the breakout portion. If you prefer to do the whole thing thats fine too, just putting it out there.

 

Add fuse is parallel to selected fuse slot, not fusing downstream to selected 10A wire. IN is from stem stamped circuit pattern in block, it handle assigned 10A original fuse and parallel added 20A fuse plenty ample safely.
it's stem off parallel from much thicker stamped circuit line, not wires.

What limits 10A is downstream, OUT to INJ line, add fuse has nothing to do with this line.

 

Good to know. I figured you guys had thought of that. Good to know how that fuse box is assembled too.

 

The breakout option is easy enough. I’ll make a few and maybe prototype a full set up. Sounds like you would be a good alpha tester if you’re interested? Free parts . Shoot me a PM with an address, and I’ll get a couple made up and sent your way.

 

Pm sent!

 

With my Pioneer, the datalink maestro still offers full customization of the factory configuration settings for lighting and etc - just slow af. I cannot say if yours will differ being in Canada. Do you have a DRL fuse you can pull as a test?

Also puppy, that harness sounds like something I'd be interested in as soon as mine ship. Got confirmation that my Gen2's will be warrantied, so I'm waiting on confirmation that the new style will be the replacement.

 

Good to know. I have a Pioneer with Maestro as well, but on my 2019 the only thing I could change was the color around the center gauges display. So I’ve honestly never dug into it since I changed head units.
And if anyone needs it, here is how to disable the DRL (at least on a 2020. My coworkers is the only one I’ve done this on, and his is an SR as well, so other trims might vary?)

Main Menu>Set Up

Engine App Suite>

Vehicle>

Vehicle Customization>

Light Settings>

Daytime Running Lights> ON/OFF

 

damn did not expect these today. didnt even get a notification that they shipped