Warn CE M80000, is this winch worth rebuilding?

Looks great. I like the RED instead of black.

I got the M8000 also, hasn't fail me yet. Only used it a few time since new (2010 version).

 

I tested the relays with a volt meter when the box was on the truck and they tested good, if I recall correctly... That was probably 2 years ago... Where does the time go?

 

You sir, are correct about the relays cutting off the voltage. I'm just curious about, why all the advanced corrosion... I guess the box could have been under water too but it doesn't show the same corrosion...

 

Looks great!! I'm not planning on painting mine, although maybe I should. I was thinking about painting the inside of the motor to help prevent future corrosion.

 

We have an assembled motor! She spins FINE!! I am pretty optimistic it will run. I don't have a battery to test it with and we have 4" of snow on the ground and it's 10 degrees out, or I would hook it up to the truck. I have a battery charger but it's too smart to allow me to pump go juice when it's not connected to a battery. I will update after I can test it.

 

You can just hold the wires to the terminal of the battery in your truck. That's how I tested mine. Pretty quick and easy.

https://youtu.be/F5VNIKaFJYw?si=eiB6sqArNkFi-7dl

 

I powder coated most of it, except for the motor housing. I couldn't bake that at 450° without damaging it, so that got spray painted.

 

I think your original theory is correct in that the corrosion you have in the motor came from the inside- trapped moisture.

 

Very cool. Can't wait to see how it all turns out.

 

So... I tested the winch motor and I got nothing. No sounds no movement no nothing. I even got out the voltmeter to be sure my jumper cables and connections were good. I'm not sure why it wouldn't work.

I hooked the negative to the bottom connector labeled - below. Then I supplied constant positive 12v (it was actually 11. Something) to the top right connector labeled + below. Then using a screwdriver I alternated connecting to each of the two left connectors marked + with the "or" below. Am I missing something?



I still believe this should work. I wonder if the problem could be the connection between the can and the end cap (part that holds the brushes).

Any thoughts?

 

So you spent all this time on this without ringing out the windings? Throw that thing in the trash

 

What is, "ringing out the windings"?

All of the copper looked great.

I don't know what I'm doing!!! Just stabs in the dark!

 

You need to check the impedance of the windings, and make sure you have continuity. Obviously you don’t have a dead short on the windings because really bad things would have happened when you applied unfused power to them. So it’s probably open. Take a multimeter between two of the leads and see what the impedance is. It should be a number usually between 2 and 40 ohms. Anything really high, open or 0 would be bad. It looks to me like where the windings attach to the lugs would be the culprit.

 

Measured where? Across the + and - terminals on the outside of the motor or directly on the communicator? If on the communicator how do I know which pads to measure between?

Thanks for your input.

 

Should be able to just go across the power leads + -

 

Thanks, I'll try that when I get home. I bet it will be 0 due to the performance (lack of performance) of the motor when current is applied.

That's why I'm wondering about the connection between the bell and the can.

It may be more likely, as you say, the winding to comm interface. That was pretty corroded before I cleaned it...

 

@Lawfarin is not wrong in his assessment of measuring the windings, but your unit is assembled at this point - a few more things to look at first.

How were the sparks when connecting your jumper cables? From what I took of your description, your connections are all wrong. I don't know for sure, but it might be possible to do damage to the brushes if 12VDC was connected directly to the "A".

The lone electrical stud closest to the end of the motor cap is the Armature; look for the "A" stamp on the motor case. The other two should be labeled F1 and F2. For testing purposes, it doesn't matter which is which between F1 & F2, they only affect direction.

The proper connections are as follows: The (-) on the bottom of the motor goes to negative on the battery. Make sure you do not use too long of a bolt connecting this as I think one could put a bolt through and into the parts that move. Thus, it would not rotate at all.

The F1 and F2 are for the positive, but only one at a time, with the remaining F1 or F2 connected directly to "A", the armature. Use #2AWG cables or better. Your 11 Volt battery will do fine for testing.

So, try these:
1) Positive cable from battery to F1, a short jumper between F2 to A and the "-" on bottom of motor to the negative battery terminal - motor will turn in one direction.

2) Positive cable from battery to F2, a short jumper between F1 to A and the "-" on bottom of motor to the negative battery terminal - motor will turn in the other direction.

Review the YouTube video in Post #26 for a visual.

If these fail, then you will have to take it back apart and do some measuring with a GOOD Ohm meter.

Please tell us what ohm meter you have available. The ohm readings will be very low in the single digit range, OR so I believe. I can measure my fully assembled and working M8000 this afternoon.

 

Well I'll be damned. I was doing it wrong. I was doing it from memory... I'll give it another shot after measuring the motor with an ohm meter.

 

I get continuity between all 3 posts and the can.

 

You should get continuity between F1 and F2, but not between F1 or F2 and ground "-".
Should also have continuity between A and ground.

Anything else and something is wrong.