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LR UCA install help

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by KMADA, Apr 15, 2011.

  1. Apr 15, 2011 at 12:14 PM
    #1
    KMADA

    KMADA [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I read the sticky on how to do the install, but i was just wondering if there is any easier way to remove the big bolt holding the UCA? i hear that is the hardest part..
     
  2. Apr 15, 2011 at 12:15 PM
    #2
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    Cut it off at the head, and run a new bolt in from the back.
     
  3. Apr 15, 2011 at 1:09 PM
    #3
    KMADA

    KMADA [OP] Well-Known Member

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    i heard that was the easiest way, but $20 a bolt doesnt look worth it. i guess i will just use some elbow grease and take my time on it. should i go from the hood and bend the fender a little?
     
  4. Apr 15, 2011 at 1:10 PM
    #4
    RelentlessFab

    RelentlessFab Eric @Relentless Fab Vendor

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    I just bent the inner fender a tad when I installed mine and reused the bolt. Wasnt that bad for me to do, just requires a little prying/pounding
     
  5. Apr 15, 2011 at 1:24 PM
    #5
    silver taco

    silver taco Well-Known Member

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    Icon 2.5 ext travel, Camburg 1.25" uca's, All-pro leafs, Icon 2.5" rear shocks, LR jounce front and back, breather mod, KR Fab rear bumper, Kenwood 2m radio, All-Pro sliders, Front bumper by Surfinferno (Dylan), Glassworks fenders, 4:56 gears, gusseted spindles and coil buckets
    It was a pita for me. Just a lot of bending then a 1/4" x 6" long extension to drift it out.
     
  6. Apr 15, 2011 at 1:25 PM
    #6
    silver taco

    silver taco Well-Known Member

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    Driverside is hardest so I reccomend doing that side first.
     
  7. Apr 15, 2011 at 1:26 PM
    #7
    Valley Viking

    Valley Viking Well-Known Member

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    OME 885 Coils, OME Dakar Rear Leafs, OME NitroCharger Shocks, LR UCA's, AFE ProDry Air Filter, Scanguage, Wet Okole Seat Covers
    I posted this when I did my install a month and half ago.

    Installed my LR UCA's yesterday. Piece of cake, this was way easier than I feared it might be. I cut the head of the old bolt off and slid the remainder of the bolt out towards the rear. The bolts are mild steel and cut like butter. There are a few brake lines that you need to strong arm over with your hand to get the last of the old bolt out and to get the new bolt started on the drivers side of the truck, but other than that the old bolts slid right out and the new ones slid right in with no effort. Took about 20 minutes per side.

    New bolts from Toyota ended up costing me $12 each. It took the dealer a couple of trys to get the right ones. Installing new bolts is the only way to go. Trying to slid the old bolt out toward the front in one piece with the inner fender in the way would have been a huge pain in the ass if not impossible.
     
  8. Apr 15, 2011 at 2:23 PM
    #8
    Joehs

    Joehs Well-Known Member

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    I did two sets ( Sooner02R1 did all the work :p) and we pulled them out through the engine bay.

    One minor hangup on two trucks, but it was alot smoother than I thought it would go.

    Just bent back the firewall alittle bit and it was smooth sailing.
     
  9. Apr 15, 2011 at 2:29 PM
    #9
    ColtsTRD

    ColtsTRD Well-Known Member

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    me too
     
  10. Apr 15, 2011 at 8:31 PM
    #10
    Fabulous

    Fabulous Well-Known Member

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    I installed mine last weekend, and it was easy. I was going to cut the bolt out, but when I got to it I just bent the sheet metal back with a cloth and a set of vise grips. It didn't scratch the paint or anything. Just pull the battery, and unclip the two sets of wires clipped to the inside of the fenders. When that is done you can just tap the bolt out, and grab it in the hood. Then just install them back in the same way, and bent the sheet metal back...easy peasy.
     
  11. Apr 15, 2011 at 8:34 PM
    #11
    Krazie Sj

    Krazie Sj Resident Jackass

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    I did mine too. I don't know why you guys were having such issues with the lines. I just unclipped them from the fender pushed them out of the way, took the bolt out, installed the new one and clipped the lines back in.
     
  12. Apr 15, 2011 at 8:41 PM
    #12
    Fabulous

    Fabulous Well-Known Member

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    True that...me too.
     
  13. Apr 15, 2011 at 8:51 PM
    #13
    Krazie Sj

    Krazie Sj Resident Jackass

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  14. Apr 15, 2011 at 8:55 PM
    #14
    OZ-T

    OZ-T You are going backwards

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    I don't think the lines are the problem , the fender looks to be in the way of the UCA bolt , at least on my 09
     
  15. Apr 15, 2011 at 9:02 PM
    #15
    Krazie Sj

    Krazie Sj Resident Jackass

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    Oh it is. Pair of vice grips and that puppy pulls round out of the way. I actually split the fender because it wouldn't move. Eh...it's not load bearing.

    But with the fender in the way, the fuel lines and coolant lines run along the very bottom that you need to bend out of the way.
     
  16. Apr 15, 2011 at 9:05 PM
    #16
    OZ-T

    OZ-T You are going backwards

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    Gotcha
     
  17. Apr 15, 2011 at 9:06 PM
    #17
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    DO NOT bend the fule lines!!!!!

    They are close, but the bolt can be slid by them.
     
  18. Apr 15, 2011 at 9:10 PM
    #18
    Krazie Sj

    Krazie Sj Resident Jackass

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    Yeah sorry I should have clarified. Unclip the plastic connectors that attach the fuel lines to the fender. A pair of needle nose pliers folds the barbs in and you just push it out with your finger. Bend the fender where you need it, install. Bend back. Reclip.
     
  19. Apr 15, 2011 at 9:12 PM
    #19
    OZ-T

    OZ-T You are going backwards

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    Thanks guys , don't worry me and my mechanic friend are installing my lift on Tuesday , he won't let me do anything stupid .
     
  20. Apr 15, 2011 at 9:13 PM
    #20
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    Yeah, but Krazie might.....
     

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