About to burn this truck. Someone help me please!

Brakes - Maybe in replacing the calipers you switched sides and have them upside down causing air to be stuck in the system, seems unlikely but worth mentioning. Is your tacoma a TRD Sport or OR? OR has a complex abs system requiring a scan tool to bleed.
Grinding - recommend paying a shop (offroad specific shop may be better) to drive the vehicle up on the lift so they can determine what area and parr is causing the noise, yes I know the suspension won't be at ride height but hopefully the grinding will still be there so you don't have to throw more money/parts at it.

 

I’ll suggest for brakes that maybe the master cylinder has failed. Is it original to the truck? I don’t see that in your list of replaced items.

could the grinding be the rear drum shoes? Possibly something went wrong during reassembly…

Or perhaps a frozen/failed e-brake cable? Does the right rear drum get hot to the touch or noticeably more than the left? Easy to check on a hill if the e-brake is grabbing or not when not engaged. Not sure if you have AT or MT…

 

What side is grinding? Pull the drum off and post a pick of your springs. I would bet the bottom spring is wrong.

 

I had a grind like that I couldn't find until i jacked up the whole rig in the garage and got all 4 wheels spinning about 20mph.

Mine ended up being the driveshaft center bearing. That's likely not your issue since driveline is new, but it's one way to narrow it down.

Be VERY careful though and have someone in the cab ready to hit the brakes.

 

All these problems sound brake related. Once you've gotten a good bleed with the methods outlined in previous posts, inspect your drums, e-brake and e-brake cable. To get a better bleed, you might even try vacuum bleeding and back-bleeding techniques just to move trapped air in the system somewhere else.

After that, I'd be inclined to pull the drums and inspect that something didn't get moved/changed in the drum assembly when you serviced the rear bearings. Lotta little spring loaded parts in there that can create lots of noise if they're not installed and adjusted properly, including the rear brake shoes, e-brake parts, etc. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

This is off topic, but I think about this every time someone asks some type of technical question so I will say it now. The depth of knowledge of the members of this forum and their willingness to help and share it with others is absolutely amazing and makes me think there may be hope for mankind.

 

My 07 self bled didn't the 09 do as well>

 

There is nothing at all. I can bleed them in my shop, and the pedals will be so damn tight it makes my legs quiver and I have big legs, but the moment I drive it 500 yards down the road the pedal goes soft and I can barely stop at all.

 

Online forums are the only thing that truly give me hope for mankind.

 

The rear drum shoes will “self adjust” but I’ve never heard of a self bleeding set of brakes. That would suggest the bleeders open and close themselves which isn’t possible, unless I’m missing something here.

 

Additional possibility that the brake booster has failed?

 

Failed brake booster = no power assist with brake pedal so its hard to push.

 

Keep us posted…

 

In some vehicles when the brake system is all downhill from the master cyl the air will work it's way back up to the master's reservoir over time and eventually get replaced by fluid, not very common on a autos but it's not unusual on a motorcycle.

Sounds like the OP has a bad mastercyl.

 

Ok Group,

I appreciate the support. I went back to the drawing board. I cannot believe I was so defeated over two simple issues.

Issue one: The brakes.

I assumed with front discs, even if the rear drums are not all the way set, I should have sufficient stopping power to the front 2, which is already most of the brake bias here. I was wrong. Since brake fluid doesn't expand, and doesn't stretch, I had one large mistake. The rear drum shoes were all the way open and still not making contact with the rear drum, therefore the pressure in the system was far too low, and the pressure in the front was not adequate enough to stop the vehicle, because it had expanded based on total system pressure, and it was still not enough. I re-adjusted the rear shoes, and boom, This thing now comes to a four wheel screeching halt.

The screeching noise from the rear wheel area. The drum plate has a inner lip, the bottom, beneath the hub assembly has a bend in it, I straightened it out the best i could, and left it be. It was bend badly and idk how that happened because the noise started randomly one day. Im going to let that thin lip wear down, and it should eventually quit making noise. I was ready to burn this truck. I would replace the drum backing, but I just had the axle shafts out, and don't want to pull them again.

 

Thanks for the update. Sometimes these kinda things get solved and nobody knows.

 

Why is it that it’s always the god damm rear drum breaks that have the issues.

Specifically the self adjusting star thingy component.

 

Usually because the term "Beat the brakes off it" is a real thing.

 

Glad you got it figured out!!!!

 

So actually I am not sure how this even happened. On the back plate for the drum, the part pressed into the axle shaft, there is a little lip, and it is very thin, but its also steel, and goes 7/8ths of the way around except right at the bottom. Somehow it came off, and is just dragging against the inside of the drum, and it refuses to break off or wear down. I'm going to buy a really small Dremel and get at it this weekend. The rotors need turned too, that's the last thing on my agenda.