Tacoma 16v

So, I have a 2017 SR 2.7L Tacoma. I do audio, currently my electrical consists of a 300AMP Alt (GM Regulator), RetroPRO56 Lithium, Big 3, and batt delete. I am wanting to move to Cmaxx batteries which can go from 14.8-16V. I am wondering if Tacoma electronics can handle that 16V Signal, will it blow up my ECU, lights or any other components??

Thank you.

 

I wouldn’t recommend it, while I don’t have any experience with Tacoma and high voltages, other vehicles I’ve seen fried electronics, coil packs, etc

I’m assuming charge voltage would also be higher than 16v, more like 18v. That is going to shorten everything’s lifespan, even bulbs

 

@Tacomabullrider Maybe there is help here: https://www.tacomaworld.com/forums/audio-video.12/

 

Tacomas are delicate, they aren’t like the old carbureted models from the 1900’s. I miss those days

 

Many audio amps aren't even officially rated above 15v.

I'd say it's a terribly risky thing to do for minimal gain.

Just call up your nearest Toyota dealer and ask them what a BCM replacement would cost.

 

Can you supply info on that 300 Amp Alternator? How did you handle the LIN control from the Engine ECU?
Thanks.

 

Tacoma modules shut down around 16v, you can't damage them with it, but they will just stop responding until it stops.

 

I had to change the regulator on the alt to charge higher than stock voltage, it charges 14.8 or so now when fully charging. idls 13.3-13.6

 

so it would be around 14.8-16V max

 

The amps i’m running can do 16v like Cmaxx batteries, the truck is not a regular tacoma, got 7k amps in there i’m just worried about my truck yk

 

You will need a tune in order to make the alternator output the higher voltage.

 

Max is max, it’s not variable. Lol

How do you plan to charge a battery with lower voltage from the alternator than the battery?

 

Actually, I didn’t tune. BrandX makes a GM4PIN Regulator that can swap into the Alt, just have to run the wires yourself but I charge higher without a tune. I’m just wondering if my Tacomas electrical could handle a 15-16v

 

What do you mean? If you’re asking how I’m going to reach the higher voltage, I’m adding diodes, I have a 4Pin Regulator that’s swapped into the alt

 

That's interesting, didn't know that. I only found out they are low from the factory because when I got a tune, they asked if I wanted the AGM battery voltage bump with the tune.

 

Is there a possibility for a dual alternator setup? maybe have one dedicated for the amps with the 16v regulator to keep the audio system separate from the vehicle electronics.

People run the AGM tune to get 14.4V, so another 1.6v to get 16v total may or may not fry some of the boards. Time to find out!

 

Yeah it took a LOT of research to find out I could just swap regulator, saved few 100$’s too!

 

What I was trying to ask for was: Who makes the 300A alternator and a possible part number?

I see in other posts the regulator is a GM part. Does it self-regulate somehow or just what tells it to charge at specific voltages, until when?

Did you have to supply some electrical connection (dummy load?) to the now unused LIN wire? Was there any code generation when left unterminated. Thus, the Engine ECU could not communicate with the Alternator.

I am aware of a Toyota alternator of 180 Amps (27060-0P460) and a DC Power alternator of 270 Amps (built to order), but no 300 Amp alternator to fit our 3rd gens.